At its heart stands the 12th-century Sé Cathedral, but dig beneath the surface and you’ll find Viseu’s story runs even deeper, with archaeological finds showing the area was settled long before Roman times. Today, it remains an authentic and ungentrified Portuguese city where you can stroll through lush green spaces, sip local Dão wines, and taste regional dishes in family-run taverns.

I’ve visited a couple of times and recently spent just over a day exploring and eating my way through the city. Here’s how to spend 24 hours in Viseu, with everything I genuinely recommend seeing, doing and tasting.

How to pronounce Viseu: Don’t be the tourist yelling VEE-ZOO! It’s more like three syllables – veh-ZEE-ew. Now say it in a fast mumble. Unless there’s an accent, Portuguese words put the emphasis on the second-last vowel.

Breakfast – eat a viriato

Every ancient city has its stories and legends, and Viseu has Viriato, a legendary warrior from the 2nd century BC. Naturally, there’s a sweet named after this mythical hero. It’s essentially a V-shaped pão de deus with egg-cream layers – thin layers of brioche dough layered with that egg yolk cream and topped with a sweet coconut crust.

You can try the original, invented in 1995 at Confeitaria do Amaral. I got mine at Rustica Sourdough Bakery, where I picked up a loaf of slow-fermented bread as well and took it to chill by a fountain.

Morning – visit the mammoth cathedral & Museu Nacional Grão Vasco

Kick off this Viseu itinerary at the top of the hill in Cathedral Square (Largo da Sé Catedral de Viseu), where you’ll find the imposing Viseu Cathedral sitting opposite the beautiful Igreja da Misericórdia church. This is the heart of Viseu, a city with more than 2,500 years of history.

Erected during the reign of the first king of Portugal, King Afonso Henriques (1139-1185), the mammoth stone cathedral is a blend of Manueline, Renaissance and Mannerist architecture. Step inside for a quick look around the dark and moody interior and the lower level of the cloisters. Don’t miss the 18th-century choir stalls, made from Brazilian jacaranda wood, or the painted azulejos that line the cloister, telling stories of the life of Viseu’s patron saint, São Teotónio. For a small entry fee, you can visit the cathedral’s Treasures Museum (filled with sacred art and religious artefacts), which also gives you access to the Balcony of the Canons.

Across the square sits another huge church, the Igreja da Misericórdia. First built in the 16th century, an 18th-century renovation has given it a more Rococo and Neoclassical style, including some shiny gilded interiors – though I found it fairly restrained and minimalist within. There’s a little paid museum as part of this church too.

If you’re going to spend time exploring a museum, the Museu Nacional Grão Vasco is one of the most important in the country. What’s the drawcard? A number of ginormous paintings by 16th-century Portuguese painter Vasco Fernandes, better known as Grão Vasco, who was born in Viseu. The museum was founded in 1916, and within you’ll also find religious paintings, 19th-century oil landscapes and portraits, archeological finds, porcelain, sculptures and temporary exhibits.

Tip: Just behind the cathedral, dwarfed by the imposing walls, is A Latoaria – the artisan workshop of the last tinsmith of Viseu. Now in his 90s, Senhor António Carvalho has been working for more than 65 years, shaping metal into funnels, pitchers, watering cans, oil cans and his signature – oil lamps. Well worth a look! Bring cash.

Read next… Portuguese artisans: 11 traditional crafts from the Alentejo

Lunch – Restaurante Porta 

Whenever I travel across Portugal, I always look for restaurants with local provenance, and so, this led me to Restaurante Porta. I was suspicious of the ace location, right next to the cathedral with a huge terrace overlooking Praça de Dom Duarte. But this is Viseu, not Paris. Porta is a chic, slightly upmarket spot offering well-executed regional and Portuguese dishes. I went for the arroz de carqueja, a local Beira dish I’d never seen before. Carqueja is a dried herb that translates to gorse or broom in English. It was a super hearty, meaty rice, studded with bitter greens and local smoked sausages. I’d suggest calling ahead for a reservation if you can!

For somewhere more cheap-and-cheerful with a lunch menu, across the square, try Toca d’avo, or wander further to Taberna Dona Maria.

Read next… 10 perfect days in Portugal: A fast-paced classic itinerary

Afternoon – explore historic streets and shops

After lunch, continue exploring the old town of Viseu – where you’ll find a labyrinth of cobbled lanes and staircases to wander, little squares to discover and a pretty park to rest in. Here are some things to aim for (I’ve pinned them on a Google map below too).

• There are still two portals that were once part of the Viseu city wall – Porta dos Cavaleiros and Porta do Soar. Right next to the latter is a cute café called Simplesmente Bolo, which is super sweet for a coffee and cake stop.
• Walk down Rua Direta to see a handful of Manueline windows amid traditional commerce – to show off their success, merchant families added a fancy window to their house when they had the means. 
• For more local shops, wander down Rua Dr. Luíz Ferreira to the crossroad with Rua Vitória.
• As you get lost, look for cool murals about town – the result of a street art festival.
• Pass through the beautiful Praça da República, where you can say hi to the town hall and admire a tile mural.
• Step into the Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Francisco de Viseu to admire the ornate interiors and tiles, then chill out at Aquilino Ribeiro Park. It’s a snapshot of local life with old men playing cards, students studying at wooden picnic tables, and kids enjoying ice cream at the central kiosk and playground.
• Or venture the other way and pause at the small-but-pretty Jardim das Mães, then pop into the free Almeria Moreia museum if it takes your fancy.

Evening – di Vino Dão or Mesa d’Alegria

I’ll recommend two great family-run venues in Viseu for an evening drink and a spread of petiscos (Portugal’s answer to tapas). The first, di Vino Dão, is a great wine bar with a focus on wines from the local Dão region (one of my favourites). A mother-daughter duo opened the gorgeous space in February 2025, where you can pair wines with grazing boards of local cheese and charcuterie, or little snacks. I went for the chanfana croquettes – basically traditional Portuguese croquettes, but stuffed with shredded goat meat – a fun twist between two very Portuguese dishes. The wine bar is open for lunch with great deals, and you can organise a wine tasting too.

The other is Mesa d’Alegria, a quirky petiscos restaurant with great food and great prices. Even if you’re dining solo (or with one other person), you can try a handful of traditional dishes, giving you a wider taste of Portuguese gastronomy. I had the salada de bacalhau (chickpea and codfish salad), favas com entrecosto (broad beans with ribs and smoked sausages), and the signature petisco of alheira sausage on corn bread and prosciutto. Really good.

Read next… 36 hours in Coimbra

Sleep – Celtic Lodge

I stayed at a beautifully renovated guesthouse called Celtic Lodge, which offers a few quirky perks. I booked the smallest room, which was petite but ideal for one night. What I didn’t expect to find was cans of Guinness in the minibar. That said, fortunately, Celtic Lodge isn’t what the title conjures to mind. The super-comfortable bed was dressed in luxe linens with many pillows; the water pressure in the shower (with a rainhead) was excellent; and each room had a coffee machine. There’s a communal kitchen and backyard, so it’s easy to make a cup of tea or prepare food for yourself too. But the big perk is that this stunning space is somehow connected to the town’s Irish Bar. You get a voucher to go and enjoy welcome cocktails on the house.

The location is on a super quiet, steep street very close to the cathedral. The hill wasn’t a problem, as I actually never walked up the street from the bottom. The guesthouse sits at the top, and from there you’re a stone’s throw to the old town squares and all the fun.

Other guesthouses and hotels worth looking at in Viseu:

• Avenida Boutique Hotel – recently renovated historic hotel
• Montebelo Palácio dos Melos – 4-star historic hotel

Map of Viseu

More great things to do in and around Viseu

There’s more to see and do in Viseu. Let’s take a look….

Explore more museums in Viseu

Viseu has so many small museums. I popped into a handful while in town.

• Museu Nacional Grão Vasco – I mentioned this above. Lots of national treasures and super historic artworks, if that’s your vibe. It’s a national museum – making it free for Portuguese residents and €10 for visitors.
• Almeida Moreira Museum – I potentially preferred this small, free museum set in the home of Viseu’s 20th-century cultural pioneer. He was the founder and director of the Grão Vasco Museum and bequeathed his home and collections to the city. The room upstairs with the fireplace is my favourite! It only takes 30-45 minutes to explore. Explanations are in Portuguese (but it’s mostly visual).
• City History Museum – Set in an old stone building, this modern museum walks through 2,500 years of Viseu’s history. It has two small floors, each with a paragraph or two covering periods from the Visigoths to the Romans to today. Give it 30-45 minutes. Explanations in both Portuguese and English.
• Casa da Ribeira – This small museum and cultural centre focuses on artisans and the memories of locals. When I visited, two rooms were open – one had a cute exhibition with really fun and contemporary embroidered works, while upstairs held a bigger exhibition covering Portuguese ceramics, with some history about the big factories of the late 19th and 20th centuries. Free to enter.
• Keil do Amaral Museum – Enter the 17th-century Casa da Calçada and explore the legacy of six generations of the talented Keil do Amaral family. One of them wrote the Portuguese national anthem, “A Portuguesa”, while others were painters and composers.
• Sacred Art Museum of Viseu Cathedral – Find this one within the cathedral; enter for a small fee.
• Quartz Museum – Outside the city centre lies the only quartz museum in the world, dreamed up by Portuguese geologist Galopim de Carvalho.
• Quinta da Cruz – Centre for Contemporary Art – also outside the city centre, this 10 ha property is where art and nature converge.

Party at the annual Feira de São Mateus

Every village, town and city in Portugal has its annual fair – but Viseu hosts one of the biggest. The Feira de São Mateus runs from early August until mid-September, turning the city into a fairground with concerts, markets, entertainment, culture and more. A feira is the best way to experience 21st-century Portuguese culture.

Visit a winery or cheese producer nearby

Just outside Viseu, the Dão wine region stretches across granite hills and pine forests. It’s one of Portugal’s oldest demarcated wine areas, where the altitude gives Dão wines a freshness and structure. The other treasure from this terroir is Queijo da Serra da Estrela, a protected designation-of-origin (DOP) cheese made from raw sheep’s milk and thistle rennet. It’s Portugal’s signature cheese – big wheels that are soft and gooey inside. A handful of small cheesemakers remain near Viseu – such as Queijaria Vale da Estrela or Queijaria Povolide – where you can taste it for yourself.

Explore the Palácio dos Condes de Anadia or stay at the beautiful Parador Casa da Ínsua

Just south of Viseu, the town of Mangualde has a spectacular tile-filled palace that has long been on my bucket list to visit. Palácio dos Condes de Anadia is a beautiful building, said to be one of the best 17th-century manors in Portugal, and it’s open for visits.

A little further away, I have my eyes on the Parador Casa da Ínsua, which is now a gorgeous 5-star hotel. You can stay the night, waking up like royalty, or organise a visit to Quinta da Ínsua to taste wines made on the property, which is part of the Dão wine route.

Read next… Portugal Road Trip: Where to stop between Lisbon and the Douro Valley

Where to eat in Viseu

In this guide, I already mentioned:

• Rustica – a sourdough bakery for grab-and-go baked goods
• Restaurante Porta – for a chic lunch or dinner with regional dishes
• Simplesmente Bolo – top spot for coffee and homemade cakes
• di Vino Dão – a wine bar specialising in Dão wines
• Mesa d’Alegria – a petiscos restaurant with a wide range of Portuguese dishes

But I always do a lot of research, so to that list I’d add:

• O Cortiço – a very traditional, hearty and rustic restaurant. I would have eaten here if I weren’t solo – portions are designed for at least two.
• Flora – modern Portuguese spot with tasting menus that’s caught the eye of Michelin judges. I really, really want to eat here, but it’s only open Wed-Sat nights. Next time…
• +55 Restaurante – a restaurant with comforting Brazilian food
• Palace Viseu – a chic spot with modern takes on Portuguese food
• 100 Papas na língua – a top spot in Viseu for steak
• Zé do Pernil – a cheap-and-cheerful spot for pork leg sandwiches.
• Tachinho da Avó – a traditional, no-frills tasca in the old town
• DeRaiz, Restaurante Santa Luzia, and A Púcara – three highly acclaimed restaurants about a 10-minute drive from town
• Restaurante Clube Caçadores – a restaurant with 30+ years of history, specialising in game dishes

How to get to Viseu

Viseu doesn’t have a train station – but it’s still easy enough to reach. The closest major cities are Porto (about 130 km away) and Coimbra (around 90 km), both well-connected by bus and car. From Lisbon, it’s roughly a 3.5-hour drive north via the A1 and A25 motorways.

If you’re travelling by bus, Rede Expressos and FlixBus run frequent direct routes from Lisbon, Porto and Coimbra to Viseu’s glistening central bus station, which is about a 10–15 minute walk from the old town. Tickets usually cost between €5-20, depending on where you’re coming from.

If you prefer more flexibility, renting a car is the best option – it’ll let you explore the Dão wine region, the Serra da Estrela mountains and nearby villages at your own pace. Roads are in great condition, and parking in Viseu is generally easy and inexpensive.

FAQs about visiting Viseu

Is Viseu worth visiting?

Absolutely. Viseu is one of Portugal’s most underrated little cities. It’s super walkable, full of history and refreshingly local. It’s a great base for exploring the Dão wine region and the nearby Serra da Estrela mountains.

How many days do you need in Viseu?

You can see the main sights in a full day, but one or two nights will allow you to enjoy the city at a slower pace, where you can make yourself at home.

What is Viseu known for?

Viseu is known for its old historic centre, impressive cathedral and connection to the Dão wine region. It’s also the hometown of painter Grão Vasco and close to the production area of Portugal’s famous Queijo da Serra da Estrela cheese.

Does Viseu have a train station?

No – trains don’t reach Viseu. The easiest way to get there is by bus or car from Porto, Coimbra or Lisbon. I took the RedeExpresso from Lisbon and it was safe, comfortable and fast with just one stop along the way.

When is the best time to visit Viseu?

Spring (April–June) and early autumn (September–October) are both great times of year! I recently visited in October, and there was a contest between stores for the best themed window – very cute. If you visit in August or early September, you’ll catch the city’s huge Feira de São Mateus festival as well.

That’s my guide to the best of Viseu, based on a couple of visits to the pretty inland city. Anywhere I missed? Leave me a comment…

Keep reading….

• Step inside Capela de São Miguel in Coimbra
• Guide to Tomar: Portugal’s city of Templar legends
• 10 perfect days in Portugal: A fast-paced classic itinerary
• 16 best day trips from Lisbon
• Lisbon’s best restaurants: 41 great places to eat
• My favourite tascas in Lisbon: Where to eat traditional Portuguese food
• Local’s guide to the LX Factory, Lisbon’s creative micro neighbourhood
• Best places to eat octopus in Lisbon
• Best boat tours in Lisbon

The post 24 hours in Viseu, Portugal’s pretty garden city appeared first on Olá Daniela.

Whether you’re tracing the footsteps of the mysterious Knights Templar or simply seeking out beautiful places, here’s a handful of ideas for day trips that you can take from Tomar.

Visiting Tomar? Check out my detailed Tomar guide covering the best things to do there and where to stay, and my guide on where to eat in Tomar.

Day trips to Tomar from Lisbon or Coimbra

Before we dive into the best day trips from Tomar, I wanted to share some day trips to Tomar.

If you’ve landed here searching for the best guided excursions from Lisbon, there are a handful of outrs that blend rich storytelling with Tomar’s stunning architecture and mysterious legacy. Here are four options:

• From Lisbon: Boat to Almourol Castle, a guided visit to the Convent of Christ, and time to explore Tomar’s old town. Book this small-group adventure, usually max. 8 people – or go private with this tour. 
• From Lisbon: Visit 3 UNESCO World Heritage sites in one day: Tomar, Batalha and Alcobaça. Private tour. Check your dates and book
• From Lisbon: Visit both Tomar and the religious site of Fátima. Book this small-group tour, or a private tour.
• From Coimbra: Visit the Convento de Cristo in Tomar, with a bonus stop at the Castelo de Soure. Small-group tour, max. 4 people. Check your dates and book.

Otherwise, read my guide to Tomar and plan your independent journey – it’s possible to catch a train from Lisbon or drive.

South: Almourol Castle & Constância

Drive from Tomar: 30-minute drive south of Tomar, I recommend stopping on the journey from Lisbon.

You’ll audibly gasp when you see Almourol Castle for the first time. There’s no other way to react when you turn a corner and the small, fairytale Templar fortress pops into view, set on a small island in the middle of the Rio Tejo. Visiting the ancient stone castle is a little adventure.

Almourol is easily one of Portugal’s prettiest castles. It is said to have existed before 1129 – though the main door says the foundation was from 1171 when it was rebuilt by the Knights Templar. To reach the castle, catch a small boat from the river’s edge nearby or from the village of Tancos. We drove directly to the castle area where there is plenty of parking, then waited five minutes for the little boat to come around – it was €4 for the return ride, which dropped us and a small family there for 40 minutes. 

After, you could visit the small village of Tancos or larger village of Constância. Both are very cute, filled with whitewashed buildings trimmed in mustard yellow and villagers who take pride in making the streets beautiful with flowers.

If you don’t have a car, no problem. There are a handful of tours from Lisbon that stop to explore Almourol Castle and Constância before reaching Tomar. Try this small-group adventure or go private. 

Need to know: There is no water or bathrooms on the island – use the kiosk before you go. Also, the ferry boat left early, so we almost missed our ride back to the mainland before they took a longer break for lunch – be back 5 minutes early!

Tickets: Buy direct from the captain (bring cash).

West: Ourém & Fátima

Drive from Tomar: Ourém is a 25-minute drive, Fátima is 30 – and it’s 15 minutes between the two.

Continue on the trail of the Knight’s Templar with a day trip to Ourém, a small city near Tomar with an epic castle. After the earthquake of 1755, villagers built a new town centre two kilometres (1.2 mile) away, leaving the historic village to be preserved. Park the car, enter the village walls and stroll along cobbled streets until you reach Ourém Castle. 

There’s a lot of history in these walls. After its reconquest from the Moors, Portugal’s first king donated Ourém to his daughter, Dona Teresa, in 1178. The castle sits strategically at the highest point and has been adapted over time – most notably in the 15th century with the addition of the Palace of the Counts of Ourém.

Pass back through the village, stopping for a coffee and Ginjinha d’Castelo de Ourém, a local liquor. It’s worth popping inside the Igreja da Colegiada / Igreja Matriz de Ourém. And if you’re really keen, you can stay the night at the Pousada de Ourém, a 3-star hotel with a pool in the walls.

From here, many travellers continue to Fátima, one of the world’s most important Catholic pilgrimage sites, where three children reported visions of the Virgin Mary in 1917. While I respect its spiritual significance, I found the endless fringe of souvenir shops and neon-lit stalls a little overwhelming – more religion-as-commerce than peaceful retreat.

My preference would be to instead cool off at Praia Fluvial do Agroal, a natural swimming spot in a clear spring-fed creek. Perfect for a refreshing dip on a hot day.

Need to know: You can drive right up to the Ourém Castle, but I wouldn’t recommend it if you’re not a confident driver. There’s a small entry fee for the castle.

Read next…Guide to autumn in Portugal: Where to go, things to do & more

North: Dornes & Casal de São Simão villages

Drive from Tomar: 30 minutes to Dornes, 40 minutes to Casal de São Simão

A cute Templar village by a lake, and a hidden freshwater swimming spot? When you head north of Tomar, this is the day trip you can take. Let’s start with the small schist village of Casal de São Simão – it’s a tiny, beautiful aldeia with just one street tucked into the Lousã mountains north of Tomar. 

From the village, there’s a steep path down to an epic river beach – it takes about 15 minutes, but we opted to drive closer to the Fragas de São Simão. Here the crystal-clear Alge Creek, lined with tropical greenery, is paradise on a hot day. Keep following the stream and you’ll hop from waterhole to waterhole until you’re between two towering cliffs and the pools are bathed in sunshine. It’s a magical spot.

After, or alternatively, you could explore the small village of Dornes, set on a rocky peninsula above the Zêzere River. The stunning location, 13th-century Templar tower and handful of whitewashed streets have gained Dornes a place on lists about Portugal’s most beautiful villages. When we visited, we met my friend Cristina (from Choice of Magic) for a sunset dinner at Fonte de Cima – she and her husband visit every year and had spent the day on a private river beach with their dogs. From the village, boats can drop you anywhere.

Read next… Most beautiful villages in Portugal

More day trip ideas from Tomar

Tomar is well-positioned for day trips. Here are a few more ideas:

North from Tomar

• Coimbra, Portugal’s medieval capital, is a 50-minute drive north – I have a guide to the city here.
• In the hills south of Coimbra lie a handful of Schist Villages, quaint stone aldeias set in nature. Perfect for a quiet hike or hearty lunch.
• The Roman ruins of Conímbriga, one of the largest excavated Roman settlements in Portugal, are a 50-minute drive

West from Tomar

• It’s a 35-minute drive west to the Batalha Monastery, a mega Gothic church constructed over 150 years. 
• Pair that with a visit to the beautiful Castelo de Porto de Mós, and pass by the workshop of Victoria Handmade baskets.
• Explore the Parque Natural das Serras de Aire e Candeeiros, 40 minutes west. Here you can visit many caves, and explore textile and watercolour museums
• Hit the beach: The coast is about a 1-hour drive away. Visit Nazaré for big waves (in the winter) or a quieter patch of coast.
• Explore Portugal’s glass-making history at Marinha Grande, a 50-minute drive.

South and east from Tomar

• Continue inland on the Tejo River, east of Almourol Castle there’s the town of Abrantes and its castle
• Go see the Oliveira do Mouchão, a 3,350-year-old olive tree that still bears fruit.
• Visit Belver, a 45-minute drive south-east, to explore the castle, swim at Praia Fluvial do Alamal river beach, and walk the Passadiço de Alamal boardwalk.
• Close to Tomar is Castelo do Bode Dam where there are tons of river beaches plus activities like wakeboarding.

Did you use any of these day trip ideas near Tomar? I’d love to hear about it – leave me a comment…

Keep reading….

• Where to eat in Tomar
• Guide to Tomar: Portugal’s city of Templar legends
• 10 perfect days in Portugal: A fast-paced classic itinerary
• 24 hours in Viseu, Portugal’s pretty garden city
• 13 best day trips from Lisbon
• Lisbon’s best restaurants: 41 great places to eat
• My favourite tascas in Lisbon: Where to eat traditional Portuguese food
• Local’s guide to the LX Factory, Lisbon’s creative micro neighbourhood
• Best places to eat octopus in Lisbon
• Best boat tours in Lisbon

The post Best day trips from Tomar appeared first on Olá Daniela.

Whether you’re drawn by the weight of its history, or want to explore a pretty, personality-packed small city, Tomar is the perfect central Portuguese destination for a day trip or weekend. In fact, it was recently named the top off-the-radar summer holiday destination on the European Hidden Gem Index.

In this guide, I’ll share the best things to do in Tomar, plus where to stay in town. Let’s step into the past and see what makes this town so extraordinary.

Is Tomar worth visiting?

Absolutely. Tomar is one of Portugal’s most underrated gems – a small city packed with history and charm set along the Rio Nabão. You can easily get a train there from Lisbon, and the old town is super walkable and peaceful. 

A brief history of Tomar…

Tomar was founded in 1160 by Gualdim Pais, a Portuguese knight who fought with King Alfonso Henriques against the Moors. He was Portuguese Grand Master of the Order of the Knights Templar, a medieval military and religious order originally formed during the Crusades to protect Christian pilgrims traveling to the Holy Land. Gualdim Pais built the Convento do Cristo at a strategic outlook, high above what would later become Tomar.

The Templars grew extremely powerful in Europe, so when Europe’s leaders and the Papacy suppressed the order – they rebranded and moved to Portugal as the Order of Christ in 1319. From their headquarters in Tomar, the order supported Portugal’s maritime explorations with Prince Henry the Navigator as the Grand Master. 

Read next… Best day trips from Tomar

Top things to do in Tomar

Visit the Templar Castle & Convent of Christ

This UNESCO World Heritage site is easily one of the most important – and spectacular – historic buildings in Portugal, and should be reason enough to visit Tomar. Built high above the town, this vast complex began in 1160 with the Charola – a circular chapel inspired by Jerusalem’s Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The convent’s powerful and dramatic medieval jewel, built by Gualdim Pais, has six sides on the outside and an octagonal centre. 

The rich paintings and statues you see today were added during the early 16th-century reign of Dom Manuel I. He also added an ornate Manueline doorway and the extraordinary stone-carved “window of the world” with carved motifs reflecting Portugal’s maritime discoveries. Beyond that, there are eight cloisters and (seemingly) endless corners and corridors to explore. 

The Templar Castle lies just next door and was founded in 1160 to defend the town and the Templars’ stronghold. Its thick stone walls and towers hide a landscaped garden that links up with the Mata Nacional dos Sete Montes (Seven Hills National Forest) – Tomar’s verdant public park.

Need to know: Give yourself at least 2-3 hours to explore. Entry is on the north side, which is not well signposted if you’re coming on foot from the town. It takes 10-15 minutes to walk uphill from town. 

How to explore: Buy official tickets here or consider a guided tour of the convent. Honestly, it’s massive so if you like to hear stories behind the spaces book a guided tour or guided day trip from Lisbon.

Note: entry is free for Portuguese residents.

Explore Tomar’s old town

Tomar is a pretty little city. Let yourself loose in the old town, where the skinny historic streets are a photographer’s dream. At the heart is Praça da República, the main square overlooked by the elegant Igreja de São João Baptista and the 16th-century town hall. There’s a fun medieval-themed bar – Taverna Antiqua – ideal for a drink, or head down the main pedestrian street: Rua Serpa Pinto.

Along here you’ll find shops, boutiques and cafés that spill out onto the cobblestones. Stop for a drink at the historic Café Paraiso and admire the Bauhaus interior, or try local traditional sweets at the Estrelas De Tomar bakery. At the end of this street you’ll meet the Nabão River and Mouchão Park.

Wander Mouchão Park river island

Just steps from the old town, Mouchão Park offers a leafy escape for residents. Cross a footbridge to find picnic-worthy grass, a wooden waterwheel and plenty of shade on a small island in the Nabão River. The park extends back to the mainland near the Orquestra de Sabores kiosk, where you can sit and enjoy a coffee, gelato or summer snails with views of the castle. There’s a free playground next to the café, making it popular with families. If the kids need more fun, Corda Bamba offers stacks of activities from kayak hire to giant inflatable river balls. 

Walk along Pegões Altos Aqueduct

It’s worth the five-minute drive from town to go admire this jaw-dropping feat of 16th-century engineering. The Aqueduto dos Pegões Altos was built to carry water to the Convent of Christ and it stretches for six kilometres (3.7 miles) across towering arches. You can walk across sections of the aqueduct – the views are well worth it, but it’s super high and there are no railings. 

Need to know: There’s a dirt car park at this point where you can access the aqueduct. I’d recommend mornings over afternoons to see the site glowing instead of in shadow.

Take a stroll around Mata Nacional dos Sete Montes

This 39-hectare park is Tomar’s green lung, where you’ll find forests of cypresses, oaks and century-old olive trees with a couple of trails weaving through the vegetation. It’s said the Order of Christ used some of this land for farming, but these days locals use it for exercise, to play sport or to be in nature. There are also playgrounds and picnic areas.

I found the trails to be well signposted and maintained (considering the size of the park) and I made the short, steep trek to the far side where there’s a giant swing on the highest hill that offers views back over the park, famous convent and town.

Tip: There’s a cylindrical tower, known as the “Charolinha” (little Charola), made as a small replica during the Renaissance works on the convent. Follow the signs to find it.

Need to know: This is a gated park with opening hours – don’t get locked in.

See the Museu dos Fósforos (Matchbox Museum)

This must be one of Portugal’s quirkiest museums, filled with 60,000 or so matchboxes. It started when a local travelling businessman by the name of Aquiles da Mota Lima bequeathed his collection of 43,000-plus matchboxes (collected from 127 countries across the globe) to Tomar.

The collection began back in 1953, when Mota Lima was travelling to London by ship for the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II. He met an American woman on board who asked if he could collect a few matchboxes and mail them to her. When he returned he had 100 matchboxes for his own collection, and thus the curious obsession began. 

Now Tomar’s Convento de São Francisco holds Europe’s largest collection of matchboxes, and you’ll see everything from fast cars and movie stars, to pin-ups and paintings. The oldest dates back to the late 1800s! It’s too much to take in, so skim some counters and deep dive on others to take in the details of Japanese flowers, vintage pin-ups from Cuba, Greek folk costumes, greetings from Niagara Falls, or psychedelic ‘70s owls.

Need to know: It has quite short opening hours and a long lunch break. Pair your visit with the creative workshop below, which shares the convent.

Buy ceramics and tiles from artisans at Oficina de Olaria e Azulejaria

If you have an interest in artisans, ceramics or azulejos then you have to visit this open workshop in Tomar. Seven artisans share a large space within the old Convento de São Francisco, where you can watch them at work painting tiles or shaping clay on the wheel. 

One of the ladies told me it has been open 35 years and each person works in their own style and projects. It’s an interesting space to see, with lots of little magnets and coasters that make ideal souvenirs.

Need to know: It’s opposite the matchbox museum, so pair the two!

Cool museums in the old mills of Levada D’el Rei 

What I didn’t expect from Tomar was a bunch of cool cultural spaces and unique museums and galleries known as the Complexo Cultural da Levada – and they’re all free to visit. Along the Nabão River lies a series of cute white buildings and a levada (canal), that date back to the 12th century. They were the town mills and olive press, and later a power station.

• A Moagem – Fábrica das Artes – My favourite space! Explore the five-storey old flour mill that is now the Arts Factory. Once upon a time, this 20th-century factory could produce 30,000kg in 24 hours. On each level local artists and creatives work in spaces alongside historic mill equipment, all under a faint layer of flour dust. A unique and not gluten-free arts space.
• Centro Interpretativo Tomar Templário – Small museum with a modern permanent exhibition explaining the history, heritage and traditions of Tomar. Essential stop.
• Central Elétrica de Tomar – Núcleo Museológico – Old power station that tells the story of how Tomar was one of Portugal’s first cities to have public electricity in 1901.
• Fundição Tomarense – Núcleo Museológico – Explore the details and history of this old iron foundry.

Visit the contemporary gallery and photography museum

There are two gallery spaces worth a visit in Tomar. The first is a photography museum – the Centro de Estudos em Fotografia de Tomar – installed in a cool architectural building called Casa dos Cubos. When I passed by there were two small (free) exhibitions, and a little explainer about Tomar’s first photographer. There’s also the Contemporary Art Museum, created in 2004, with a collection of 200 works donated by Professor José-Augusto França.

Catch the once-every-four-year Festa dos Tabuleiros

Thirty freshly baked 400-gram (0.8lb) bread rolls and paper flowers are stacked into a towering 1.5-metre-high (5-ft) crown that balances on the heads of Tomar’s women. One by one, more than 700 women march through the streets dressed in white. Some women beam and wave while others grit their teeth as they press on for the five-kilometre (3-mile) parade. 

This endless tide of bread, blossoms, sashes, and applause is the main event of the Festa dos Tabuleiros, a colourful festival that dresses up the town once every four years. I’ve (somehow) been twice and it’s an incredible spectacle. The next one should fall in July 2027.

Read next… Festa dos Tabuleiros: Tomar’s colourful Festival of Trays

Explore many churches and one of Portugal’s oldest synagogues

Churches. Every Portuguese village, town and city has more than it possibly needs, so here are a few cool ones in Tomar.

• Church of Santa Maria do Olival – On the outskirts of town, this gothic temple was the pantheon of the Templar Order. It dates to the 12th century and has the bones of Gualdim Pais. 
• Church of São João Baptista – (pictured) Opposite town hall on the main square, it’s thought to stretch back to the founding of the city but much of the church we see today is from 1467.
• Synagogue of Tomar & Jewish Museum –Tomar has Portugal’s only Gothic-style Hebrew temple, which was hidden for centuries. It closed in 1496 when Jews were expelled from Portugal. It became a chapel, then a barn, grocery store and warehouse before being classified a national monument in 1921. There’s a small museum there now.
• Chapel of Santa Iria – The patron saint of Tomar is celebrated at this little chapel (I hear there are 17th-century tiles inside, though I’ve never seen the door open).

Visit the daily market, or catch the monthly antiques fair 

If you love a fresh produce market, then pop into the Mercado Municipal de Tomar for vegetables, fruits, flowers, meat, cheese, bread and fish. It’s a decent enough selection of what’s in season.

I was lucky enough to catch the monthly Feira de Velharias e Antiguidades de Tomar, which falls on the first Sunday of each month from 10am until about 7pm. My strong recommendation is to go before lunch – when I visited about 3.30pm a lot of stalls were already packing up. 

Need to know: Bring cash for both markets! There is an ATM at the market, but it was out of cash (happens often on Sundays across Portugal).

Where to eat 

Tomar has some great spots to eat, from riverside terraces like Bela Vista, where century-old wisteria vines frame the Templar Castle, to the hearty local fare at Chico Elias. For something different, Curry Indian Kitchen spices things up. I have a full rundown of my favourite spots – including bakeries, cafés and hidden gems – check out my complete guide to eating in Tomar. 

Read next… Where to eat in Tomar

Where to stay in Tomar

Tomar is a super walkable small city, so I’d choose to stay right in the centre – or at an estate a short drive away. Some suggestions:

• Hotel República – Boutique, luxe 5-star hotel on the main square. 
• Casa dos Ofícios Hotel – Design-led 4-star hotel in a historic 18th-century building.
• Thomar Boutique Hotel – 4-star hotel with rooftop views over Tomar.
• Vila Galé Collection Tomar – Convent turned 4-star hotel with heated indoor pool.
• O Paço – Top-rated guesthouse with character and pool. 

Countryside estates (<20 mins drive)

• Casarão do Largo da Eira – Beautifully restored farmhouse with rustic stone walls and leafy gardens.
• Quinta do Troviscal – Rural homestay with a pool that overlooks the Castelo de Bode reservoir and breakfast.

When to visit Tomar

I have to say I laughed when I heard Tomar was named top spot for an off-the-radar summer holiday on the European Hidden Gem Index. Not because I don’t think Tomar isn’t worthy (this article proves it very much is) but because Tomar is hot, hot, hot in summer. It’s an inland city so if you want to explore the town itself, the convent and sights I recommend going in the shoulder seasons or winter. 

For this research, I visited late May and two of our six days were above 33°C (91°F). If you do experience hot days, you can reach local swimming spots like Praia Fluvial do Agroal in about 15 minutes. 

I also want to mention the Festa dos Tabuleiros, an incredible event that takes place every four years – the next one will be early July 2027. It’s a great reason to go in summer.

How to get to Tomar

By car

From Lisbon, it takes about 90 minutes to reach Tomar. From Coimbra it’s a 50-minute drive, and from Porto it’s about two hours. Parking is straightforward near the historic centre – there is clear signage on streets with a free car park near the train station and a paid carpark behind the town hall. Avoid parking in the old town streets.

By public transport

Trains run regularly from Lisbon’s Santa Apolónia or Oriente stations, taking about 1 hour 45 minutes. It’s the end of the line, so to reach Coimbra or Porto you have to take a regional train to Entroncamento or Santarém and change lines. Buses connect all three cities too.

Can you do a day trips to Tomar?

Yes, it’s easy and possible to do a day trip to Tomar. Either use my guide to plan an independent day via car or train, or join one of these guided tours from Lisbon or Coimbra that blend rich storytelling and history. Here are four options:

• From Lisbon: Boat to Almourol Castle, a guided visit to the Convent of Christ, and time to explore Tomar’s old town. Book this small-group adventure, usually max. 8 people – or go private with this tour. 
• From Lisbon: Visit 3 UNESCO World Heritage sites in one day: Tomar, Batalha and Alcobaça. Private tour. Check your dates and book
• From Lisbon: Visit both Tomar and the religious site of Fátima. Book this small-group tour, or a private tour.
• From Coimbra: Visit the Convento de Cristo in Tomar, with a bonus stop at the Castelo de Soure. Small-group tour, max. 4 people. Check your dates and book.

Best day trips from Tomar

Central Portugal is an underrated region jam-packed with cool little cities and towns and off-the-radar things to do. While in Tomar I set off to explore more of the Templar trail, which led me to medieval villages and castles nearby. In between I cooled off at river beaches and met friends along the way.

Here’s my guide to the best day trips from Tomar. You could also reach some of these from Coimbra, Santarém, Caldas da Rainha or Lisbon.

That’s what it’s like to follow the trail of the Knights Templar in Portugal and Tomar. Any questions or suggestions? Drop me a comment…

Keep reading….

• Where to eat in Tomar
• 10 perfect days in Portugal: A fast-paced classic itinerary
• 18 best day trips from Lisbon
• 24 hours in Viseu, Portugal’s pretty garden city
• Lisbon’s best restaurants: 41 great places to eat
• My favourite tascas in Lisbon: Where to eat traditional Portuguese food
• Local’s guide to the LX Factory, Lisbon’s creative micro neighbourhood
• Best places to eat octopus in Lisbon
• Best boat tours in Lisbon

The post Guide to Tomar: Portugal’s city of Templar legends appeared first on Olá Daniela.

While I’m usually based in Lisbon, I recently spent five nights in Tomar, eating at restaurants across the Templar city night and day. Not every place I ate at is included in this list – only the best Tomar restaurants that I’d genuinely return to. Of these, my favourites would be Bela Vista, Chico Elias, Casa das Ratas, Curry Indian Kitchen, and Insensato Café.

This guide brings together my favourite restaurants and places to eat in Tomar, plus the best cafes, bakeries and spots to stop for a drink. Enjoy, and please leave suggestions for places I should try next visit!

Best restaurants in Tomar

Bela Vista – €€

One of the best dishes we’ve ever eaten in Portugal was at Bela Vista in Tomar. I’d spotted the romantic setting on a previous visit to Tomar, and we locked it in on the recommendation of friends. This place, called ‘beautiful view’, has century-old wisteria vines that wrap across the veranda, framing the city of Tomar, its Templar Castle, and the Nabão River. Idyllic.

We doubled down and ordered a full dose of the cabrito assado – roasted kid (though I noted the English menu said lamb, cabrito is generally goat). The slow-roasted meat is clearly cooked for hours upon hours, becoming at once melt-in-the-mouth soft with some crunchy caramelised bits. A generous portion arrived on a huge platter with roasted potatoes seasoned with spices, garlic and olive oil, along with my favourite Portuguese side that seems to be common around the middle Tejo region – cabbage with beans and cornbread. The vegetable soup to start and leite creme (crème brûlée) to end were the perfect bookends. Call ahead to reserve a table on the terrace.

Address: R. Marquês de Pombal N°68, Tomar)
What to order: cabrito
Reservations: Book ahead by phone for a terrace table

Read next… Guide to Tomar: Portugal’s city of Templar legends

Chico Elias – €€€

Step back in time at Chico Elias, a family-fun restaurant open since 1963 that still cooks original recipes of the matriarch, Maria do Céu Simões, in a wood-fired oven. After a two-minute drive from town (or a longer uphill walk), you’ll enter a classic dining room where wooden furniture is draped in white tablecloths, the ceiling in green, and newspaper clippings line every wall. 

To dine here, you’ll have to reserve a table the day before (or earlier) and pre-order your mains when you call. We went for the bacalhau with pork and potatoes, and the duck with cabbage and rice, and for an entree we shared the petingas (small sardines) baked with onions, olive oil, vinegar, and breadcrumbs. I’m not sure if we’ve ever had warmer or more caring service in Portugal. Our host even brought us some of the house white and red wines in two small carafes so we could pair them with each dish.

Address: R. Conde de Tomar 92A, 2300-302 Tomar
What to order: bacalhau com carne (salted cod with meat); rabbit cooked in a pumpkin
Reservations: Essential! You order your mains when you book by phone at least one day ahead.

Casa das Ratas – €/€€

Casa das Ratas is one of Tomar’s oldest tascas, though sadly it was forced to shift location about five years ago. While the owner sadly lost a legal battle against the original adega’s (wine-house) landlord to keep this piece of Tomar’s 20th-century history, not all is lost. Casa das Ratas has combined with Casa Matreno across the street. 

Inside, the interiors have a vintage feel with pastel tiles and tonnes of Portuguese memorabilia and vintage items lining the shelves. The menu is traditional Portuguese with the only twist being that every dish receives extra care or small improvements. Go for the specials of the day – on a Sunday, that meant we tried the exceptional duck rice (truly very good), and the bacalhau (salted cod) of the day, which was with cabbage and cornbread.

Address: R. Dr. Joaquim Jacinto 7, 2300-577 Tomar
What to order: daily specials
Reservations: Essential on weekends, optional on weekdays.

Curry Indian House – €/€€

Some of the best Indian food in Portugal was certainly not on my Tomar restaurant bingo card. This sleek, modern restaurant (close to Tomar’s train station) is where you can order dozens of classic and lesser-known curries, tandoor specials and Indian snacks. The owner, Ganesh, is super kind, and while he grew up in Mumbai, he lived almost a decade in the UK, and then in other parts of Portugal. So the menu includes curries you’ll expect to find at British-Indian restaurants, such as butter chicken, madras, and tikka masala. 

The smell found us before we located the door of Curry Indian House. I quickly realised just how good this would be, so we decided to go wild ordering pappadams and dips, onion bhaji, a malai chicken tikka entree, rice, garlic naan and two curries – lamb madras and a chicken jalfrezi. The idea was that we’d take the leftovers home for lunch, but sadly, we didn’t leave with half as much as we’d hoped, as we kept going back for ‘just one more’ spoonful of the rich and layered curries. It’s also one of the best restaurants to savour vegetarian food in Tomar. 

Address: R. 10 de Agosto de 1385 RC 26, 2300-553 Tomar
What to order: whatever you fancy, but definitely garlic naan
Reservations: Recommended on weekends, otherwise optional.

Read next… Best day trips from Tomar

Clandestino – €

For a buzzy, fun restaurant to eat with the locals in Tomar, try Clandestino. This spot leans into petiscos, Portugal’s answer to tapas – though a single plate is large enough to feed one person. The vibe was great, the staff were super attentive and sweet (and we weren’t forgotten about, despite choosing to sit on the street), and the menu features a stack of classic Portuguese snacks and small plates. 

There’s a good and interesting selection of wines; I spotted some small and cool Portuguese producers in the fridge. We went for a light local red from Casal das Freiras, the closest winery, which did a collab with the well-known Niepoort. Make a reservation for Friday or Saturday nights.

Address: R. Dr. Joaquim Jacinto 48 A, 2300-577 Tomar
What to order: chicken hearts, ovos rotos
Reservations: Recommended on weekends.

Biscaia – €

For a super quick lunch or dinner, Biscaia is a gem. The terrace of this no-frills spot was always full at lunch, with people enjoying interesting salads or the house specialty – pulled pork sandwiches. I ordered the soup – a classic caldo verde (cabbage and potato soup) – and I could tell from the chouriço floating on top that while the menu is simple, the ingredients chosen are of the highest quality. I ordered my pernil de porco sandwich with gooey sheep’s cheese, but you could also have it with egg and bacon, or pumpkin jam. One to repeat.

Address: R. da Silva Magalhães 77, 2300-390 Tomar
What to order: pork sandwich or salad
Reservations: Possible.

A Lúria – €€€€

Hidden in a small village outside Tomar, A Lúria is a traditional Portuguese restaurant that has been open since 1979. While it likely began with humble beginnings, these days A Lúria is a bit of a Portuguese institution with white tablecloths and a shiny dining room whose slick interiors include a touch of Templar symbolism.

We started with petingas (little sardines) cooked with onion, olive oil, and a good splash of vinegar – an excellent, hot, fishy entree. A friend mentioned something called “Hunt Crispy” in English, and we couldn’t work out what it was. Basically, it’s a meat pattie with the mushy texture and flavour of alheira sausage served in a crispy bowl of filo pastry. For mains, we skipped past a steaming pot of lamprey rice, one of the house specialties, since it was a baking 34°C day. Instead, we went for the branded porco preto. We’re huge fans of black pork, so we were curious if this brand-name meat would be superior. It was certainly some beautifully grilled, high-quality pork.

Address: Portela de, R. da Alegria 34, 2300-182 Tomar
What to order: enguia (eels)
Reservations: Highly recommended on weekends – we slipped in on a Friday, but there were signs about 90-minute waits on the door.

O Tabuleiro – €

For a cheap and cheerful Portuguese, O Tabuleiro is one of the restaurants in Tomar frequently mentioned – so I went to try it out. While I wasn’t blown away by the arroz do peixe (fish rice stew), the prices are good, and I know this tasca can accommodate groups, so I’d give it another try next round, going for something off the grill.

Address: R. Serpa Pinto 146, Tomar
What to order: grilled steak or pork
Reservations: Recommended on weekends.

Read next… Tomar’s colourful festival that falls every four years

Snack bars & cafés in Tomar

Café Paraíso – €

I love historic spaces, and Café Paraíso is iconic in Tomar. This huge café-bar has been open on the main pedestrian street since 1911, always in the hands of the same family. The space underwent a huge renovation in 1946, with Porto architect Francisco Granja mixing Art Deco and Bauhaus elements, and since then, little has changed. He brought in glass from Venice, the Bauhaus chairs from Germany, and an Italian craftsman who painted the columns to imitate marble. At the front sits the wooden counter of the old newsagent that sold cigarettes and newspapers until the ‘90s.

The other thing I love about Café Paraíso is that it’s still the cool place to hang out in the city. It’s open from 8.30am until 2am six days a week, and the drinks are cheap – making it popular with students and one of the best places to go out at night here.

Address: R. Serpa Pinto 127, Tomar
What to order: coffee from 65c, beer from €1, toasted sandwiches, cake
Reservations: Not needed

Orchestra de Sabores – €

Tomar is a genuinely gorgeous small city, and one of the most beautiful places to explore is the city park that sits on an island in the middle of the Rio Nabão. Wander through here and you’ll find a casual café and ice-cream bar called “Flavour Orchestra”. It’s right next to the playground, making it a popular hangout for families. For us, the drawcard was views of the river and city, ice-cold beer, and plates of summer snails. A great spot for an afternoon pause or a late-morning coffee.

Address: Av. Marquês de Tomar 11, 2300-586 Tomar
What to order: snails, beer, gelato
Reservations: Not possible

Insensato Café-Livraria – €

Behind Insensato is a Lisbon couple who moved to Tomar to open their dream project, combining their love for books and healthy food. Inside the light-filled space, you’ll find a dozen tables and a wall of books. There’s a decent selection of thought-provoking reads in English (mostly touching on socialism, equality, and the impending climate catastrophe). Amazing, I left with two. 

I dropped by for afternoon tea, opting for the sumo do dia – a melon and strawberry juice, with a lemon and lavender teacake (both fantastic). You’ll find a full menu of sandwiches and brunch plates. Some dishes are vegan, and there’s the option to make most of the menu gluten-free. A cool spot with a great vibe, next time I’d return to this café-bookstore for lunch. Check out Instagram for pop-up themed evening events.

Address: R. da Silva Magalhães 25, 2300-593 Tomar
What to order: cafe, coffee, sandwiches
Reservations: Recommended on weekends, essential for evening events.

Read next… 36 hours in Coimbra

Taverna Antiqua – €

Dark and moody with medieval lute music, this candle-lit tavern feels perfectly in place in Tomar, a town that celebrates its history in every way. Taverna Antiqua is a well-themed spot, where the staff are dressed up and all the cups and plates are themed to look like you’ve stepped into the Middle Ages. The terrace overlooks the main square, and the price of beer is good too (for the 21st century).

Address: Praça da República 23, 2300-556 Tomar
What to order: beer or cider, but you can also stay for dinner
Reservations: Not needed for drinks, but recommended for meals on weekends.

Bakeries: Sweets and desserts in Tomar

When I travel around Portugal, I always visit local bakeries to taste the regional sweets. Every town and village in Portugal has some sort of doce linked back to the parish church or convent. It almost always involves the use of egg yolks and sugar – sometimes just those two ingredients!

In Tomar, you can try:

• Queijinhos doces – tiny, very sweet cakes made of almond paste and filled with an egg cream (pictured below left, right side)
• Estrelas de Tomar – little cakes made of cheese and almond
• Beija-me depressa – “kiss me quick!” is the translation of these tiny cakes made of egg and sugar. At Estrelas de Tomar bakery, where they were invented, you can get them by the dozen in a box with a 1960s illustration. (pictured below left, left side)
• Fatias de Tomar – it looks like a slice of cake or brioche, but it’s highly whipped egg yolks that have been sous-vided as a cake before being sliced. The slices are then boiled in a sugar syrup. (pictured below right)

Estrela de Tomar – €

Since opening in 1960, this Tomar pasteleria and café has been a staple of the small city. The bakery is focused on Tomar’s convent sweets and even created an iconic doce inspired by Portugal’s traditional sweets – the Beija-me Depressa. There are two sides to Estrela de Tomar: the large sitting room overlooking the river; and terrace tables on the main pedestrian street of Tomar, Rua Serpa Pinto.

Address: R. Serpa Pinto 12, Tomar
What to order: Estrelas de Tomar, beija-me depressa, fatias de Tomar, queijinhos doces
Reservations: Not possible

Pasteleria Tropical – €

I pay attention when I see the words “fabrico proprio”, which means the café-bakery actually makes the sweets it sells. In Tomar, Pasteleria Tropical is a great daily stop for coffee and toast, fresh bread, sweets, or even a birthday cake. They have three locations across the small city. The one nearest to us was open until 10pm every night and midnight on Saturday. It’s always a good time for cake.

Address: Av. Marquês de Tomar 25; R. Fábrica da Sola 17; R. Dr. João de Oliveira Casquilho
What to order: I ate the queijada de amêndoa (almond tart) on the recommendation of my server, but there are dozens and dozens of pastries to choose from.
Reservations: Not possible

What restaurants should I eat at next time I’m in Tomar, Portugal? If you have a tip, leave me a comment!

Keep reading….

• Lisbon’s best restaurants: 41 great places to eat
• My favourite tascas in Lisbon: Where to eat traditional Portuguese food
• Where to find the best Portuguese street food and snacks in Lisbon
• The best pastel de nata cooking classes in Lisbon and Porto
• The Best Food Tours & Experiences in Lisbon
• Lisbon restaurants open Sunday and Monday
• Local’s guide to the LX Factory, Lisbon’s creative micro neighbourhood
• Best places to eat octopus in Lisbon
• Best boat tours in Lisbon

The post Where to eat in Tomar: Best restaurants, cafés & bars appeared first on Olá Daniela.

At 6.15am the next day the beating hum of a primal drum rang out across Quinta Carvalhas. I was tempted to ignore it, knowing another would follow at 6.45am, but unlike the aggressive beep, beep, beep of my phone alarm I was lulled wide awake and I reached for my pen – instead of an Instagram doomscroll – and journaled. I hardly knew myself.

I’d arrived at Just Flow, a Portugal yoga and meditation retreat feeling a bit anxious and apprehensive. I’m more of a wellness worrier than warrior, and while I love my weekly (or so) yoga class I’ve never managed to sit still long enough to consider meditation. But my busy mind was caving in on itself, so I promised myself I’d keep it open, commit to every experience 100 per cent, and see how it went. 

By the end of the short week I could see the change in the faces of my fellow retreat goers. Perhaps more surprisingly, I could see it in me. Together we went with the flow, rested and recharged, and set some positive intentions for spring – all while someone else cooked and cleaned for us. The whole week felt like a big, warm, cosy hug. Just what my soul needed. 

Let’s dive in to see what this 5-day Portugal wellness retreat is like. Spoiler – no one dies at the end.

What was this Portugal wellness retreat? 

Just Flow is a nurturing yoga and mindful meditation retreat that happens twice a year (March and November) at Quinta Carvalhas in Portugal’s Ribatejo area, just an 80-minute drive or train north of Lisbon. I joined the March edition, which falls around the spring equinox.

This is the only retreat run by Michelle, the incredible owner of Quinta Carvalhas – The Green Farm, who takes the meditation and art sessions; her co-host, the yoga teacher Rianne; and Rianne’s little shadow, Julius the rescue dog (who stole my heart). 

We arrived on the Sunday afternoon, meeting around the dinner table for the first time. The Portugal wellness retreat wrapped up five nights later around lunch on Friday. The next Just Flow will be in November. The rest of the year the estate welcomes retreats from other facilitators.

Where is Quinta Carvalhas?

Quinta Carvalhas is in the Ribatejo, about an 80-minute drive or train north of Lisbon. The estate itself is absolutely gorgeous and you can see the love and detail around every corner. The rooms are all unique, set within restored farmhouse buildings, and the expansive property has more than a dozen horses and 650 historic olive trees. 

The first thing I noticed when I stepped out of my car was the gentle birdsong. A constant chorus of little birdies chirping away from dawn till dusk was the backdrop for this peaceful week. The train stops in Mato de Miranda, just a five-minute-drive from the estate, so they will happily organise pick-ups and drop-offs. Super easy.

What was the vibe of this yoga and meditation retreat? Who attended?

Just Flow promised to be an inward journey of self-care and nourishment to make you feel good on the inside and out. Being spring, the theme was about blooming into your best self with daily yoga and meditation sessions, and plenty of free time to journal, walk in nature, join a horse therapy session or get a massage.

The Portugal retreat was really all about going with the flow – and I think the best way to describe the whole experience is like a really delicious, warm hug. Each day had its own theme – Sow, Root, Sprout, Grow, Bloom, Thrive – and the meditation sessions reflected this, plus we received a page of journal prompts every night after dinner.

For the most part our mornings were busy – but a mindful, purposeful kind of busy – with yoga, breakfast and meditation. We’d have a small pocket of time ideal for journaling, reading or a walk through the luscious meditation garden before lunch. In the afternoon we’d have a group activity or free time, which many used to take long walks in the countryside or add optional extra therapies or massages to their programs before an early evening yoga or meditation session and dinner.

This Portugal yoga and meditation retreat is open to everyone and anyone. Among us quite a few attendees were returning for the second, third or even fourth time. We were a mixed crowd with people in their 30s, 40s, 50s and 60s coming from within Portugal, the Netherlands, Germany, Bulgaria, America and England. There were a couple of men too.

One of the women told me: “it’s the only holiday I return from that I feel truly rejuvenated.”

Overall the vibe was a very judgement-free and body-positive space with a supportive and open group.

What did I learn during the retreat?

The beauty of a retreat that’s about looking inward is that each person is on a different journey. For me personally, it was a chance to slow down, defrost after winter, and reconsider where I was putting my energy. 

There were so many takeaways, and I don’t want to go into great detail here as I’ll break down various parts of the retreat below. Overall the main things I took away were probably:

• Manifestation is an amazing tool. Use it to get clear on what you want and visualise your future.
• Journaling is another great tool to go deeper, unlock unanswered or avoided questions and to clear your mind and find clarity.
• Everything will unfold as it is supposed to (so try your best but don’t panic if you’re late).
• Fear is a clue to take action (lean in, not away).
• We should all be kinder to ourselves.
• There is enough time, so just breathe.

Read next… 9 places to visit in Portugal this spring

How was the daily yoga?

Daily yoga was such a treat. Quinta Carvalhas has a beautiful specially designed yoga hall – the Yoga Shala – with all the equipment you could ever want. Rianne (pictured) is a brilliant yoga teacher who is focused on the physical body and technique, while still bringing lots of fun to each class. We did one session every morning with a different theme, and sometimes a second, different style later in the day. 

The first couple of morning sessions were slower with a focus on technique. We re-learnt downward dog and warrior poses, speaking about what we’re trying to achieve with these different positions. The final two morning sessions were more dynamic with a faster flow to build heat. The studio has inversion chairs, which were fun to play with.

On the first full retreat day we also did an evening yoga nidri session, which was amazing. I’d never done this “sleep yoga” style before. We wrapped ourselves in cosy blankets and lay down in a circle in the meditation space. It was a cool and curious experience to teeter on the edge of consciousness, and after I felt like I’d just woken up from a long restorative nap. Wild.

And the meditation sessions?

These sessions led by Michelle were all so different, in a good way. Opposite the expansive Yoga Shala is Pine Hall, a kind of sanctuary for meditation and thinking. Here Michelle and Rianne had created a central altar of sorts with tall candles surrounded by fragrant jasmine and eucalyptus leaves from the gardens. We gathered in a circle on comfy floor cushions with bolsters and blankets. 

These meditation sessions and deeper-thinking sermons honed into the spring theme of the retreat. The earlier retreat meditations were about digging deeper and reflecting on oneself, and the later ones looked at how we’d expand ourselves and become our best versions. Michelle also organised a really special sound bath experience in the space one evening.

Other included activities?

Besides daily yoga and meditation, there was an art activity on one of the first days. Michelle ran this session in the Olive Art Studio, a dedicated art hall that also hosts regular mosaics retreats. With fun music blasting, we each had a lump of terracotta clay and were left to run wild for some time before being forced to destroy our creations. Fun? Yep, my takeaway was to spend more time being creative and making things for no reason. 

As this retreat collided with the spring equinox, we had a mysterious activity planned on the final day that involved writing down our spring intention on a piece of paper, throwing it in a fire pit and then jumping into the icy cold pool. Later that day we also had a half-hour intuitive dance session to close the event, before a fancier dressed-up dinner where we swapped yoga pants for something more chic.

How was the food?

Fantastic. I’m not a vegetarian, so I was worried I’d be low in energy or not feeling myself with a 100 per cent meat-free week – but actually my body was so happy with the food. We received a delicious, creative and healthy vegetarian menu for lunch and dinner. It usually included a starter, main and dessert all served to us at a long table set within a light-filled glass veranda.

Some favourite dishes of mine were the mushroom soup (or any of the soups!), the herby pea fritters, the falafel with beetroot hummus, the healthy roasted pumpkin bitoque (a traditional Portuguese dish of steak with a fried egg), and the insane baked chocolate and fig puddings.

Extra therapies, from massage and reiki to horse therapy

The program of Just Flow at Quinta Carvalhas was really spacious, allowing lots of time for self-reflection, journaling, reading, long walks and extra therapies. Rianne the yoga teacher is also a trained Thai masseuse, but I opted for a more traditional relaxation massage with Shana. Michelle ran private sessions for intuitive healing and reiki. 

You could also book equine or horse therapy, led by the stables. I’d heard this type of therapy was really helpful for some people but I remained a little sceptical. But when one of the participants invited me to join her for the first 15 minutes as she wanted pictures of the experience – it was quite amazing to step into the field with the horses and see how she connected with one in particular. The experience moved her to tears and it was just the first 10 minutes.

The rooms

Quinta Carvalhas is made up of a series of old stone farmhouse buildings lovingly restored into various spaces and rooms, ideal for hosting retreats. There are 16 unique bedrooms split across a handful of buildings – from the original farmhouse to converted stone stables – and most are ensuite. I stayed in the Forest Room, a massive moody bedroom with so much space to spread out.

The bed was super comfortable with a choice of pillows, the room had a couch and a little tea- and coffee-making station (a rarity in Portugal), and the Wi-Fi reached the room so I could do my Portuguese lesson remotely. The shower was 10/10 and house keeping came through every day. 

When’s the next Just Flow retreat?

Michelle and Rianne host Just Flow at Quinta Carvalhas twice a year – in March and November. Each is about embracing the change of seasons and resetting your intentions.

Would I go again? Absolutely and I can highly recommend it anyone looking to change their perspective, be good to themselves, and slow down with a week in nature.

I experienced Just Flow as an invited guest of Quinta Carvalhas, but my opinions and thoughts are all my own. This article has been published independently and Quinta Carvalhas were not allowed a preview or to request changes. 

Read next:

• How to spend 48 hours in Lisbon
• 22 most beautiful castles in Portugal
• 18 best places to visit in the Alentejo
• Lisbon’s best day trip: Sintra 1 or 2-Day Itinerary
• 13 best day trips from Lisbon
• Local’s guide to the LX Factory, Lisbon’s creative micro neighbourhood

The post Just Flow: What to expect at this Portugal yoga and wellness retreat appeared first on Olá Daniela.

But forget the tragic marketing attempt and imagine this fantasy instead: a petite old city where traditional brightly coloured moliceiro boats traverse a handful of wide canals lined with picture-perfect pastel art nouveau buildings. University students clink beers in the sunshine, tourists snack on golden ovos moles sweets, fishermen bring in the catch of the day and locals pile into cars headed for the seaside.

The Portuguese city of Aveiro has a soft spot in my heart. Beyond being absolutely stunning and full of incredible architecture and unusual tiles it’s where some of my partner’s family live. That means I’ve spent a fair chunk of time in this small university city.

Here are my favourite things to do and see in Aveiro.

1. Explore Aveiro’s canals by moliceiro

Again: not Venice. But do take delight in exploring the handful of pretty canals that divide Aveiro’s old town centre. Fed by the nearby tidal sea lagoon, they are a unique part of the city and are lined with some of the most incredible art nouveau houses.

You can wander alongside the canals, of course, but why walk when you can cruise about in a colourful and historic moliceiro boat. Originally made to harvest seaweed in the lagoon, which was once used for fertiliser on nearby farms, they’re now just for tourists and a ride will set you back about €13. Take a close look at the artwork at the tip of each boat… some pieces are quite risque.

2. Wander the historic centre of Aveiro

You never know what you’ll find in Portugal. One January day we stumbled on a festival in the city centre and joined the locals in a square surrounding a small hexagonal chapel (Capela de São Gonçalinho). A restless crowd was gathered with fishing rods, basketball hoops and umbrellas. From the roof of the chapel, someone started throwing cavacas (basically stale bread coated in sugar) into the sky. I’ve never seen old ladies move so fast, using their elbows to muscle their way into prime position. Jorge managed to catch one of the inexplicably highly prized breads and an 80-something-year-old woman demanded he give it to her, even though she had a whole bagful of them. He didn’t.

Without celebration, there is still plenty of beauty to behold. At the start of the 20th century emigrants who made fortunes in Brazil returned to the city and built lavish art nouveau-style homes for themselves. Wander through the old centre or follow the Art Nouveau trail to check out the most special and ornate buildings including the Art Nouveau museum. Aveiro also has some incredible azulejos unlike those found in Porto or Lisbon too.

3. Eat ovos moles

Every town in Portugal has unique egg-based sweets linked to the local convents or religious sector. Here in Aveiro the sweet egg and sugar treat is ovos moles, which literally means “soft eggs”. Super simple and delicious, a golden, creamy egg yolk and sugar filling is stuffed inside thin wafer paper, which is shaped to resemble things such as clams, seashells, fish and barrels. I adore them and my favourite store is the oldest in Aveiro. Started in 1856, Peixinho’s ovos moles are worth buying for the packaging alone.

4. See the striped houses of Costa Nova

The vibrant striped old fisherman’s cottages of Costa Nova are one of my favourite sights in Portugal. These old shacks used to house fishing gear, but now house tourists. Make time to head over to the thin strip of land that divides the wild Atlantic Ocean and the calm Aveiro lagoon, to explore the brilliant life-size doll houses, ideally with a tripa de Aveiro in hand.

The best houses are found on the lagoon side, where many are now guest houses or seafood restaurants. The sunset from the wild beaches beyond the dunes is incredible.

While Aveiro is a popular beach destination, you’ll need a car (or patience for the bus) to drive the 10km between the city and Costa Nova, or the other beachside area called Barra.

5. Eat tripas de Aveiro

Don’t confuse tripas a moda de Porto with tripas de Aveiro. Order the former and you’ll receive a hearty dish of stewed tripe and offal. Order the latter and enjoy a soft, freshly cooked crepe filled with chocolate or ovos moles filling and dusted with cinnamon. It’s a tradition of the Costa Nova area and you’ll see little stands along the roadside. 

6. Learn about local life at the train station

Aveiro is well placed about an hour south of Porto and around 2.5 hours north of Lisbon, regardless of whether you drive or take the train. Arriving by train gives you the chance to check out the recently refurbished Aveiro train station, which has an exterior of magnificent tiles from 1916. Okay, it’s nothing like São Bento Station in Porto but well worth a look to see the blue-and-white scenes of Aveirense life back in the early 20th century.

7. Seek out the market

I love nothing more than wandering through a busy Portuguese market hall. Early morning is the best time to seek the catch of the day at Aveiro’s Mercado Manuel Firmino and witness the hall heaving with busy vendors and customers. Inside you’ll find everything from fruit and vegetables to fish, meat and cheeses, to biscuits, beans and booze. 

8. Visit the Art Nouveau Museum

Housed in arguably the most beautiful and ornate of the Aveiro’s Art Nouveau buildings, the Museu Arte Nova de Aveiro is well worth a look and inside you’ll find a super cute cafe. Spend an hour exploring the history of art nouveau design and culture, then stop for a coffee and cake in the super cute courtyard. When I popped through there was a great temporary exhibit that covered art nouveau advertising, print design and typography, and the permanent exhibition had a brilliant video covering the social and political landscape that gave birth to this style.

9. Explore the Vista Alegre factory and museum

If you’re interested in the history of ceramics, just outside Aveiro is the original, still functional Vista Alegre factory. The pottery workshop has been producing some of the finest china for more than 200 years and it still employs some 700 people. There’s a 17th-century palace, small chapel and whole village (complete with a theatre) originally built for the workers, plus the museum has 30,000 pieces on display including old kilns.

10. Wander an enchanting city park

If you love the romance of a great city park, wander through the enchanting 19th-century Parque Infante Dom Pedro. With a huge pond, little bridges, a historic tea house, covered walkway, art nouveau bandstand, tiled panels, fountains and a cave there is plenty to explore and lots of grass for a picnic.

Related Blog: Where to shop for tiles (azulejos) in Portugal

11. Bath in the salt pans

With the wide, tidal lagoon it’s no surprise that Aveiro is a salt city. Here businesses still produce flor de sal and table salt with the tides, which you can learn more about at Ecomuseu Marinha da Troncalhada or Cale do Oiro, where you can also strip off and dive into a salt pan yourself. We did this once in the Algarve and while Jorge enjoyed it, the salt tingled my skin so much I found it quite uncomfortable. But you do leave the minerally salty water feeling like a new person and it’s worth trying at least once. 

Other things to do in Aveiro

• Museu do Aveiro – houses the ornate tomb of 15th-century Portuguese princess Saint Joana
• Maritime Museum – filled with life-size replicas of boats, details on cod fishing industry and aquarium of cod fish.
• Natural Reserve of São Jacinto Dunes – 7km trail around the wetland reserve

Where to stay in Aveiro

Aveiro is super walkable, so I’d still suggest somewhere in the historic centre where you can be close to all the action. Or if you’re after a beach escape, the nearby Costa Nova is only a short drive or bus ride away.

In Aveiro’s art nouveau centre  I’d look at Avenida 60 Premium Apartments, Sleep in Centre, Vera Cruz Suite Apartment or Aveiro Rossio Bed & Breakfast. 

Or if you want to stay in Costa Nova by the beach, check out three-star Costa Nova Hotel, apartment Villa Rafa, or even sleep in one of the iconic striped fishermen’s huts at Palheiro Costa Nova.

How to get to Aveiro

From Porto
Just south of Porto, Aveiro is a 50-minute drive or train ride from the centre of Porto. It’s cheap to visit with public transport as you can use the Porto transport card. 

From Lisbon
Aveiro is a 2.5 hour drive or train ride from Lisbon. Any train to Porto will stop at Aveiro, so take your pick from Santa Apolonia Station.

Read next… 

• Portugal Road Trip: Where to stop between Lisbon and Porto
• Best tile painting workshops in Lisbon, Porto and the Algarve
• Guide to Tomar: Portugal’s city of Templar legends
• 36 hours in Coimbra
• 24 hours in Viseu, Portugal’s pretty garden city
• 22 most beautiful castles in Portugal
• 16 most beautiful villages and small towns in Portugal
• Where to eat in Tomar
• Best day trips from Tomar

Photos by Jorge Branco and Daniela Sunde-Brown

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The strong sound of jangling cowbells on a crisp winter evening is forever etched in my memory. Now just hearing the distinct clanging raises my heartbeat, taking me back to a few dark and wild nights in the remote north-west of Portugal, when I was traipsing about Podence trying to avoid encounters with the local caretos. 

Every February the streets of a few small Portuguese villages come alive with dark winter carnivals, known in Portugal as entrudos. These pre-Lent or Shrovetide festivals were a chance for the locals to forego society’s rules for just a moment. By concealing their identity with huge masks and crazy costumes, their mischievous side bubbles to the surface.

Yes, the devil is on the loose in Portugal, so watch your back.

To this day, men in a handful of ancient villages continue the bizarre traditions of their ancestors. To the sound of beating of drums and the squeal of a gaita, masked caretos or foliões run amuck, causing ~mostly~ harmless fun and poking fun at their neighbours.

While Portugal has more modern Carnival celebrations – like those in Rio de Janeiro with glitter, floats and smiles from ear-to-ear – I certainly find myself drawn to the darker side where you never what chaos lies around the next stone-walled village corner.

Below I’ve rounded up the eight best traditional Portuguese Carnivals. These tend to celebrate the changing of seasons with fire, feasting, and fanfare in the name of spring fertility. Usually the fun runs from the Saturday until Shrove Tuesday.

I’ve also included a handful of the bigger and more popular modern carnival parades at the very bottom. 

What is an entrudo?

This is an ancient carnival tradition held every February or March, usually on Fat Sunday or Shrove Tuesday – the days before Lent. Most festivities happen in small villages in the north or centre of Portugal. It’s a time to celebrate the end of a long, dark winter and perform rituals to stimulate fertility – both for a good harvest and for women.

These mischievous parties and carnivals scare off evil energies and bring together the community. You can expect costumes, masks, and odd traditions or rituals. The origins of entrudos are unknown, but some scholars link it back to Roman times, and others to ancient Neolithic roots. 

Many of these festivities have been reborn after a severe depopulation of rural villages, starting in the 1960s. During these celebrations many young people now return to their villages to continue the tradition and keep it alive.

In 2025 Shrove Tuesday falls on March 4. In 2026 it will be February 17.

Cowbells, chaos & candle-lit processions: Entrudo Chocalheiro

Where: Podence, Bragança, Trás-os-Montes, North Portugal

Grasping tall, red, wax-dipped torches, we follow a pagan parade through the usually quiet Tras-os-Montes village of Podence. Arriving at an open field, the hooded caretos – dressed in a fringed red, yellow and green suit and deep red metal mask – start to leap anticlockwise around a dry hay effigy of themselves. The heavy cowbells hanging from their belts clanging violently in the breeze.

Within seconds, flames engulf the haystack, sending a heatwave through the crowd. The long, cold winter is over, but the Entrudo Chocalheiro, an ancient four-day carnival in Portugal’s remote Tras-os-Montes region, has just begun.

Each February, ancient pagan rituals invade this sleepy stone village for four days of feasting, fire and fanfare. The UNESCO-protected Entrudo Chocalheiro is a devilish ritual dating back more than 2,000 years. Wearing the “devil’s skin”, local men skip about lawlessly looking to cause mischief and shake their cowbells at random women in the name of spring fertility. 

Getting there: Podence is a small village about one hour and 45 minutes from Porto, or 4.5 hours from Lisbon. If you don’t have a car, the closest large town is Macedo de Cavaleiros, and you can take a direct bus there from Porto and then a 15-minute taxi. Alternatively, there’s an irregular local bus that moves between Macedo and Podence.

Where to stay: Podence, ideally. It’s a tiny village (that finally has an ATM!). If you can’t find accommodation in Podence, I highly recommend the lake-side village of Santa Combinha. It’s on a peninsula in a natural park on the shores of Azibo Lake. It was the most gorgeous spot to wake up in each day.

Cork masks, a village rally & plenty of wine: Entrudo of Aldeias de Xisto de Góis

Where: Aigra Nova, Aldeias de Xisto de Góis, Coimbra, Central Portugal

We arrive before 8.30am on a sunny winter Sunday to find the streets of Aigra Nova buzzing. A stream of villagers starts rolling down a steep cobbled street towards us. Men dressed in women’s clothing, women dressed as men. Many have underwear on the outside, or bras stuffed with oranges. All are wearing homemade masks made of raw cork bark, embellished with horns, moss and other natural features.

We pile into a mini bus and set off on a chaotic “rally” to four other schist villages before returning to Aigra Nova for lunch, dancing and to burn a pagan effigy. Hell yes! The price for transport and the multi-course lunch with wine? €11 in 2023 – email ahead to book a spot.

About 2.5 hours north of Lisbon lies a handful of quaint Schist Villages (Aldeias de Xisto) of Góis. There’s a problem with these remote, hard-to-reach stone villages – they’ve been slowly depopulating. Almost two decades ago the area restarted old carnival traditions based on interviews with elderly residents to bring back some of the magic, chaos and charm of the old days.

Full event run-down: The traditional entrudo carnival of the Schist Villages

Getting there: Aigra Nova is a one-person Schist Village, around 2.5-hours from Lisbon and two hours from Porto. If you don’t have a car, the most efficient journey is a train to Coimbra then a 50-minute taxi. Alternatively, you could take a local bus from Coimbra to Lousã, then a 20-minute taxi to the remote village.

Where to stay: Aigra Nova is very, very small. We stayed at a small and humble guesthouse, Casa D’Avó Mila, in the village of Vila Nova do Ceira, which was close enough to the action. You could also try hotels in Goís, which is the biggest town of the area. We only stayed one night and drove home to Lisbon after the Sunday fun.

Wooden masks, hay suits & bells: Entrudo de Lazarim

Where: Lazarim, Douro Valley, North Portugal

Each whimsical wooden mask is carved from a single tree trunk, with every person attempting to outdo the next. These heavy masks give the wearer anonymity, something that links all traditional Portuguese entrudos. In Lazarim rest of the outfit might be a big hay suit, or shaggy hessian sacks, or natural objects sewn into a suit. The goal is to hide your true self so you can run amuck and cause light-hearted trouble without being caught. 

I went to this entrudo in 2024 on Shrove Tuesday and had a blast. After the reading of wills by the Comadre and Compadre, the fire is lit, the effigy burns (with fireworks!) and then the feast begins! We’d seen steaming iron cauldrons of feijoada (a hearty bean and meat stew) and caldo de farinha (a corn flour soup with cabbage and smoked meats) cook over open fires all afternoon, and finally got to tuck in. By 6pm most had gone home, but my girlfriends and I found ourselves in what felt like the only tiny bar, eating bifanas (pork sandwiches) and dancing to an accordian.

Getting there: Lazarim is a small village south of the Douro River. It’s a 90-minute drive from Porto, or a 3.5-hour drive from Lisbon. There’s a direct bus from Porto and from Lisbon with Rede Expressos to Lamego. Then you’ll need to take a 20-minute taxi. You can also take the train to Resende and then a 30-minute taxi.

Where to stay: As a rural village, there isn’t a lot of accommodation so book your guesthouse ahead or stay in nearby Lamego.

Read next: 16 most beautiful villages and small towns in Portugal

Sheepskin, screams & streamers: Carnaval de Vale de Ílhavo

Where: Ílhavo, Aveiro, Central Portugal

“Cardadores” take to the streets of Vale de Ílhavo in wild and wonderful bird-like costumes. As they run, bells rattle and colourful headdress flow majestically in the breeze. Groups of local single men craft their own costumes, with masks made from white sheepskin with red-painted cork around the eyes and mouth. Their head is covered by long flowing coloured ribbons, the moustache is made from horse or ox hair, and the pièce de résistance is a long and phallic red nose made from red cloth.

As part of this carnival character, the young men learn some specific dances and howls, and with their identities hidden they go out to “card” girls. They carry carding paddles – the traditional tool you’d use to prepare fibres like wool or linen to be spun into fabric. The Cardadores run through the crowds, causing a ruckus with whistles and bells, leaps and bounds, look for ladies (or, more recently, men too) ripe for this ritual. It sounds like the carding paddles used to have spikes, but now Cardadores only have sandpaper (thank goodness).

I went in 2024 on Fat Sunday and it was super fun to experience. This carnival is really small – tiny, actually – and the majority of the 3pm parade is more modern with floats of kids, drum lines and community groups adding up to around 400 people. The Cardadores came through at the start in a flurry of activity and noise. We were able to loop around and catch them a second time. This town is fmous for its bread, so try the chorizo bread baked in the bakery on wheels that went by! After, there wasn’t much to do but Aveiro is nearby.

Getting there: This carnival is one of the most accessible. It’s just a 15-minute drive south of Aveiro, Portugal’s sixth-largest city and a fun university town. It’s one hour south of Porto, and 2.5 from Lisbon. If you don’t have a car, it’s easy to take a train to Aveiro – or a slower service might stop at Quintas station, which is marginally closer.

Where to stay: Vale Ilhavo is so close to Aveiro and you can find great hotels and guesthouses in the small city, like Up Sal.

Flames, feasting & false marriages: Entrudo de Vila Boa de Ousilhão

Where: Vila Boa de Ousilhão, Vinhais, Trás-os-Montes, North Portugal

Podence might be best known for its caretos but it’s not the only Trás-os-Montes village with a similar pre-Roman ritual. In Vila Boa de Ousilhão, a further 36 kilometres north of Podence, the remote Vinhais village celebrates Shrovetide with similar festivities, though locals call them mascaras here. 

Men dress up as demons, taking to the streets in search of girls to “rattle”. They wear colourful fringed woollen costumes in red and pink tones, and wear masks carved from chestnut wood or made from tin. They rove around, entering houses and cellars, to eat and drink as they please, and throw flour and water at their neighbours.

This carnival still manages to fly under the radar, maintaining a local feel – though outsiders are welcome. The mascaras steal objects and take them to a huge community bonfire, which helps warm cold souls on a February day at some 700 metres of altitude. The drunken devils dance, scream, and rattle around the roaring flames, with those brave (or stupid) enough leaping across the fire.

After there’s a huge communal feast with soup, smoked meats, grilled meats, rice pudding and even more wine. Then false “marriages” among the young locals are announced, and a ball commences. At midnight, when Lent begins, the couples cease to exist. Until then, there’s dancing, drinking, and debauchery ensues.

Getting there: Vila Boa de Ousilhão is located about 2.5 hours from Porto and five from Lisbon. Yes, it’s remote! If you don’t have a car, the closest large town is Vinhais (20 minutes), but you’ll find better transport to the small city of Bragança (30 minutes away). You can take a direct bus to Bragança from Porto and then a local bus to Vinhais and then Ousilhão – or a more direct taxi. Alternatively, there’s a small flight between Cascais (near Lisbon) and Bragança.

Where to stay: Ousilhão is a tiny village, so you’ll more likely find a guesthouse in Vinhais or Bragança and drive in for the festivities.

A thousand devils on the loose: Mil Diabos à Solta

Where: Vinhais, Trás-os-Montes, North Portugal

The most daring girls, who shout from balconies and windows and challenge the devil are captured and placed in an ox cart and paraded through the streets of Vinhais. Around them more than a thousand devils cackle, scream and run amuck on a frosty winter night.

This procession of devils follow a giant death character to a final point, where the imprisoned girls will be judged and purified, and a black cloak that covers the head of the giant death character will be burnt, revealing the face of the devil himself.

“Quem pró rosto da morte olhar, por mais um ano a irá afastar” – Who looks the devil in the face will keep him away for another year.

Unlike the other pagan entrudo traditions, which take place in the days up to Lent, Mil Diabos à Solta originally took place on Ash Wednesday. In its current form, this party has been stretched out to the following weekend, with the fun happening the Saturday after Shrove Tuesday – so if you have the time and a car you could spend a wild and wicked week road-tripping across the north of Portugal in search of the devil himself.

This unusual carnival ritual marks the end of the long dark winter, and welcomes the lightness of spring. While the origins of this parade and festivity are unknown, some interpretations place it in the Roman Lupercais, Middle Ages, or the Franciscans.

After a thousand devils are let loose on the streets of Vinhais, there’s a feast (of course) with plenty of food, wine, and music. 

Getting there: Vinhais is located about 2.5 hours from Porto and five from Lisbon. If you don’t have a car, take a direct bus to Bragança from Porto and then a local RodoNorte bus to Vinhais or a more direct taxi. Alternatively, there’s a small flight between Cascais (near Lisbon) and Bragança.

Where to stay: Vinhais is large enough to have plenty of accommodation options.

Red skirts, horns, and rainbow streamers: Caretos da Lagoa de Mira

Where: Mira, Central Portugal

The colourful caretos of Lagoa de Mira look like a fun version of the devil. Apparently two dozen or so men join the fanfare each year with red socks, red skirts and a campina – an extravangant and oversized headpiece with a mask, giant animal horns and rainbow streamers flowing from the back. You might see them on the streets from Domingo Magro (skinny Sunday), which falls the full week ahead of carnival, along with Domingo Gordo (Fat Sunday) and Shrove Tuesday.

Each man’s red skirt has two black stripes near the hem with an apron over the top. A whtie shirt is adorned with two leather belts – covered in bells and cowbells – crossed over the chest. Every campina is unique as the wearer makes his own, though mask usually has a large nose and the tongue sticking out. Finally, they carry a stick – ideal for causing mischief.

There’s a cute and short 15-minute documentary here on Facebook if you’re interested.

Getting there: This carnival is just over a two-hour drive north of Lisbon and 70 minutes south of Porto. You might be able to combine it with the carnival in Vale de Ílhavo. Public transport is virtually impossible so you’ll need a car.

Where to stay: I’d try to stay in the larger towns of Mira or Praia da Mira nearby. Or Lagoa de Mira is about 30 minutes south of Aveiro and you can find great hotels and guesthouses in the small city, like Up Sal.

A parade of caretos from Portugal & Spain: Carnaval dos Caretos 

Where: Bragança, Trás-os-Montes, North Portugal

Dozens of masked caretos from across Spain and Portugal descend on the small inland city of Bragança. In colourful costumes, crazy masks, and with big cow bells, the caretos take the streets in a huge parade, out to scare women while dancing to the sound of traditional tunes. After, there’s the “Queima do Mascareto” or burning of the devil, with a huge effigy set alight in dramatic fashion.

It’ll usually start around 5pm in Praça Cavaleiro Ferreira on the weekend before the main Carnival events. At the same time Brangança usually holds a food festival celebrating a regional delicacy: butelo and casulas (smoked sausage with bones and dried bean shells). This region of Portugal is famous for its smoked meats and sausages, so whatever you eat you’re in for a treat.

Getting there: Bragança is located about two hours from Porto and five from Lisbon. If you don’t have a car, take a direct bus to Bragança from Porto. Alternatively, there’s a small flight between Cascais (near Lisbon) and Bragança.

Where to stay: Bragança is the capital of Trás-os-Montes and has plenty of accommodation options.

Modern Portuguese carnivals

The following Portuguese Carnivals are of a different character entirely. Usually there will be a few days of fun with a big parade of floats, carnival rides, and big concerts. You’ll find men dressed as women, and people dress up for fun. These festivities are very family-friendly and feel more like a spring carnival. Often the local council also sets up a big stage or two for huge concerts with Portuguese artists and musicians.

Ovar Carnival

Ovar, close to Aveiro, is one of the biggest events, with weeks of programming. The three main parades count on some 2,000 extras, plus you’ll find exhibitions, street theatre and concerts.

Torres Vedras Carnival

Torres Vedras throws a five-day party referred to as the “most Portuguese Carnival in Portugal” with parades of floats, DJs and stages. The main parade days are Sunday and Carnival Tuesday.

Sesimbra Carnival

This is a big celebration for the town with samba school parades, mask competitions, clowns, street theatre and more.

Sines Carnival

For more than 100 years this carnival has brought three days of fun to the port city, starting with the “Carnaval dos Pequeninos” for kids. Expect fun both day and night with events that poke fun at politics and religion, such as a matrafona parade, senior masquerade ball and a clumsy football tournament.

Loulé Carnival

In the Algarve, the Loulé Carnival is the one to catch with samba schools parading through the city, along with big floats and giant characters that make fun of politics and society.

Madeira Carnival

Funchal might be the events capital of Portugal. The main city on Madeira Island hosts huge events and festivals throughout the year, and carnival is just another excuse for a huge party and parade. Expect two huge parades, plus plenty of parties at hotels.

Other traditional Portuguese winter carnivals

If you like the vibe of Portugal’s ancient carnival traditions but can’t attend in February, look out for other traditional Portuguese carnivals and events with a pagan root that also feature fire, feasting and often caretos.

December pagan carnivals

In the remote northwest of Portugal, the town of Torre de Dona Chama celebrates on December 25 and 26 with a Christmas bonfire, feasting, and a parade. As does the village of Ousilhão, which hosts the Festa de Santo Estêvão e Caretos de Ousilhão to celebrate the Winter Solstice on December 25 and 26. The devil runs the streets of Bemposta do Mogadouro twice a year, when he’s let loose on December 26 and January 1.

Also in the Bragança area, the Caretos de Varge are let loose over three days, from December 24 to 26. Apparently on the final day the whole village must be present when the bagpiper starts at 6am, with latecomers being thrown in the river! And the Caretos de Grijó perform various rites on December 26 and 27 during the Festas de Santo Estêvão.

January traditional carnivals

Between January 1 and 6, the traditional Festa dos Reis de Salsas takes place in Bragança. The main event is a big parade with colourful caretos and loud cowbells, drums and bagpipes. It ends with a bonfire and burning of a giant careto effigy. 

So, that’s everything I could find about traditional Portuguese carnivals and entrudo traditions. Did I miss something cool? Are you planning to attend one? Leave me a comment…

Read next:

• 22 most beautiful castles in Portugal
• 16 most beautiful villages and small towns in Portugal
• Cork masks, a burning effigy and plenty of wine: the traditional Schist Villages carnival
• Guide to the best Douro Valley winery tours

The post Devil on the loose: 8 traditional pagan carnivals to attend in Portugal appeared first on Olá Daniela.

Invisible, my friends and I quietly follow a haphazard procession down the only road into the village to where a trio of mini buses awaits. A few dozen cork-masked foliões are too engrossed in the moment to see us. A group of young men, one in a wedding dress, are already three-quarters of the way through what might be their second bottle of wine, dancing to the tunes of an accordion. Another more serious group with three loud gaitas and two drummers are standing in a circle tuning up for a big day. Some foliões are snapping photos of themselves all dressed up, others are making last-minute adjustments to their thick cork mask with a pocket knife.

At this point there are more masked villagers than spectators and it honestly feels like we’ve crashed a private party. The engines start and it’s time to crawl between five villages. Bora!

Where on earth are we?

About 2.5 hours north of Lisbon lies a handful of quaint Schist Villages (Aldeias de Xisto) of Góis. There’s a problem with these remote, hard-to-reach stone villages – they’ve been slowly depopulating. Almost two decades ago the area restarted old carnival traditions based on interviews with elderly residents to bring back some of the magic, chaos and charm of the old days.

What happens during the traditional carnival in the Aldeias do Xisto?

Starting early in Aigra Nova, we piled into a mini bus and followed about 40 cork-masked villagers on a “rally” to four other schist villages before returning to Aigra Nova for lunch, dancing and to burn a pagan effigy. Hell yes!

Read about other traditional carnivals in Portugal: Devil on the loose: 7 traditional pagan carnivals to attend in Portugal

The second village: Pena

The road soon gave way to a dirt track as we reached what might be the most remote village I’ve ever been to in Portugal. In the dewy morning light Pena looked absolutely magical. We piled out of the buses and joined a procession toward the centre of the village. The noisy, cheeky, masked foliões had pockets filled with conkers and started throwing them at each other and the growing mass of bystanders. At some other traditional carnivals in Portugal the villagers act like the devil but these characters are just cheeky. They run amuck moving pot plants and bins – harmless, naughty fun.

The leader stood up on a wall and started shouting into an oversized tin funnel. Even if I was a native Portuguese speaker I would have struggled to understand him through the battered metal cone. The gist was that he was throwing insults and spreading gossip about all the bad things the local villagers did over the past 12 months. 

The fun continues, we moved through the village and down alongside a verdant bubbling creek to where the foliões climbed into an oversized cork tree for a dramatic photo moment. Then it was back in the buses, which is easier said than done.

Villages three, four and five: Cerdeira, Esporão and Ponte do Sótão

The rest of the morning was a blur – we pulled up in three more villages, piling out to run amuck, have a laugh and cause some chaos. At village three there was a long table loaded with cheese, prosciutto, homemade fried doughnuts and snacks. We drank the village bar dry of its 70-cent beers at 10am before moving onto the next one. 

Village four had another long table of help-yourself snacks prepared by the locals, plus free-flowing wine. Yippee! We entered the town hall, ate and danced before piling back into the vans.

At the final village some of the foliões started to become braver, grabbing at the door handles of cars passing by, flicking up windscreen wipers and moving wheelie bins onto the roads. At each village our procession picked up more and more spectators, growing in size as we reached lunch.

Back in Aigra Nova for lunch

Finally, we returned to the first village – Aigra Nova – for lunch at about 1.30pm. We’d prepaid for lunch and the bus, a total of €11 in 2023. When we arrived the village was surprisingly full. Two big tents filled with wooden pop-up benches and tables were heaving with Portuguese families and friends tucking into a feast of roast pork sandwiches and a hearty stew. 

Read Next: 2024 Guide: Best Festivals & Events in Portugal

The small, stone village square was the centre of the universe that afternoon. Just when you thought the tired foliões would drop dead after a huge morning, a back-up band arrived with six (yes, six) accordions to keep the jovial vibe and dancing going until dusk.

The cod and ham challenge

In the centre of the village, an entire salted cod (bacalhau) and whole leg of prosciutto were hanging from the top of a tall wooden pole. In the mid-afternoon, people start cheering as some athletic young men try their hand at reaching the riches at the top. It’s meant to be a great challenge, but the man who won made it look easy.

Burning of the effigy

The best part of a traditional pagan carnival experience in Portugal? About 5pm the tired, quite drunk cork-masked foliões piled into the nearby field where a tall, very rustic effigy stood – with its own oversized cork mask and vintage floral bedsheets for clothing – ready to burn.

I didn’t see them light the anthropomorphised stack of hay and bed sheets as I was too busy watching one of the volunteer organisers try to pull away some of the more inebriated masked locals who were rolling on the grass all too close to the rapidly-burning pole.

In the end, all that’s left is a burnt cork mask.

How to attend

It seems you could just show up to Aigra Nova for lunch if that’s your vibe, but if you’re committed to the village rally I’ve discussed here then you’ll need to email to secure a place on the bus. You can find out more on the Aldeias de Xisto website.

The Entrudo Tradicional das Aldeias do Xisto de Góis always falls in February during carnival (or carnaval) weekend. In 2024, it will be on Sunday February 11.

Where to stay 

We stayed at a small and humble guesthouse, Casa D’Avó Mila, in the village of Vila Nova do Ceira, which was close enough to the action. We only stayed one night and drove home on the Sunday back to Lisbon.

What else to do nearby

The largest nearby village we saw was Góis. It has a supermarket, shops, bars, a beautiful riverfront, and everything you could need. 

The day we arrived we stopped for lunch in Lousã, and then walked the beautiful Passadiços do Cerro da Candosa (Cerro da Candosa Walkways) as the light changed at sunset.

If you’re eager to visit this traditional pagan festival in Portugal or have been to another one I should know about… leave me a comment!

Keep reading…

• Devil on the loose: 7 traditional pagan carnivals to attend in Portugal
• 19 best medieval and historic events in Portugal in 2024
• 2024 Food Festival Guide: Best Gastronomic Events in Portugal
• 36 hours in Coimbra
• 2024 Guide: Best Festivals & Events in Portugal
• Where to eat in Coimbra

The post Cork masks, a burning effigy and plenty of wine: the traditional Schist Villages carnival appeared first on Olá Daniela.

But when these tiles were unveiled back in 1916 they became a subject of great controversy in local newspapers, and even lead to a court case. Let’s dive into why…

The history of Aveiro Train Station’s tiles

The Estação Ferroviária Aveiro originally opened on April 10, 1864 with a small and modest building. Apparently, due to the marshy nature of the land, the embankments sank several times during construction and kept having to be rebuilt.

Aveiro quickly outgrew its small station, and the beautiful tiled white building we see today was built in 1916, designed by architect José Coelho in a traditional Portuguese style. 

Adding tiled panels to train stations was in fashion at the time, and so 50 remarkable blue, yellow and white tile panels were created in the Fonte Nova Factory by artists Francisco Pereira and Licínio Pinto.

The tiled panels feature local figures, famous monuments and natural landscapes that you can see in the Aveiro region. Some of the tile panels feature people dressed for traditional trades; landscapes of traditional agricultural activities; and distinguished locals who contributed to the railway’s construction.

Look closely at the tiles and you’ll see illustrations of the Aveiro salt marshes, Costa Nova, Vouga River, fishermen’s boats, the Bussaco Hotel, Monastery of Alcobaça, Almourol Castle, Barra Lighthouse, and many more.

Read next: 11 best things to do and see in Aveiro

The azulejo controversy of Estação Ferroviária Aveiro 

When the plans to link Porto and Lisbon by railway were being conceived Aveiro was not on the route. Apparently it was at the insistence of notable Portuguese journalist, politician and parliamentary speaker, José Estevão, who was originally from the city and held the position of chamber deputy at the time. He convinced the government to study and change the route to include Aveiro.

When unveiled in 1916 the tile panels caused plenty of debate in the local papers, and even lead to a court case. But why? 

So allegedly the Portuguese train company (Companhia Real dos Caminhos de Ferro Portugueses) was planning to add two figures – José Estevão and Manuel Firmino – side-by-side immortalised in tiles. Both were involved with the construction of the train station, but after major controversies between Manuel Firmino’s family and José Estevão’s supporters, only Manuel Firmino’s panel was confirmed.

A resolution more than 100 years late?

The station was remodelled in 1986, and on the station’s 75th anniversary a new tile panel by Breda was added, created at the Viçorzette Factory in Águeda.

In 2000, two more tile panels were added to the bathrooms, created by F. Lista at the Artecer Factory in Vila Nova de Gaia.

But it wasn’t until April 2018, some 102 years later, that a new tile panel by artist Marcos Muge was added In honour of 19th-century deputy José Estêvão. 

In 2021 the building was rehabilitated and it now acts as the “Porta da Cidade” or City Welcome Gate. Inside you can find local salt, traditional ovos moles sweets, and wines from Bairrada.

Read next: How to spend 48 hours in Porto

How to see all the tiles at Aveiro Train Station

A shiny new passenger terminal was built next door to the original in 2005, so to view all of the azulejos in their glory you’ll need to shuffle along one of the platforms and then exit through the new terminal to reach the outer side of the 1916 tiled building.

Other amazing tiled train stations in Portugal 

Portugal has no shortage of spectacular tiled train stations. If you liked this one, check out the grand entrance hall of Porto’s São Bento Train Station. With 20,000 tiles lining the hall it’s definitely the most magnificent in the country.

Another one that’s worth a visit the beautiful Santarém Train Station, which features similar tiled panels that show scenic highlights and tourism attractions in the area.

Want more #tileoftheday posts? I got you.

Read more #tileoftheday

• Porto’s Capela das Almas
• Porto’s São Bento Train Station
• Sé Cathedral in Porto
• Lisbon’s Convento de Chelas
• Lisbon’s blue tiled streets
• Charming seaside Sesimbra
• Old town of Figueira da Foz
• Algarve’s São Lourenço Church
• Santarém Train Station
• Coimbra’s Capela de São Miguel

The post Controversy & a court case: Aveiro Train Station’s tiles appeared first on Olá Daniela.

This isn’t your average small town Portuguese festival. The Festa dos Tabuleiros happens just once every four years, with the next event in July 2027. It’s a special occasion that transforms the town into a sea of colour. Locals decorate every balcony with drapes, every street with intricate crepe paper designs and, of course, the classic festival vibes that Portugal does so well.

What is Tomar’s Festa dos Tabuleiros (Festival of Trays)?

The Festa dos Tabuleiros is believed to be one of the oldest and largest festivals in Portugal, nowadays seeing over half a million attendees each year. From what I can gather, its roots date back to pagan traditions celebrating the harvest, hence all the bread and flowers. But as with all old things, it’s a lot more complicated than that.

Over time the festival has become wrapped in with the Catholic cult of the Holy Spirit and in particular Saint Isabel and the miracle of the roses. Legend has it that Queen Isabel was helping the poor behind her husband’s back, and one night snuck out with bread in her dress when her husband followed and confronted her. Miraculously, she lifted her dress and revealed only flowers – “they’re roses, senhor!”. In line with the Catholic cult influences, the bread represents the 30 coins over which Judah is said to have betrayed Jesus. 

Read next… Guide to Tomar: Portugal’s city of Templar legends

What’s a tabuleiro?

The tabuleiro (usually translated as tray) is a wicker basket draped in white cloth, that holds a giant bread and flower tower made from five canes and topped off with a crown. The tabuleiro tower is made up of 30 loaves of bread, weighing 400 grams each and is supposed to be the same height as the carrier. The top of the structure is generally decked out with a cross or pigeon (yes, that’s right) of the Holy Spirit. 

When we visited on the biggest day – the Sunday – in July 2019, there were 748 women carrying the tabuleiros, which are made by hand in the months leading up to the procession. Interestingly, the bread is just normal bread and the people making the tabuleiros generally eat a few that “accidentally” break with cheese and presunto (prosciutto) when they finish working. This article is in Portuguese but it has a tonne of beautiful pictures and video of the preparations.

Preparations start almost a year out and the celebrations begin just after Easter, stretching all the way until early July, which is when the real party happens. 

Read next: Annual Guide: Best Festivals & Events in Portugal

The main parade of the Festa dos Tabuleiros

There are a few parades as part of the 10-day Festival of Trays in Tomar, but the main one you want to see is on the Sunday. The parade begins in the town’s central square with a blessing of the Cortejo dos Tabuleiros (the main procession). The women then all rise as one (this is meant to be magical to see, but sadly we couldn’t see it from where we were standing!) and proceed to weave their way through the town, covering upwards of 5km.

Picture this: hours of walking around balancing a 1.5-metre (or more) tower weighing anywhere between 16 and 18kg….you’d want to have done some decent training in preparation. 

We were there for the main procession, but there are so many other events as part of the festival, including the exceedingly cute children’s procession – which is just the same thing but scaled down for kids as young as three. If you arrive on the Saturday before the main parade on Sunday, in the afternoon there are traditional games including a donkey race, wood cutting, quoits, a cart race and more.

Read next… Where to eat in Tomar

A vida é uma festa (life is a party) in Tomar during the Festa dos Tabuleiros

Outside of the procession itself, the whole town is decked out in a breathtaking display of crepe paper flowers, leaves and intricate decorations. Whole streets transform from residential alleyways to Alice in Wonderland-like colourful floral paper landscapes. Being a Portuguese cultural festival, there’s also music and marching bands, plus beer, wine and food spilling from every alleyway, corner and doorway all day and night. 

Related Blog: Sardines and pimba: Everything You Need To Know About Lisbon’s Santos Populares Festival

Getting to Tomar

It’s a two-hour train ride north from Lisbon to Tomar’s Festa dos Tabuleiros. Regular trains run from Santa Apolonia station to Tomar and take approximately two hours. Since it is outside the greater Lisbon region you’ll need a ticket from CP and it’s cheaper if you purchase online a few weeks in advance.

By car, Tomar is just a 90-minute drive from Lisbon or just under two-hours from Porto.

We almost didn’t make the trip when we went in 2019 as I had a work shift that day. In hindsight, I’m so thankful we made the effort as otherwise we would have missed out on one of the most visually overwhelming cultural festivals I’ve ever seen.

Read next… Best day trips from Tomar

Where to stay in Tomar

Tomar is a beautiful town that is most famous for its Templar history, with a practically intact castle and church. To squeeze in festival fun and sightseeing, you might like to stay overnight or for a couple of days. If there are still rooms available, Hotel República is gorgeous and on the central square, or try Casa dos Oficios nearby. Arcos 61 rents cute little apartments in town, as does Flattered to be in Tomar. Find more Tomar accommodation here.

The next Festa dos Tabuleiros will fall in July 2027. Find out more information on the official website.

Keep reading…

• Devil on the loose: 7 traditional pagan carnivals to attend in Portugal
• Best medieval and historic events in Portugal
• Food Festival Guide: Best Gastronomic Events in Portugal
• Where to eat in Viana do Castelo
• Where to eat in Guimarães: the best restaurants and taverns
• What to eat in the Azores Islands

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