restaurant guide Archives - Olá Daniela https://oladaniela.com/tag/restaurant-guide/ Portugal Travel, Food & Culture Blog Fri, 02 Jan 2026 00:13:38 +0000 en-AU hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.4 https://oladaniela.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/cropped-Daniela-small-circle-v5-32x32.png restaurant guide Archives - Olá Daniela https://oladaniela.com/tag/restaurant-guide/ 32 32 Local’s guide to Lisbon’s best restaurants: 42 great places to eat (2026) https://oladaniela.com/food-guide-lisbon/ https://oladaniela.com/food-guide-lisbon/#comments Sat, 30 Nov 2024 16:27:00 +0000 http://oladaniela.com/?p=6886 A perfectly salted fish cooked over coals. A juicy tomato plucked in the peak of summer. The crunch of a pastel de nata, still warm from the oven. Portuguese food is a lesson in perfectly executed simplicity.

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A perfectly salted fish cooked over coals. A juicy tomato plucked in the peak of summer, drenched in fresh olive oil and tangy white wine vinegar. The crunch of a pastel de nata, still warm from the oven. Portuguese food is a lesson in perfectly executed simplicity.

You eat well in Lisbon, without spending a lot – especially if you like lunch. I can’t get enough of the barebones local places where a lunch menu gives you a meal, soup, coffee, beer or wine, dessert and change from a €10 note. Yes, even in this economy.

Eating out at Lisbon restaurants you’ll find the first European offering from a respected Japanese joint through to Portuguese classics at every price point. Generally speaking, the Portuguese food is excellent and the international food can leave a little bit to be desired but there are shining exceptions to both of those rules.

Portuguese food isn’t easy to sum up in a sentence or two so it’s worth taking a look at my guide to 25 of the most common dishes before you get started.

Tips: table snacks dropped on your table are not free. Ask them to take them away if you don’t want them. Also a “dose” feeds two people, so a half dose is for one. Portuguese maths! When you leave the city, don’t be afraid to try small town tascas – often you’ll eat like royalty.

Looking for a serious food tour in Lisbon? 🍴 Go beyond the typical tourist bites with Culinary Backstreets. I highly recommend their four unique Lisbon food tours that dive deep into the city’s seafood traditions, colonial influences, and lesser-known neighborhoods.

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Favourite restaurants and tascas for Portuguese food in Lisbon

In Australia I loved fine dining and wild new concepts but since moving here in 2018 I prefer to hunt out the local gems and Lisbon restaurants that don’t make the guidebooks or listicles, or chef-owned Lisbon restaurants rediscovering what Portuguese food can be. I’ve split this section into traditional for my favourite basic, classic, no frills spots, and progressive Lisbon restaurants for the local chefs doing nose-to-tail dining or modern Portuguese without the ego. 

Read next… My favourite tascas in Lisbon: Where to eat traditional Portuguese food

Read next… Guide to Lisbon’s hottest tables for 2025

Lisbon’s best traditional Portuguese restaurants

Ultimo Porto – €€

For the best grilled fish in Lisbon, go to Ultimo Porto. The unusual waterfront restaurant is jammed up against the docks, so don’t be surprised if giant trucks carting shipping containers whiz past a terrace full of suits. It’s all part of the charm. Pick a fish, wait for the grill and tuck in. It’s only open for lunch.

📍 Address: R. Gen. Gomes Araújo 1, 1350-352 Lisboa (Santos)
🍴 What to order: grilled fish and amêijoas à bulhão pato (clams with garlic and coriander)
🗓 Reservations: By phone, recommended

Note: It’s tricky to find this spot by car as Google Maps leads you astray. I recommend going to “Rocha do Conde d’Óbidos” and crossing the pedestrian-only swing bridge of the same name. On weekends that swing bridge is permanently left open, so you’ll have to gothe long way around on Saturdays.

O Tachadas – €€

At the front of this tiny tasca, the grill chef’s eyes barely stray from whatever telenovela or old movie is on the TV as he flips steaks, squid and pork chops over the flames. O Tachadas is a typical old-fashioned tasca and I love it. We like to come for a giant T-bone steak the size of your (rather large) plate. Be prepared for the “whack, whack, whack” as your €16ish cut of steak is hacked off the bone on a chopping block right next to the grill. 

📍 Address: Rua da Esperança 178, 1200-808 Lisboa (Santos)
🍴 What to order: costeleta de novilho (the steak), bacalhau à Bras (codfish with potato and egg)
🗓 Reservations: By phone, recommended

Note: The Portuguese tend to leave steak a little on the rare side (which I love) so you may have to send it back for a second grilling if you like anything beyond medium rare.

Tasquinha do Lagarto – €

Open since 1973, this tasca started as a café and snack bar with games tables and has since become one of Lisbon’s best addresses. The first thing you’ll notice in Tasquinha do Lagarto is the sports paraphernalia lining every wall, particularly that of Lisbon’s football team Sporting. Inside the menu is short but well priced. I’ve tried almost all of it and every visit the food has been fantastic. 

📍 Address: R. de Campolide 258, Lisboa (Campolide)
🍴 What to order: atum cebolada (tuna and onions), polvo á lagaeiro (baked octopus with potatoes)
🗓 Reservations: by phone

Zé da Mouraria – €

Bring friends when you dine at Zé da Mouraria. And don’t turn up for dinner, like we did the first three times (whoops). At first glance, the prices seem steeper than other spots, but order a meal and they’ll deliver an entire frying pan or dinner tray of food. My guess is one dish is enough to feed three. Unless you want to follow in the footsteps of a solo diner we watched quickly make new friends when his family sized meal arrived.

📍 Address: R. João do Outeiro 24, 1100-292 Lisboa (Mouraria) + now a second and third location.
🍴 What to order: bacalhau com grão (salted cod with chickpeas)
🗓 Reservations: Call ahead – numbers here

Want someone to shortcut your Portugal research? ➼ Talk to me – I offer 1:1 video calls and can plan your perfect Portugal itinerary. Find out more here.

Read next… Where to find the best Portuguese street food and snacks in Lisbon

Zé dos Cornos – €

Ribs, ribs, ribs. They do them savoury style in Portugal, garlicky and salty instead of drowned in barbecue sauce. Share a rack straight off the charcoal grill for €12 with a tomato salad and bean rice. Zé dos Cornos ticks all the tasca (cheap restaurant) boxes. There are tiles on the wall, paper tablecloths, the news or football on the TV and an owner/chef/waiter that shows his love for his regulars by teasing them relentlessly. There’s always a line but (as with most places) they’ll happily serve you beers while you wait on the street. And we all know that a queue with a beer is basically a bar anyway. 

📍 Address: Beco Surradores 5, 1100-591 Lisboa (Mouraria)
🍴 What to order: Piano (ribs)
🗓 Reservations: Show up early or prepare to wait

Zé is short for José, a name that is very popular generally and apparently even more popular in Lisbon among chefs and restaurant owners.

Casa do Alentejo – €

This cultural club set in a historic palace is an ode to my favourite region of Portugal. It happens to be hidden in plain sight on one of Lisbon’s most touristic streets. Some in-the-know tourists may pause and pop their heads in to snap pictures of the spectacular courtyard, straight out of Morocco, but they’re missing the best part. Let the small plates stack up as you knock back beers in the courtyard of the Tavern at Casa do Alentejo and prepare for the (pleasant) surprise when you see your bill at the end. For something more formal or spectacular, head upstairs to the restaurant where ornate banquet halls and reasonably priced traditional meals beckon.

📍 Address: R. das Portas de Santo Antão 58, 1150-268 Lisboa (Restauradores/Rossio)
🍴 What to order: migas (bread mash), flaming chorizo
🗓 Reservations: You can book the upstairs restaurant (also gorgeous) online, or call the tavern for an inside table. They don’t take terrace bookings.

Solar dos Nunes — €€/€€€

Solar dos Nunes is a Lisbon institution open since 1988, which becomes apparent when you step inside the front door to find a cosy space with white tablecloths and photo frames covering every wall. This Portuguese restaurant specialises in Alentejo cuisine, and it’s picked up many awards and had many celebrity faces pass through. It has an old-world European feel, the sort of place to expect a business lunch to stretch out past  4pm. On the menu you’ll find everything from fan favourites to obscure recipes. Most importantly, it often has sericaia, my favourite dessert. 

📍 Address: R. dos Lusíadas 68, 1300-366 Lisboa (Alcântara)
🍴 What to order: delicious presunto, stewed boar
🗓 Reservations: By phone or online, recommended

Vida de Tasca – €

Vida de Tasca was my most anticipated Lisbon restaurant opening for 2024. In a city where ramen and burger bars are swallowing up old classics at an alarming rate Chef Leonor Godinho opened up a new tasca (local tavern) in the bones of Casa Alberto. The place is an ode to tasca culture, and little more has been done than a lick of paint on the chairs. As a trained chef, Godinho adds those small touches to serve cooked-to-order croquettes and pasteís de bacalhau alongside a short menu with two daily specials, where you’ll always find Lisbon’s favourite dish, the bitoque (thin steak with fried egg and sauce). 

📍 Address: R. Moniz Barreto 7, 1700-306 Lisboa (Roma)
🍴 What to order: bitoque (thin steak with egg
🗓 Reservations: Book ahead online or by phone

Ramiro – €€€

Before your beer has finished a waiter drops another in front of you. Fortunate, because you’re doing serious manual labour for your meal, with a small hammer bang-bang-banging crab legs open to reach the tender flesh. Ramiro, the most famous Lisbon seafood restaurant, isn’t a quiet date night. It’s the sort of place to take friends and share bowls of clams swimming in olive oil, garlic and coriander or experience the life-changing sweetest of a carabineiro (scarlet prawn). Cheap, no. Worth it, yes.

📍 Address: Av. Alm. Reis 1 H, 1150-007 Lisboa (Intendente)
🍴 What to order: seafood by weight – try the carabineiro (scarlet prawn)
🗓 Reservations: Book ahead online or by phone, or show up and wait

Read next… How to spend 48 hours in Lisbon

Espaco Açores – €€

If you can’t make it to the islands of the Azores, eating the food is the next best thing. An Azorean friend took us to Espaco Açores and it opened my mind a little, even after briefly visiting the spectacular Atlantic archipelago. If you’ve visited any of the Azorean islands or Madeira you’ll know how great lapas grelhadas (grilled limpets) are. Don’t miss the chance to try the polvo guisado (octopus stew) either.

📍 Address: Largo da Boa-Hora à Ajuda 19, 1300-098 Lisboa (Ajuda)
🍴 What to order: limpets, polvo guisado (octopus stew)
🗓 Reservations: It’s possible to book online or walk in.

O Lutador – €/€€

O Lutador is my local terrace bar and tasca where it’s fun to drop in for a cheeky bifana and imperial (that’s a pork sandwich and baby beer). In summer, locals stretch out here with plates of tiny snails, pica-pau and beer. The meals at this Lisbon restaurant are mostly under €15, but the snack game here is their strong suit.

📍 Address: R. da Junqueira 1C, 1300-383 Lisboa (Alcântara)
🍴 What to order: pica pau (chopped steak in gravy with pickles), arroz de lingueirão (razor clam rice)
🗓 Reservations: Go early for a terrace table, or book online

Heading to Porto? Read my guide on where to eat in Porto and discover Porto’s best coffee shops.

Carvoaria Jacto – €€/€€€

Don’t take your vegetarian friends to Carvoaria Jacto, a Lisbon steak institution that opened in 1953. Back then it would have been a tiny carvoaria or shop that sold coal. These days it’s a huge steak temple where the best cuts are seasoned and grilled over charcoal. In a sense the product has changed, but the soul and address is the same. While you’re going here for the (steak examples), the side of mushroom risotto is unmissable. Book ahead!

📍 Address: R. Maria Andrade 6A, 1170-216 Lisboa (Anjos)
🍴 What to order: steak, the best you can afford
🗓 Reservations: Book ahead!

Ponto Final – €€

You come here for the unforgettable view but fortunately the food is good too. You’ll need to take a 10-minute ferry ride to the south bank of the river and walk past the graffiti-covered abandoned warehouses that line the water. Definitely book a table (at least a month or two) ahead at Ponto Final to get a primo spot on the pier for sunset drinks and dinner with magical views across the water to Lisbon and out to sea. Apparently you can show up and queue for a while if you fail to book.

📍 Address: R. do Ginjal 72, 2800-285 Almada (Cacilhas)
🍴 What to order: fish rice, grilled fish
🗓 Reservations: Book months in advance! You can also try Atira-te ao Rio next door, which has a terrace with the same view.

Honestly this is just the beginning of my list of the best local and traditional restaurants to eat at in Lisbon. For extended reading, bookmark or pin my favourite 34 tascas in Lisbon and discover the best old-school, cheap eats.

Lisbon’s best progressive or modern Portuguese restaurants

Canalha – €€/€€€

If you’re a bit of a food nerd and a fan of chefs (guilty) then you have to get a table at Canalha. Top Portuguese chef João Rodrigues said goodbye to the two-star Michelin restaurant where he worked to embark on a year-long project popping up once a month in different regions of Portugal. It was an insanely ambitious and successful project, connecting local chefs and producers with mad food lovers. On his return he opened Canalha, which is run by chef Lívia Orofino. 

At its heart, Canalha might be best described as a produce-driven Portuguese bistro. I recall him describing it as a neighbourhood spot where you could spend €20 to €200, so everyone is welcome. Like traditional Portuguese tascas you’ll find a daily menu with well-priced dishes of the day. Then there’s a menu of seasonally changing dishes, and finally you can choose from what’s come in with the fisherman. That’s where you’ll do damage to the credit card! Book ahead.

📍 Address: R. da Junqueira 207, 1300-338 Lisboa (Belém)
🍴 What to order: Daily specials, carabineiro (scarlet prawn) pasta, anything in season
🗓 Reservations: Book ahead online or by phone

Read next… Where to eat in Belém or Local’s guide to Belém: Best things to do

O Velho Eurico – €

We first discovered O Velho Eurico when it was a killer, old-school tasca with some of the best polvo a lagareiro (olive oil octopus) and bacalhau no forno (baked salted cod) around. The owner retired, the name stayed and a surprise meal of petiscos (small plates like tapas) appeared one day with the 21-year-old Zé Paulo Rocha at the helm. At the new-old Eurico a hand-written chalkboard displays traditional dishes, cooked and eaten by parents, grandparents and great grandparents across Portugal, now made here buzzing with attitude. It’s one of Lisbon’s best modern Portuguese taverns or restaurants, so book ahead.

📍 Address: Largo São Cristóvão nº3, 1100-179 Lisboa (Castelo/Baixa)
🍴 What to order: Lamb croquettes, arroz de pato, chambão sandwich…. 
🗓 Reservations: Essential. Book online months ahead… or show up just before opening and queue. I believe they keep some tables free and only book the first seating, so when tables turn over you’ll get one.

Taberna Sal Grosso – €

Eating here is always great, but somehow everything tastes even best when you book the big table and order everything on the menu at Taberna Sal Grosso. A big black chalkboard dictates the dishes of the moment – usually small and medium-sized plates with everything from tuna pica pau to fried quail to sweet ribs. The food has a distinctively Portuguese root, but it’s more influenced by the world than other modern taverns in Lisbon. 

📍 Address: Calçada do Forte 22, 1100-256 Lisboa (Alfama) & R. Correia Garção 15, 1200-640 Lisboa (São Bento)
🍴 What to order: Fried baby squid, bacalhau (salted cod), lamb sandwich 
🗓 Reservations: Essential – book online.

Corrupio – €€

It was love at first sight when I entered Corrupio, a downtown Portuguese diner centred around a huge central bar. Even with groups of three or four I prefer to sit at the bar here as you can watch the chefs at work – putting modern spins on traditional Portuguese dishes – and eat atop a piece of art (tile art, no less). To round it out they play good Portuguese music and serve wines from smaller local producers. Two favourites of mine are the corvina (croaker) rice and the octopus salad.

📍 Address: R. Moeda 1 F/G, 1200-275 Lisboa (Cais do Sodré)
🍴 What to order: Octopus salad, corvina rice 
🗓 Reservations: Best to book online.

Read next: Best places to eat octopus in Lisbon

Obra – €€

Located along Lisbon’s luscious Green Street, Obra is a gem hiding in plain sight. The menu, with roots in Portuguese cooking, is designed to share. Yet the portions are generous  – so bring a few friends! The prawn brioche, a sandwich stuffed with creamy camarão, is a new classic, and I loved the rich depth of the octopus rice. There seemed to be a good number of vegetarian dishes too in case you’re with a vegetarian friend.

📍 Address: R. da Silva 21, 1200-446 Lisboa (“Green Street”, Santos)
🍴 What to order: Prawn brioche sandwich, octopus rice
🗓 Reservations: Book via Instagram if you can

Taberna da Rua das Flores – €€

I hate queues so I rarely make it to this beautiful restaurant, Taberna da Rua das Flores, which seems to be firmly on the tourist radar as one of Lisbon’s best restaurants. Opened by the brilliant André Magalhães, this was the first of Lisbon’s modern tavern movement, serving delicious traditional dishes with a chef touch in a casual setting. Here you’ll find a menu of top quality local produce used to create both Portuguese plates and dishes inspired by the world. The blackboard changes seasonally, so you never know what will be on offer – but if there scallops are there, don’t miss them.

📍 Address: Rua das Flores 103 109, 1200-194 Lisboa (Chiado)
🍴 What to order: Scallops, whatever sounds good on the blackboard
🗓 Reservations: Not possible – go early

Wish someone could shortcut your Portugal research? ➼ Talk to me – I offer 1:1 video calls to help people cut through the noise and plan a perfect Portugal itinerary. Find out more here.

ZunZum – €€

Portugal’s top female chef, Marlene Vieira, is behind ZunZum, a clean and modern gastrobar. The former MasterChef judge is best known for elevating Portuguese cuisine to another level and highlights classic Portuguese ingredients in fresh, modern ways. Better yet, the bar mixes a great cocktail and there’s a grocer to take home Portuguese goods.

📍 Address: Terminal de Cruzeiros de Lisboa, Av. Infante D. Henrique Doca, R. do Jardim do Tabaco do, 1100-651 Lisboa (Alfama)
🍴 What to order: The menu changes season-to-season, go at lunch for the well-priced daily special
🗓 Reservations: Book ahead if you can, try a walk-in if not

Read next… Best boat tours in Lisbon

Brilhante – €€€

For a touch of old-world European dining with a Portuguese twist, try Brilhante. Dare I say this plush red-velvet, gold and leather-clad diner – where life revolves around the bar or in a cosy booth – would make for a brilliant date night. Chef Luís Gaspar has designed a deluxe menu that pays homage to 19th-century Lisbon cafés, with a classic steak (served with a creamy peppery sauce) at the menu’s heart. Beyond that you can indulge with lobster rice, caviar, beef tartare, foie gras and more.

📍 Address: R. Moeda 1G, 1200-066 Lisboa (Cais do Sodré)
🍴 What to order: bife à Brilhante (the signature steak), lobster rice
🗓 Reservations: Book ahead if you can, try a walk-in if not

Alma – €€€€ **

With two Michelin stars, chef Henrique Sá Pessoa’s Alma isn’t your everyday diner. There are two tasting menus: one that highlight classic Portuguese flavours, and the other that heroes the coast. With a dining partner you can do both and experience the best of the two. There’s also a la carte if you’re after a real treat yo’self lunch with mains around €40. As you’d expect at a Michelin-starred spot, the service is top, the snacks are great and the wine-list is long.

📍 Address: R. Anchieta 15, 1200-224 Lisboa (Chiado)
🍴 What to order: Tasting menu
🗓 Reservations: Required

Taberna Albricoque – €€

A stunning century-old dining room meets progressive Portuguese snacks at Taberna Albricoque. This restaurant, opened in 2019 by talented local chef Bertílio Gomes dishes up plates and petiscos inspired by the Algarve region in the south of Portugal. Here you’ll find cockle-filled pastries, oysters from the Ria Formosa and razor clams swimming in garlic and olive oil. It’s a gem next to Lisbon’s Santa Apolonia, where you’ll take a train to Porto, and right by Alfama, Lisbon’s oldest suburb and a place I associate with old ladies and hordes of tourists. Luckily it’s anything but generic.

📍 Address: Rua dos Caminhos de Ferro nº98, 1100-395 Lisboa (Alfama/Santa Apolonia)
🍴 What to order: rissol de berbigão (signature cockle pastry) and anything seafood
🗓 Reservations: Book ahead if you can, try a walk-in if not

Read next: Where to find the best Portuguese street food and snacks in Lisbon

Pigmeu – €€

This nose-to-tail pig concept run by local chef Miguel Azevedo Peres is all about pig. The Pigmeu menu nails the perfect mix of traditional and inventive and the bifana is killer, served in a gravy. During the snail season the bacon fat (toucinho) the chef uses really takes the summer staple to a new level. The testicles pica pau? Well, it’s not a favourite version of that dish, but certainly worth trying. The wine list also extends to a few natural and organic options you’re not likely to find at the average tasca

📍 Address: R. 4 de Infantaria 68, 1350-274 Lisboa (Campo de Ourique)
🍴 What to order: The bifana, don’t miss it
🗓 Reservations: Book ahead if you can, try a walk-in if not

O Frade – €€

Right now I’m loving the bold class of young Portuguese chefs pushing boundaries within their own cuisine. Cousins Carlos Afonso and Sérgio Frade’s progressive take on Alentejo flavours at O Frade earned them a Michelin Bib Gourmand in 2020. Everything is fantastic, but definitely order one of the killer rice dishes: rice with lobster, rice with corvina fish, rice with duck. 

📍 Address: Calçada da Ajuda 14, 1300-598 Lisboa (Belém)
🍴 What to order: The menu changes season-to-season, go at lunch for the well-priced daily special
Reservations: Book ahead if you can, try a walk-in if not

My favourite restaurants for non-Portuguese food in Lisbon

Rosetta’s – €€

It was unexpected love at first bite in Rosetta’s, a tiny produce-driven share-plate restaurant in Bairro Alto. To be honest, I entered with suspicion – in 2024 Lisbon received a huge wave of contemporary share plate spots where you’ll pay too much for very little, but to Rosetta’s I tip my hat. The dish I saw blowing up on Instagram was the crumbed Milanesa with a zesty pea salad, but that was our lowlight. Every other dish – the grilled peaches with burrata, the zucchini fritters with dill, the clams with beurre blanc and smoked ham – were 10/10. Great wine selection too, though on the pricier end.

📍 Address: R. da Rosa 39, 1200-190 Lisboa (Bairro Alto)
🍴 What to order: The menu changes season-to-season, but everything was excellent
🗓 Reservations: Book ahead online

Paloma Negra – €/€€

I’m a harsh taco critic after a recent trip to Mexico – and I’m happy to report I’ve cancelled my cheap flight alerts thanks to Paloma Negra. This little neighbourhood taqueria feels authentic and fun. The margs are strong, the tacos come fast – so order slowly. Go early enough to get one of the plastic tables in the small courtyard out back. I’m still trying to choose my favourite order – the al pastor, birria, carnitas and fried prawn are all really good. As is the aguachile and the oyster shots. 

📍 Address: R. Washington 98A, Lisboa (Penha da Franca)
🍴 What to order: Tacos, tacos, tacos
🗓 Reservations: Not possible

Panda Cantina – €

This Chinese canteen only serves one dish: Chinese ramen. And as you’d expect from a spot with just one dish, Panda Cantina does it really damn well. Have your soup/ramen with pork, beef or tofu (beef is best) and pick a spice level from one to five. Spice wise, I’m a three and Jorge is a four. We’ve both spent plenty of time giggling at Europeans who find paprika or ginger spicy, so be warned that a five is seriously hot. Great spot for lunch or cheap dinner – it’s around €10.50 a bowl. Go early and expect to queue.

📍 Address: There are now 4 locations around town: Baixa, Chiado, Principe Real and Marques
🍴 What to order: Beef ramen is my favourite
🗓 Reservations: Not possible

Read next… Where to eat in Baixa, Lisbon

Bom Bom Bom – €/€€

This spot is more of a vinyl and wine bar than a bistro, so I was pretty impressed by their short yet fantastic menu. There’s a blackboard with a selection of snacky, seasonal dishes such as burrata with strawberries and fennel, or cured horse mackerel in cucumber aguachile. Bom Bom Bom has great wines and an amazing vibe too, obviously.  

📍 Address: R. Angelina Vidal 5, 1170-166 Lisboa (Graça)
🍴 What to order: Blackboard of changing specials – have trust and try it all
🗓 Reservations: Possible for dinner by phone

Read next… Restaurants open Sunday and Monday in Lisbon

Tozzi – €

Tozzi is not-your-average pizza bar. Here you might find a margarita and diavola, but the other pizzas are topped with wild combinations like pork sausage, scamorza cheese, fermented mustard and dill microgreens. That said, the most important thing is the crust and at Tozzi find long-fermented dough that’s thin and crispy with a puffy crust.

📍 Address: R. Latino Coelho 69A, 1050-132 Lisboa (Saldanha)
🍴 What to order: Pizza, your choice
🗓 Reservations: Recommended

Lupita is also truly, truly fantastic for pizza, but waiting 45-minutes for a pizza or table isn’t so fun. Jezzus Pizzaria is also great, and Rico Pizza does perfect NY style pizza.

BouBou’s – €€€€

For an off-beat fine dining experience, the more relaxed BouBou’s is a gem in Lisbon’s Príncipe Real neighborhood. Ask for a table in the courtyard and enjoy a tasting menu designed by chef Louise Bourrat, who was winner of the French TV show Top Chef in 2022. You’ll have the choice of two tasting menus, each with 10 moments that makes the most of seasonality, aims for zero waste, and glorifies vegetables (in interesting ways) where possible. 

📍 Address: R. Latino Coelho 69A, 1050-132 Lisboa (Saldanha)
🍴 What to order: tasting menu
🗓 Reservations: Recommended

Vibe – €€€€

Another one for fine dining lovers, VIBE in Chiado is a fun Michelin-recommended experience by Italian-born chef Mattia Stanchieri. The menu – and cuisine – changes every four or five months, presenting an entirely new experience. I sat down in the moody dining room during Chapter 3: Thailand, which mixed Thai inspiration with European techniques and Portuguese tastes. The bread with sardine naam phrik dip? Fantastic, as was the pad Thai made with squid noodles, and a deconstructed mango sticky rice.

You have a choice of 7-course, 9-course and 12-course menus. Each plate has a matching card, found in a little box on the table, that tells a story about the dish, inspiration, or origins. With the smaller tasting menu priced at €80, this is one of the best-value fine dining experiences in Lisbon (for now).

📍 Address: R. Horta Seca 5 B, 1200-221 Lisboa (Chiado)
🍴 What to order: 7-course, 9-course and 12-course tasting menus
🗓 Reservations: Recommended

Guelra – €€

I’ve long been a fan of O Frade, one of Lisbon’s first new wave of taverns to reinvent traditional Portuguese cuisine (while not straying too far from the path). From the same owner comes Guelra, a fish-focused diner that has creativity at the forefront. Set in Belém, it’s a refreshing addition to the restaurant scene near one of Portugal’s most important monuments – Jeronymo’s Monastery. I really love the interior, especially the bar, and it’s here I’d come to enjoy a wine paired with some of the curious seafood snacks, from Bacalhau³ (salted cod three ways) to a tuna katsu sandwich.

📍 Address: R. de Belém 35, 1300-085 Lisboa (Belém)
🍴 What to order: Seafood snacks! Reinterpretations of Portuguese seafood dishes
🗓 Reservations: Book ahead if you can, try a walk-in if not – lots of tables

Bar Alimentar – €€

This buzzy Lisbon restaurant is one of the most fun places to eat in Lisbon right now – as you’d expect from a spot that is a collab between a top chef and creative bartenders. The chef at Tricky’s, João Magalhães Correia, joined forces with Imprensa, one of the best cocktail and oyster bars in the city. Bar Alimentar has the fun vibe of a bar and creative, modern share plates that lean into Italian and Portuguese flavours. Really good.

📍 Address: Rua Nova da Piedade 62, 1200-299 Lisboa (Príncipe Real)
🍴What to order: Bacalhau (salted codfish) cannoli; octopus fregola.
🗓 Reservations:
Essential, book online.

Pausa by Ruvida – €/€€

For really fantastic pasta, Pausa is one of my favourites. This is the more casual focaccia wine bar connected to Ruvida, an off-beat Italian restaurant that is known for doing it all from scratch (and making pasta with the rolling pin). At Pausa you’ll find a menu of seriously good Italian charcuterie, focaccia pizzas, and simple and classic pastas. The pasta is served in a frying pan with a couple of wedges of focaccia so you can “scarpetta” any leftover sauce. Reasonably priced nice wines too!

📍 Address: R. de Cascais 15 (Alcântara) and R. de São João da Praça (Alfama)
🍴 What to order: pasta or charcuterie
🗓 Reservations: Easy for walk ins

Zula Bistro – €€

This little Middle Eastern-ish bistro is perfect for a cosy-yet-chic date night when you want something different. We had a fantastic beef tartare with potato latkes and a tahini aioli, lamb kebabs with harissa and potato gratin, and fillets of dourada (sea bass) with green orzo and dried lemon. There is a handful of outdoor tables in a very charming Lisbon square beside a historic fountain.

📍 Address: Rua da Esperança 6, 1200-267 Lisboa (Santos)
🍴 What to order: A bit of everything
🗓 Reservations: Recommended, especially for the terrace

Hachi Kare-Ya – €/€€

For Japanese curry in Lisbon there is no better spot than Hachi Kare-Ya. You’ll get an excellent curry with breaded chicken, pork or prawns, and even a tornado egg omelette over rice. Cheap, cheerful and really good. I just need to remember to ask them not to put sweet agridoce sauce on the meat.

📍 Address: R. Frei Francisco Foreiro 8, 1150-166 Lisboa (Anjos), now with a second location in Alameda
🍴 What to order: Japanese curry
🗓 Reservations: Recommended but not essential

Kefi Greek Bistro – €€

This modern Greek bistro comes to us from the people behind two of Lisbon’s great brunch spots (Seagull Method and Heim). What that means is excellent, well-plated food, affordable prices and a gorgeous space. Kefi is all about aesthetics with an interior entirely coated in sandstone tones and pops of that bright cobalt blue we all associate with Greece. The food is more Mediterranean with a Greek root, plated to please but not lacking in flavour. Best of all, it’s well-priced and ready to share.

📍 Address: Calçada da Estrela 187, 1200-665 Lisboa (Estrela)
🍴 What to order: Everything is excellent
🗓 Reservations: Recommended

AnNam – €

Vietnamese cuisine is a rare find in Lisbon and this newcomer is great for when cravings hit. Specialising in street food, AnNam is a super casual spot with bun cha, bo bun, pho and bahn mi, plus you can order off menu if there’s a Vietnamese dish you miss.

📍 Address: R. de Santa Marta 2 2A, 1150-295 Lisboa (Avenida Liberdade)
🍴 What to order: Bo bun or pho
🗓 Reservations: Go early at lunch, it’s small

Krua Thai – €

It’s Friday night and I don’t feel like cooking? Back in Australia I’d call my local Thai restaurant for an excellent pad thai and duck basil. That hasn’t been possible in Lisbon until now. Krua Thai is – by far – the best Thai food I’ve found in the city. This takeaway-only window offers all the Thai favourites (and then some) for under €10 a dish.

📍 Address: R. das Farinhas 8, 1100-179 Lisboa (Mouraria)
🍴 What to order: Pad see ew, green curry
🗓 Reservations: take away only

Taberna do Mar – €€/€€€

The grilled sardine nigiri hold a special place in my mind (and heart) and I think of them often. Chef Filipe Rodrigues, who runs this small restaurant, invented this bite – the perfect combination of Japan and Portugal – while working at Sea Me (one of Lisbon’s best seafood restaurants), and now serves it in the well-priced fishy tasting menu that includes (I believe) 10 bites for around €40. The hack my friends do is order a double serve of the sardine nigiri, because one is just never enough. 

📍 Address: Calçada da Graça 20 B, 1100-266 Lisboa (Graça)
🍴 What to order: Tasting menu with extra nigiri
🗓 Reservations: Essential

My “to-eat” list

I’m a last-minute planner by nature and my brain doesn’t really function when I’m hungry, which means my to-eat file keeps growing as I fall back on the same places. I’m publishing my current Lisbon restaurants “to-eat list” as much to remind myself to check these places out as to give you a few more potential options. I can promise that these spots are (probably) fantastic.

  • Solar dos Presuntos
  • Sala de João Sa
  • Plano
  • ISCO
  • ARCA
  • Old House
  • Feitoria
  • Tati
  • Essencial
  • Fogo

Frequently asked questions about eating out in Lisbon….

What are typical dishes and good places to eat in Lisbon, Portugal?

Step outside and you’ll find great places to eat all across the city. I suggest starting any visit to Lisbon with a local tasca – that’s a humble Portuguese bistro or tavern, and I’ve rounded up my favourite here. This is where you’ll find the locals with authentic traditional Portuguese food – if the menu is scrawled on a paper table in Portuguese only, you’ve found the opposite of a tourist trap.

What are the best street foods to try in Lisbon?

Bifanas, pasteis de bacalhau, ginjinha…. I’ve listed the best street food in Lisbon (and where to find it) here.

What are some good and cheap places to eat in Lisbon, Portugal?

Anywhere that’s a tasca is good and cheap, especially at lunch. Around the city there are some cheap-and-cheerful spots – scroll up and look for places with one euro sign €.

What are the best seafood restaurants in Lisbon?

Ramiro, listen above, would come out on top when it comes to seafood restaurants. In Portuguese you can search for “marisqueira” or “cervejaria” and you’ll find places that specialise in seafood, particularly prawns, shellfish, oysters etc sold by weight. You’ll find grilled fish on any traditional menu.


Loved this list of Lisbon’s best restaurants? Leave me a comment!

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Where to eat and drink in Madeira https://oladaniela.com/where-to-eat-drink-madeira/ https://oladaniela.com/where-to-eat-drink-madeira/#comments Tue, 22 Oct 2024 09:12:26 +0000 http://oladaniela.com/?p=8357 Bolo de caco. Milho frito. Peixe espada. Lapas. Maracujá. Madeira Island might be part of Portugal, but this sub-tropical drop in the Atlantic has its own strong identity – and most importantly, unique dishes and foods to try. We spent nine days exploring Madeira from east to west, seeking out the best restaurants, snack bars, […]

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Bolo de caco. Milho frito. Peixe espada. Lapas. Maracujá. Madeira Island might be part of Portugal, but this sub-tropical drop in the Atlantic has its own strong identity – and most importantly, unique dishes and foods to try.

We spent nine days exploring Madeira from east to west, seeking out the best restaurants, snack bars, poncha pubs and food experiences. Not everywhere we went impressed me, so this list on where to eat or drink in Madeira only includes the places I whole-heartedly recommend. Here are the tried and tested spots I suggest you seek out on Madeira Island.

Where to eat in east Madeira

Talho do Caniço, Caniço – €

If your idea of heaven is also an open air shed where locals gather to DIY grill espetadas (meat skewers) and drink jugs of red wine with laranjada (orange soft drink), then welcome to Talho do Caniço. It’s not the easiest dining experience. First, pop into the butcher shop up front. It’s a regular butcher, but you order meat for however many skewers you desire, then watch as they slice, dice and season the steak before your eyes. You can also get little sausages and chicken to grill.

Exit the butcher, round the block with your meat swords and head out back. Find yourself a table, hang your metre-long skewers on the poles and venture into the cute vintage bar to order vinho and bread. There’s no salad and no fuss here.

Now you can approach the huge wood-fire barbecue to grill-your-own skewers. Intimidating? Slightly, but there’s a friendly grill master on hand to offer tips and keep the coals hot. Then, simply do as the locals do. Stand around the tables (there are no chairs), pull hunks of beef off the skewers with your bread and debate which Portuguese football club is best. 

We loved Talho do Caniço so much we returned for 5pm skewers on our way to the airport. We’d already eaten at (probably) the most famous espetada restaurant on the island, but were really disappointed with our overcooked single €15 skewer. At Caniço, €15 gets you two espetadas, half a dozen small sausages, a jug of red wine, a basket of bread and one hell of a vibe. It’s only open a few days a week, but the grill seems to run all day.

📍 Address: R. Padre Agostinho de Freitas 3, 9125-019 Caniço
🍴 What to order: go big and pay for the most premium meat – you won’t regret it. The butcher will say how much you need per person.
🗓 Reservations: Not possible, go early

Read about our visit: It’s worth a flight to Madeira just to eat these espetadas

Cabo Aéreo Café Restaurant, São Jorge – €€

After hiking the PR9 Levada do Caldeirão Verde we were keen for lunch and I had Cabo Aéreo marked in my map after reading Austin Bush’s recount in Eater. I’m a sucker for a casual spot with an open grill, relaxed vibe, incredible views and roaming cats – and Cabo Aéreo has it all.

Mostly I wanted to compare the flavour of espetadas cooked on a real louro (laurel/bay leaf) branch vs the metal sticks. Result? Definitely seemed more fragrant, but the meat was more tender at Talho do Caniço. What rocked our world here was the tuna – we specifically asked for the ventresca or tuna belly – and the huge salad.     

📍 Address: Parque de Merendas – Farrobo, São Pedro, São Jorge
🍴 What to order: Tuna belly, espetadas
🗓 Reservations: Possible, call ahead +351 291 575 209

Cantinho da Serra, Santana – €€

The Madeira town with the cute and colourful triangular houses with straw roofs? That’s Santana. We came here to check out the traditional homes, snap a few photos and find lunch. Knowing Portuguese serving sizes and not wanting to overeat for 9 days straight, we opted for the most delicious tomato and onion soup, a traditional Madeiran dish, that comes with a poached egg floating in the middle. For main, we shared the octopus. At Cantinho da Serra it arrived in a clay pot still bubbling from time in the oven. Soft and tender yet crispy – one of the best octopus experiences I’ve had to date.

📍 Address: Estrada do Pico das Pedras 57, 9230-107 Santana
🍴 What to order: Traditional tomato soup, octopus
🗓 Reservations: Possible, can book online

Read next: Itinerary: Our magical 5-day Madeira Island road trip

Engenhos do Norte, Porto do Sol – €

We spent two nights in Porto do Sol, a small village with plenty of charm. Here one of the main businesses is the old rum factory, Engenhos do Norte. If you visit between March and May (like we did) you’ll see the factory in full force with steam wafting from the 30-metre high brick chimney as burley men process truck after truck of sugarcane. The smell of smoky oil and fresh cane sugar juice fills the air as the whirling sound of rapidly firing steam-powered pistons fills your ears. It’s the last one on the island to still use steam-powered equipment and it’s brilliant to watch each step from stem to juice. After checking out the factory, venture over to the bar to the taste the goods and sit down with a poncha.

📍 Address: Rua do Cais 6, Porto da Cruz, Madeira Island
🍴 What to order: Rum in any and every form
🗓 Reservations: Not needed

Read next… 8 best poncha bars on Madeira Island

O Moinho, Caniço – €€

A Portuguese food writer I highly respect suggested this spot, so we booked dinner and ventured off to O Moinho the ahead of time, so we settled for other mains. While those mains didn’t wow us, the sopa de trigo here was mind blowing. This heart-warming soup was like a hug for the soul. The milho frito at O Moinho was also brilliant and the first we’d had that was homemade – and you could tell.

📍 Address: Estrada dos Moinhos nº50, 9125-103 Caniço
🍴 What to order: milho frito, sopa do trigo
🗓 Reservations: Possible, by phone +351 964 050 467

Santo da Serra Farmers Market, Santo António da Serra – €

This Sunday farmers market is maybe the best things I’ve done on Madeira Island. Okay, the landscapes are incredible the the hikes have been breathtaking, but I love food and local experiences and this one ticks those to the extreme. The Sunday Mercado Agrícola do Santo da Serra is as real as they come. Here you’ll find a mix of locals selling produce grown on the island (nothing imported), street food stalls with local cider, wine and grills, and homemade goods like bolo de mel. It’s a place to start your morning with a poncha, shop for groceries or fruit, and then get your elbows on the bar of a local barraca, squeezing between locals to make your early lunch order. 

I loved it so much I wrote a whole blog about it: Sunday in Madeira at the Santo da Serra Farmers Market

📍 Address: ER207 376, 9100-255 Santo António da Serra
🍴 What to order: wander around and see what takes your eye

Where to eat in Funchal


Museu Cafe & Petisco, Funchal – €

This little cafe in the centre of Funchal is a gem. Right around the corner from where we stayed, Museu is a casual cafe and bar that puts a lot of love into its food. The chef is clearly inspired by Portuguese and Madeiran ingredients and international flavours. The best deal is to go for lunch where the menu do dia changes each weekday offering a vegetarian, meat or fish dish plus a drink and coffee for €9.50. When we were there the changing daily dish included things like roasted quail with a shallot compote and Port wine reduction, and tuna tataki with pickled vegetables, banana crisps and avocado creme. Really fun.

Tuesday night is jam night, so pass through from around 8pm or so for live music, a mixed local crowd and cool vibes.

Also great to note, there’ are only a couple of coworking spaces in Funchal so it’s great that Museu Cafe is laptop friendly too. The staff didn’t mind if I sat in the courtyard all afternoon catching up on emails and sunshine.

📍 Address: Praca do Município 85, São Martinho, 9000-043 Funchal
🍴 What to order: menu do dia
🗓 Reservations: Possible online

Read next: What to eat and drink in Madeira: the best local dishes to try

Taberna Ruel, Funchal – €€

Step foot inside the local fish market and you’ll see the long, black, ugly-ass fish hanging from the marble countertops. Peixe-espada-preto has a face only a mother could love. I thought I hated the black scabbard fish after having tried it a few times on mainland Portugal. I was wrong.

On Madeira, it’s common to see fillets of peixe-espada-preto, often served with Madeiran banana. At Taberna Ruel it arrived with a sweet potato puree and crisps too. Set right in the heart of Rua de Santa Maria, a very touristy street that’s filled with restaurants tables spilling out onto the footpath and gorgeous street art. Given the location I didn’t hold my breath for this spot, but the food was excellent. 

📍 Address: Rua de Santa Maria 119, 9060-291 Funchal
🍴 What to order: peixe-espada-preto
🗓 Reservations: Recommended, can book online

Barreirinha Bar, Funchal – €

This hip burger and cocktail bar has a huge seafront terrace that’s the perfect spot to catch the sunset over the ocean. Young Madeiran owners Claudia and Fabio do more than just run a bar. Musicians themselves, they’re also organising cool and creative events and mini festivals across the island, bringing a bit of what’s missing to remote Madeira. Go to Barreirinha on Fridays for jam sessions and Saturdays for concerts.

📍 Address: Largo do Socorro 1, 9060-305 Funchal
🍴 What to order: Any passionfruit cocktail
🗓 Reservations: Not needed, but go early

Fugacidade, Funchal – €

Love craft beer? You’ll love Fugacidade. I finally got to meet long-time Insta-friend Joana a.k.a Cityodes here, which felt fitting given that Lisboeta lived in Prague for a while. Here you’ll find a full range of taps loaded with Portuguese craft beers from various breweries, plus there are wines and poncha if beer isn’t your thing. We tried the picado (chopped steak with gravy and chips) here and it was brilliant – ask for piri piri oil too. There’s a short menu of interesting Madeiran snacks.

📍 Address: R. do Conde de Canavial 22, São Martinho, 9000-024 Funchal
🍴 What to order: Picado and craft beer
🗓 Reservations: Not needed

LocalShop, Monte – €

Tobogganing down a mountain in an oversized wicker basket? Sign me up. Taking a ride with the carreiros do monte was very high on my list of things I wanted to do. Of course, to get to where gravity, a basket and two burly men could steer us down a mountain slope we had to venture up into the hills. There’s a pricey cable car that gets you to the top of Monte, where the adventure begins. Don’t rush straight there – instead stop at LocalShop for a brilliant cup of locally roasted specialty coffee with spectacular views over a lush green valley. Coffee pro Gonçalo also owns nearby cafes Land (mentioned below) and Greenhouse.

📍 Address: Quiosque do Teleférico do Jardim Botânico / Babosas, Largo das Babosas, Monte, 9050-542 Funchal
🍴 What to order: Coffee and cake
🗓 Reservations: Not needed

Land Food & Coffee, Monte – €

This coffee shop and eatery has no right to be good, given its location wedged at the top of the Funchal cable car and next to Monte Palace Gardens – but it is good. Land serves specialty coffee, homemade cakes, and grills over charcoal. The views from the terrace don’t hurt either.

📍 Address: Largo das Babosas 8, Monte, 9050-541 Funchal
🍴 What to order: Coffee and lunch
🗓 Reservations: Not needed

Maia Coffee, Funchal – €

It may have only been May, but Funchal was hot, hot, hot while we were there so thankfully Maia Coffee was close by with delicious cold brew to keep us cool and caffeinated. The specialty coffee shop also services the average Portuguese drinker who likes a strong, dark espresso, so make sure you ask for the single origin roast for your cup.

📍 Address: Av. Zarco N°25, São Martinho, 9000-023 Funchal
🍴 What to order: Coffee, queijada cake
🗓 Reservations: Not needed

MORE MADEIRA – Itinerary: Our magical 5-day Madeira Island road trip

A Venda do Andre, Quinta Grande – €

After pulling up at one recommended poncha bar to see it overloaded with tourists in fluro activewear, we redirected to A Venda do Andre. This vintage poncha bar is all charm and I loved watching the staff make the drink before my eyes. Definitely the best, most balanced poncha we tried. I knocked back a second while munching on free peanuts and tremoços (lupin beans), while my driver settled for a Brisa. Three? That would be a deadly hangover. 

📍 Address: Estr. João Gonçalves Zarco, Quinta Grande
🍴 What to order: Poncha
🗓 Reservations: Not needed

Wish someone could shortcut your Portugal research? ➼ Talk to me – I offer 1:1 video calls to help people cut through the noise and plan a perfect Portugal itinerary. Find out more here.

Where to eat in West Madeira

Gavião do Ilhéu, Câmara de Lobos – €€

While based in Câmara de Lobos, a cute fishing village just west of Funchal, we were tired of espetadas and wandered into town. Here we gave Gavião do Ilhéu a go – there was a table for us on the terrace, where jackets weren’t needed in late October. While mostly a tourist crowd, the menu itself was great with unusual dishes like gaiado seco (dried skipperjack tuna). While I wasn’t game to bet on that for my main, I went for the espada preto (black scabbard with banana). We tried the tuna, seared rare, and a picado of espada too. 10/10 no notes!

📍 Address: R. São João de Deus 8a, 9300-039 Câmara de Lobos
🍴 What to order: Tuna, fresh fish
🗓 Reservations: Not needed, but suggested via phone

Clube Naval do Seixal, Seixal – €

There’s nothing better than a cheap, casual spot with spectacular oceanfront views. We pulled up a seat right on the water at the Naval Club in Seixal. It was edging towards 3pm and we just wanted something light. We received the best lapas (grilled sea barnacles) of the trip, which pair beautifully with the local lager, Coral, of course. We also shared a marinated octopus bolo de caco sandwich. Afterwards? The only thing left to do is luxuriate on Europe’s third best beach for 2022.

📍 Address: Cais do Seixal, 9270-130
🍴 What to order: lapas
🗓 Reservations: Not needed

A Poita, Madalena do Mar – €

Madalena do Mar is the cutest town. Driving down from the highway there are 40 banana trees to every house on a thin sliver of land squeezed between Madeira’s signature mountainous landscape and the wild Atlantic Ocean. One of these houses is home to A Poita, a fish restaurant fittingly owned by a fisherman. I’ve been twice and both times ordered the island specialty – fragateira – which is like caldeirada, a fish stew with tomatoes, peppers or capsicums, onion and spices. The main difference, I believe, is that fragateira contains lapas. It’s one of the cheapest, best fish restaurants on Madeira Island – and the grilled fish is also fantastic.

📍 Address: Estrada Lombos, 1, Madalena Do Mar, Funchal
🍴 What to order: Fragateira, fresh grilled fish
🗓 Reservations: via phone

XS Cafe, Prazeres – €

A hip specialty coffee shop in the middle of a tiny remote Portuguese village? That’s XS Cafe. It might feel out of place but the space is run by two architects whose small studio is in the space next door. Order a flat white and sit on the terrace with a homemade cake – the apple pie was to-die-for good.

📍 Address: R. da Igreja 2, 9370-626 Prazeres
🍴 What to order: Apple pie (if available) and coffee
🗓 Reservations: Not needed

Gato Legal Coffee Roastery, Ponta do Pargo – €

I never expect to find top-grade specialty coffee outside any major cities, so I didn’t expect to find a coffee roaster in Ponta do Pargo on the island’s west corner – but I guess it’s not so far from XS Cafe, another gem. Here you can get a fantastic flat white and pair it with one of the many homemade cakes and slice, or with a homemade savoury pie.

📍 Address: R. Dr. Vasco Augusto de França 58, 9385-249 Ponta do Pargo
🍴 What to order: House roasted coffee, sweets and a meat pie!
🗓 Reservations: Not needed

MORE MADEIRA – What to eat and drink in Madeira: the best local dishes to try

That’s my guide on where to eat on Madeira Island. Got a recommendation for me to try next time? Leave a comment….

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Where to eat in the Algarve https://oladaniela.com/where-to-eat-in-the-algarve/ https://oladaniela.com/where-to-eat-in-the-algarve/#comments Mon, 14 Oct 2024 18:08:24 +0000 http://oladaniela.com/?p=7647 Updated Mar 4, 2025 Fine dining fans could spend the week knocking back degustation menus at Michelin-starred restaurants and emptying jugs of white sangria at beach bars priced for the British crowd. Me? With my tasca budget and Michelin palate, I hunt for the best tabernas, cervejarias and marisqueiras that locals love as much as […]

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Updated Mar 4, 2025

Fine dining fans could spend the week knocking back degustation menus at Michelin-starred restaurants and emptying jugs of white sangria at beach bars priced for the British crowd.

Me? With my tasca budget and Michelin palate, I hunt for the best tabernas, cervejarias and marisqueiras that locals love as much as blow-ins like us. These are the best places to eat in the Algarve. The spots that know how to perfectly grill a salty sardine fresh from the sea, honestly plate local produce, and will drop fresh jugs of white table wine onto your paper tablecloth with no more than a nod.

I’m based in Lisbon so I’ve visited the Algarve many, many times and below you’ll find my grilled-fish-filled, house-wine-drenched, tried and tested suggestions on where to eat in the Algarve.

I’ve only included places I’ve personally been to and can attest as the very best spots to eat in the Algarve, so if you have any Algarve suggestions for me to try on my next visit – please drop a comment below or reach out. I’m always hungry.

Note: The Eastern Algarve section is in order of west to east, and the Western Algarve section goes east to west. This is divided approximately by where the highway from Lisbon arrives in the middle. Use the map at the bottom to find Algarve restaurants near you.

Winter in the Algarve: If you travel in the winter months you may find some most of this list closed for vacation. January and February are very quiet, so it pays to call ahead and confirm the restaurant is open before driving across the Algarve coast.

Read next: Where to stop between Lisbon and Lagos

Best places to eat in the Eastern Algarve

austa, Almancil

For local, honest eating and incredible interiors, there’s no better table than austa for a special breakfast, lunch or dinner. If you want to eat the Algarve – beyond its brilliant seafood – this dining room works with seasonal ingredients and hyper-local producers, sharing special stories with every dish. This project from Emma and David Campus opened in the summer of 2023 with a massive kitchen garden fueling the kitchen, helmed by chef David Barata. There’s attention to detail here, from the organic-shaped ceramics to the hand-made copper fittings and ancient salt-block seats.

💰 Price: €€€
🍴 Food: Seasonal dishes to share (or not)
📍 Address: Rua Cristóvão Pires Norte, Almancil
Website
🗓 Reservations
: Highly recommended, but they do accept some walk-ins usually
Nearby: The vegetable garden! Seriously, the garden is unreal. Take your drink for a wander through the veggie patch mid-meal.

Read next: What to eat in the Algarve

ATO, Faro

This Faro gem makes the Algarve capital a worthy stop. Behind the pans of this small dining room is chef and owner Sean Marsh, an American native who has worked his way around Europe’s most prestigious dining rooms, including Mugaritz in San Sebastian and St. John in London. He’s made his home in the Algarve and celebrates the unbeatable local produce with seasonal dishes in his small bistro.

💰 Price: €€
🍴 Food: Seasonal dishes with a Portuguese root
📍 Address: R. do Albergue 16, Faro
Website
🗓 Reservations
: Recommended
Nearby: Wander the old town, visit the Capela dos Ossos, take a ferry to Ilha Deserta or Ilha do Farol, go dolphin watching.

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A Venda, Faro

This sweet little rustic restaurant in Faro feels more like someone’s grandmother’s lounge room and dishes up small plates and small prices, making it easy to split and share half a dozen snacks over wine. Portugal doesn’t do tapas, these are petiscos. It’s cosy, comforting and everything is made from scratch.

💰 Price: €
🍴 Food: Portuguese petiscos (tapas)
📍 Address: Rua do Compromisso 60, Faro
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🗓 Reservations
: Recommended

Chá Chá Chá, Olhão

Summer here means a handwritten menu full of sardines, mussels, figs, tomatoes and anchovies, all collected from the local market by the Ria Formosa each morning. Fresher than fresh, this is the best place in the Algarve to taste the seasons. Former journalist Kevin Gould shipped himself to Olhão in 2018, renovating a heritage space and opening this relaxed diner. Simplicity is key here and good local ingredients are left to shine. 

💰 Price: €€
🍴 Food: Market produce and grilled fish – this Algarve kitchen is entirely gluten-free.
📍 Address: Travessa do Gaibéu 19, Olhão
Instagram
🗓 Reservations: Essential
Nearby: Wander the charming old neighbourhood, explore the local market and catch a ferry to a sand island.

Read next: Itinerary: My ideal 7-day Algarve road trip

Vai e Volta, Olhão

If you love freshly grilled local fish, this all-you-can-eat fish barbecue is the spot. Taste your way through half a dozen types with sides of sweet potato, tomato salad and açorda (like mashed potato, but with bread) for €16 (2024 price). The fish and the sides keep coming until you say stop.

💰 Price: €
🍴 Food: All-you-can-eat fish grill
📍 Address: Largo do Grémio Nº2, Olhão
Website
🗓 Reservations: Not needed

Casa Corvo, Fuseta

Casa Corvo, Fuseta, Algarve Portugal

I’ve never tasted prawns so sweet and magnificent as at Casa Corvo. They were so good we returned the next night to repeat the experience just to make sure we weren’t dreaming, and then again two days later. Set in the small unpretentious fishing village of Fuseta, what this fish grill lacks in ocean views, it more than makes up for with perfectly grilled seafood and the friendliest of staff. Former Masterchef Australia judge Matt Preston calls the restaurant next door, Cafe dos Mestres, his favourite place to dine in the world. We went there the night before discovering Casa Corvo, and thought he might have almost been onto something. Then we discovered Casa Corvo and boy, Matty, you were so close to finding actual heaven on earth. An essential stop. 

💰 Price: €
🍴 Food: Fish grill
📍 Address: Largo 1° de Maio, Fuseta
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🗓 Reservations: Walk-in only. Arrive early because the waiting list fills up quickly
Nearby: Visit the local market, laze about at Fuseta’s beach, or take a short ferry to the sand island bank.

Read next: The best cooking classes in the Algarve

NanoBrew, Fuseta

A tiny Norwegian craft brewpub in a Portuguese fishing village? You bet. NanoBrew was a surprise find in Fuseta. It’s open just three nights a week and yet the list has 16+ different beers all brewed on premises. Beer tasting plus Norwegian petiscos, sold. P.S. They offer take away beer.

💰 Price: €
🍴 Food: Scandi snacks to pair with beers
📍 Address: Rua Dr. Virgílio Inglês 114, Fuseta
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🗓 Reservations: Not needed

Os Fialhos, Pinheiro

Os Fialhos, Pinheiro, Portugal

Spend a day in the eastern Algarve and you’ll spot people bent over, hands digging at the sand looking for clams. Given the perfect location by the Ria Formosa, it’s surprising to see so few places serve fresh oysters, clams, mussels and pipis. But you can get your shellfish fix at this relaxed waterfront spot. 

💰 Price: €€
🍴 Food: Fish grill and seafood spot
📍 Address: Pinheiro, Luz
🗓 Reservations: Recommended

João Farol, Culatra Island

Culatra is one of the big islands in the Ria Formosa, with one side facing the open ocean and the other the calm wetlands. When in Olhão, you can catch a small ferry across to Culatra and spend the day lazing about in the sunshine and enjoy a long, slow lunch with white wine. I got word of this island restaurant from Kevin Gould, who runs Chá Chá Chá (mentioned above) in Olhão. He loves this fish grill on days off.

💰 Price: €
🍴 Food: Fish grill
📍 Address: Culatra Island
🗓 Reservations: Recommended – call them

À Mesa, Tavira

A Mesa, Portugal

Often winning acclaim as the most beautiful town in the Algarve, Tavira is worth staying the night or at least spending the day. Popular with French-speaking tourists, there are plenty of chic restaurants worth booking a table at around the historic centre. À Mesa is one of those, offering a menu of upmarket share plates where its terrace spills out beneath an old church on one of the main squares.

💰 Price: €€
🍴 Food: Modern Portuguese
📍 Address: Tavira
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🗓 Reservations: Recommended
Nearby: Walk the castle gardens, explore half a dozen churches, see Roman ruins, visit the local market, take a ferry to Ilha de Tavira.

Read next: The best tile painting workshops in the Algarve

Casa da Igreja, Cacela Velha

The door burst open at 4.30pm sharp and three young men waltzed out with more tables, ready for the non-stop onslaught of orders. Oysters, clams, fresh presunto, flaming chouriço, bottles of white wine and generous mounds of bread fly across the square. A white cat stalks between the tables, artfully avoiding children while lurking for scraps as the sun sets on another amazing day. 

We’d heard about this popular seafood shack that spills out over the church square. Eager not to miss a table, show up 10 minutes early like we did and wait with dozens of others in a religious-like silence for the show to begin. Definitely some of the best seafood I’ve eaten in the Algarve.

💰 Price: €€
🍴 Food: Wall-to-wall seafood
📍 Address: Rua de Cacela Velha 2, Cacela Velha
🗓 Reservations: Walk-in only
Nearby: Time it for low tide and walk across the sand flats to the oceanfront, or take a small ferry boat.

Read next: 14 best things to do and see in the Algarve

Tasquinha da Muralha, Vila Real de Santo Antonio

Raw, rough and rustic, this fish shack came as a welcome suggestion from Chá Chá Chá’s Kevin Gould. After waiting some time for a table, I got in trouble for peeping at the fish counter. You see, once you get your table you have to wait your turn to order. Choose your fish from the counter, once it’s weighed it’ll be grilled and at your table in no time.

💰 Price: €€
🍴 Food: Fish grill
📍 Address: Dodgy spot down by the riverfront
🗓 Reservations: Walk-in only
Nearby: The beach by VRSA is super lovely, or better yet cross the bridge into Spain and visit Ayamonte.

Best places to eat in the Western Algarve

O Teodósio, Guia

How can one visit the Algarve without stopping by Guia, the homeland of piri piri chicken? While it’s said that its neighbour Ramires was the inventor of the charcoal-grilled spicy chicken movement, Teodósio was one of the early pioneers helping to cement the small town of Guia on the map. The chicken? Fantastic. The queue? Long. We drove down after work one day, thinking arriving around 10pm would be okay to slip in for a table. No such luck – we waited for an hour. Thankfully, there is an outdoor bar serving beer and a loudspeaker letting you know when your table is up. Once inside, the ordering and delivery of food is almost instant – so long as you want the famous frango á Guia! Order it with fries and tomato salad, and ask for extra piri piri oil.

💰 Price: €
🍴 Food: Grilled piri piri chicken 
📍 Address: Rua do Emigrante 50, Guia
Website
🗓 Reservations: Walk-in only

A Tavola, Guia

I couldn’t help but pop by this tiny Italian café-bar after seeing pictures of the extremely cute design. From the tiny space, A Tavola serves a simple menu of Italian sandwiches, focaccia, tiramisu, cheeseboards, and drinks. They do tasty picnic boxes that you can take to the beach too!

💰 Price: €
🍴 Food: Focaccia, Aperol spritz, Italian flavours and snacks
📍 Address: Estrada municipal loja 3c, Guia
Instagram
🗓 Reservations: Walk-in only

Bar Bacchus, Porches

Connected to one of Portugal’s great pottery houses is this little café with a gorgeous garden. It’s a simple spot that serves up light lunches, like quiche and salad, and homemade cakes along with coffee and freshly squeezed Algarvian orange juice. Sit inside with jawdropping tile murals, or sit in the garden with even more Porches murals and stunnning tiled tabletops. It’s the perfect spot for an afternoon cuppa.

💰 Price: €
🍴 Food: Cake, coffee, light lunches
📍 Address: Porches Pottery, EN125, Porches
Website
🗓 Reservations: via website

Morgado do Quintão, Lagoa

Wine at Morgado do Quintão, Lagoa, Portugal

Clink glasses at a long white-clothed table beneath a 2000-year-old olive tree and taste the terroir behind you. The Algarve isn’t known for its wine, but Morgada do Quintão is trying to change that. Founded by the Count of Silves in the early 1800s, the estate is still owned by the same family and while a long legacy ties some down that’s not the case here. Disrupting the status quo, for the past four years they’ve been making wines that speak to the land.You can taste them over lunch or a board of local cheese and charcuterie.

💰 Price: €€-€€€
🍴 Food: Mediterranean 
📍 Address: Morgado do Quintão, Lagoa
Website
🗓 Reservations: Essential
Nearby: Nada. You don’t need anything else when you’re on this estate, but Silves isn’t far.

A Ria, Ferragudo

Food at A Ria, Ferragudo, Portugal

In photographs the tiny fishing village of Ferragudo looks like a dream, and in reality the photos don’t lie. Tiny boats bob in the harbour, a castle overlooks the beach to one side and small white-washed houses with colourful doors snake up cobbled streets covered in blooming purple bougainvillea. Along the Arade River, every restaurant seems to have a huge outdoor grill on the street where the catch-of-the-day is salted and left over charcoal. A Ria is one of those spots.

💰 Price: €€
🍴 Food: Grilled fish and meat 
📍 Address: Rua Infante Santo, Ferragudo
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🗓 Reservations: Recommended
Nearby: Wander the village and check out Castelo de São João do Arade and the beaches that fall either side.

O Leme, Ferragudo

We peeped beneath the surface of sunny, smiley Algarve coast when we entered O Leme, a local tasca recommended by a Lisbon chef. Set within the Ferragudo train station, this is a place full of character and characters that serves traditional Algarvian dishes. The football was on and we sat down inside for dinner. To one side an older local was soaking up the game, popping out for smoke breaks and coming back with one less button done up each time. To the other was the owner, dressed in a Hawaiian shirt, and his wife, who was doing the accounts at a long table. He leaned over to remove the bones of our starter – carapaus alimados (horse mackerel) – despite me insisting I knew how. We snacked on a little dish of sliced Algarve carrots that they serve like olives while waiting for our octopus with sweet potato, and lulas à algarvia (squids Algarve style) with potato chips. To end, a fatia (slice) of tarte de batata doce (sweet potato tart).

💰 Price: €
🍴 Food: Algarvian dishes, grilled fish and meat 
📍 Address: Rua Primeiro de Dezembro 13, Ferragudo
🗓 Reservations: Possibly not needed, by phone only
Nearby: It’s inside the train station! Not much else near here though…

Related Blog: What to eat in the Algarve

Taberna da Maré, Portimão

Seafood dish at Taberna da Maré, Portimão, Portugal

You should eat seafood out of a giant copper clam in the Algarve. Called a cataplana, this cooking pot and method is unique to Portugal’s southern coast. With a hinge at one end and clasp at the other, the copper clam-like pan is closed up with fish, seafood, potatoes, vegetables and liquid to make it all steam while cooking. We figured this well-known seafood restaurant would best one of the best places to try cataplana, and it was.

💰 Price: €€
🍴 Food: Seafood 
📍 Address: Largo da Barca 9, Portimão
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🗓 Reservations: Recommended
Nearby: Portimão’s main beach, Praia da Rocha, is overrun in the summer. Around the corner Praia dos Três Castelos is more peaceful.

Clarice’s, Alvor

This was perhaps the greatest surprise of my last trip to the Algarve. This little cafe serves a seriously good breakfast, and for a good price. My partner and I split a plate of scrambled eggs with hash browns and a tomato and spinach sauté. I’m so fussy about perfect eggs that I rarely let friends cook them for me, and these were perfect. We also split the Japanese-style soufflé pancakes, served with maple syrup and bacon – they were ace. Coffee is good without being incredible.

💰 Price: €
🍴 Food: Brunch 
📍 Address: Rua 1º de Dezembro 24, Alvor
Website
🗓 Reservations: Recommended
Nearby: Portimão’s main beach, Praia da Rocha, is overrun in the summer. Around the corner Praia dos Três Castelos is more peaceful.

Café da Rosa, Silves

Café da Rosa, Silves, Portugal

Those with a sweet tooth should drop into the Algarve’s prettiest cafe. With plenty of blue-and-white azulejos, this little cafe in the historic centre of Silves dishes up a great Dom Rodrigo (typical Algarvian dessert) and on a regular day the terrace spills out onto a square. On the day we went, it spilled out into the middle of a medieval fair. We bought grilled meats from a man wearing hessian and drank wine from specially made terracotta tumblers – no details spared for Silves’ Medieval Fair.

💰 Price: €
🍴 Food: Sweets 
📍 Address: Largo do Município 7, Silves
Instagram
🗓 Reservations: Not needed
Nearby: Wander the historic centre and ancient castle of Silves.

Marisqueira Rui, Silves

While you might think the best seafood is found on the coast, venture inland to the ancient Moorish capital of the Algarve and dine at the famous Marisqueira Rui. A marisqueira is a type of Portuguese restaurant that specialises in seafood – think boiled of grilled prawns, lobster, crab, clams, cockles, pipis, and more. It’s often priced up by the kilo or per 100g, or in a mixed platter. Marisqueira Rui has been serving some of the finest fresh seafood to the Algarve since 1997. This Algarve institution also plates up seafood rice, seafood pasta and more.

💰 Price: €€
🍴 Food: Seafood 
📍 Address: Rua Comendador Vilarinho 27, Silves
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🗓 Reservations: Recommended
Nearby: Silves is topped by a 12th-century castle made with a unique red-coloured stone. Make time to explore the history streets of this old small city.

Black & White, Lagos

Outside the big cities finding specialty coffee is a challenge, but of course, Lagos is where the Australian crowd flock to in the Algarve and it’s here you’ll find a handful of new-wave cafes. Black & White is one of them. Great coffee, excellent breakfast burrito and top avocado toast, Aussie style. This spot has evolved from a smaller cafe to a huge, light-filled brunch address – next door there’s a second Black & White dedicated to takeaway coffees and top-tier pastries.

💰 Price: €
🍴 Food: Brunch 
📍 Address: Rua Marreiros Netto 40, Lagos
Instagram
🗓 Reservations: Not needed
Nearby: Lagos historic centre, explore the local market, then head out to famous beaches like Praia dos Estudantes, Praia do Camilo and Ponta da Piedade.

Read next… Best beaches in Lagos, Portugal

Everyday People, Lagos

And there I was drinking a ‘magic’, eating a bahn mi, and hearing Tame Impala play over the speakers. I giggled and thought, am I in Melbourne? On my late 2024 trip to the Algarve my greatest discovery was this friendly neighbourhood café on the east side of the river in Lagos. In this quieter, residential area this spacious café serves a menu of delicious sandwiches and plates, top specialty coffee, and home baked treats. It’s dog friendly. There’s two huge terraces. There’s a massive room dedicated to co-working. And there’s a little grocery store with hard-to-find Asian ingredients, natural wines and single-origin coffee. Big fan.

💰 Price: €
🍴 Food: Brunch 
📍 Address: Rua Conde Lippe, Lagos
Website
🗓 Reservations: Not needed
Nearby: It’s a short walk from the Lagos Marina, where many boat tours leave from. We did this really cool kayaking experience around Ponta da Piedade, and popped here for coffee both before and after…

Travia, Lagos

Travia is a fun little corner in the old town of Lagos that serves a menu of Portuguese share plates and natural wines. I liked their twist on Portuguese prawns, frying them with coconut milk and lemongrass instead of the usual garlic piri, and Travia’s take on pica pau, a classic Portuguese dish of chopped steak in gravy with pickles. Great list of bottles by the glass and very nice staff.

💰 Price: €
🍴 Food: petiscos 
📍 Address: R. Marreiros Netto 37, Lagos
Instagram
🗓 Reservations: Suggested – can book online.

Coffee & Waves, Lagos

Interior of Coffee & Waves, Lagos, Portugal

Another Lagos coffee shop I’m a fan of is Coffee & Waves. This one makes cold brew too, perfect for taking to the beach and for adventures further afield. Apparently now they’re popping bottle of natural wine too.

💰 Price: €
🍴 Food: Brunch 
📍 Address: Travessa do Cotovelo 10, Lagos
Instagram
🗓 Reservations: Not needed

Maria Petisca, Lagos

As the name alludes to, this spot is all about petiscos so arrive ready to share. This unsuspecting little restaurant just outside the old town walls is a worthy stop. The place itself is chic, but the prices and people are local. At lunch, €10 gets you the prato do dia, soup, a drink and coffee.

💰 Price: €
🍴 Food: petiscos 
📍 Address: Rua José Afonso 12B, Lagos
Facebook
🗓 Reservations: Not needed

Sul, Burgau

There are plenty of young chefs in Lisbon giving a modern spin to traditional Portuguese plates, but there are few spots in the Algarve doing the same. It’s one (of many) reasons why Sul is a delight to eat at. Here the menu seems to play with Algarvian ingredients, presenting them with flair and technique in a relaxed café setting. Sul’s light-filled space and terrace is part specialty coffee shop, part natural wine bar, restaurant – and it’s one to repeat.

💰 Price: €€
🍴 Food: Modern Algarvian cafe  
📍 Address: Travessa Felizardo Mateus, Burgau
Instagram
🗓 Reservations: Recommended for dinner, day time is walk-ins only
Nearby: Burgau is a super cute town west of Lagos that is worth stopping into. Take a swim in the beach and relax

Retiro do Pescador, Sagres

Food at Retiro do Pescador, Sagres, Portugal

Sagres is a town that feels like it’s at (or perhaps even slightly beyond) the end of the earth. Often windy and cold, even in summer, the most south-western village in Portugal dramatically juts out into the Atlantic Ocean atop sheer rock cliffs. We stayed on this suburban street in Sagres at a surf hostel that happened to be next to the town’s only nightclub. We never went clubbing, but we did see crowds milling around this restaurant every lunch. A takeaway frango no churrasco (grilled chicken) purchased for a cliff-top picnic was so good we returned the next day for an equally delicious lunch.

💰 Price: €€
🍴 Food: Portuguese 
📍 Address: Rua dos Murtórios 4, Sagres
Website
🗓 Reservations
: Recommended
Nearby: Stand at Cabo São Vicente, explore the Fortaleza de Sagres, learn to surf, shop ceramics at Paraiso.

A Charette, Monchique

If you tire of coastal life or want a taste of something different – venture into the Serra de Monchique. Here you’ll find an Algarve mountain town, Monchique, which sits some 450 metres above sea level in a valley between the region’s two highest peaks. We pulled in for lunch at A Charette, a regional classic that serves hearty Algarve mountain dishes from its humble and homely kitchen. Think wild boar, roasted lamb, and a filling Monchique-style cozido (boiled dinner).

💰 Price: €€
🍴 Food: Portuguese 
📍 Address: Rua Dr. Samora Gil 30/34, Monchique
Website
🗓 Reservations
: Recommended
Nearby: Stand on the hilltop of Fóia for panoramic views across the region. Up here you’ll find the thermal spa of Caldas de Monchique too.

Related Blog: 14 best things to do and see in the Algarve

Which town in the Algarve has the best food?

Personally, I think it’s Olhão or Tavira. I find the eastern Algarve has strong local market halls that are directly connected to local farmers, fishermen and the agriculture of the area. These towns are more local too, so the restaurants want repeat customers from the locals.

What food is the Algarve known for?

Oranges, figs, oysters, almonds, salt, fresh fish…. Dishes like cataplana, octopus with sweet potato… I’ve written a guide to what to eat while in the Algarve here.

Algarve restaurants Map

That’s my list of the best places to eat in the Algarve. Have I missed anywhere good or added new spots to your own list? Leave me a comment <3

Read next… 

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My favourite tascas in Lisbon: Where to eat traditional Portuguese food https://oladaniela.com/tascas-lisbon/ https://oladaniela.com/tascas-lisbon/#comments Mon, 16 Sep 2024 07:27:00 +0000 https://oladaniela.com/?p=12952 Every Lisboeta grew up eating at tascas, and so every local has a favourite hidden gem or secret spot in their Lisbon neighbourhood. A tasca is essentially a Portuguese bistro. They are cheap, family run and you can enjoy a traditional Portuguese meal with wine, snacks and dessert for €10 to €20 most of the […]

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Every Lisboeta grew up eating at tascas, and so every local has a favourite hidden gem or secret spot in their Lisbon neighbourhood. A tasca is essentially a Portuguese bistro. They are cheap, family run and you can enjoy a traditional Portuguese meal with wine, snacks and dessert for €10 to €20 most of the time.

Tascas are the beating heart of Portuguese cuisine, and something that seems to unite people of all social classes. I find there is so much variety in Portuguese gastronomy, and tascas are the humble tables where you get to eat like the locals, with the locals.

Portuguese people are extraordinarily proud of their culinary heritage. It makes writing a definitive list of the best tascas in Lisbon a seemingly impossible task. So that’s not what this is. This is a list of my favourite tascas in Lisbon that I’ve enjoyed visiting over the past six years or so. 

When I first moved to Lisbon I picked up a fantastic book by local food writer Tiago Pais who has written a definite list of the 50 Best Tascas in Lisbon. While it’s a few years old now, and some tables have shut their doors, I call it my Lisbon bible and I can still highly recommend getting a copy. 

Tips and rules for enjoying a Portuguese tasca

Don’t be the tourist that leaves Google reviews complaining about sassy service and being charged for snacks at tascas without understanding the culture of these cheap, homely Portuguese diners. When you sit down, the waiter will throw a bunch of snacks down – olives, bread, maybe some croquettes or samosas, or even an octopus salad. The snacks are not free, but are usually a few euros at most. If you want to eat them, eat them. If you don’t – push them to the side and ask they be taken away. Most of these snacks are 50c to €3, but you can check the menu before diving in. 

Read next… 14 mistakes people making when visiting Portugal

I see tourists complain that service is curt, but that’s part of the charm and tradition. If you speak Portuguese you’ll hear a charming mix of dad jokes, grammar pedantry and friendly (ish) banter with the regulars. These are often family affairs — many times just the husband waiting tables as the wife cooks — so don’t come expecting hospitality-school-trained staff or silver service. Do expect to throw your arm in the air, holding up fingers to indicate how many more imperiais (small beers) you want.

Many tascas are only open for lunch during the week, so check the opening hours before assuming it will be open Friday night. It’s best to carry cash, as many don’t accept credit card (or only accept local Portuguese cards). Tipping is not entrenched in Portuguese culture, but it’s polite to leave a few coin or up to 10% of the bill.

Some of the bom e barato (good and cheap) tascas on my list have likely evolved into what many would call restaurants. So before the Portuguese crowd come after me – this is a list of my favourites, so it includes true tascas along with a few traditional snack bars and restaurants who might charge €14 instead of €8 for a plate. It is 2025 after all, and I think that’s okay.

Finally, I’ve also included a list of some next-generation, modern tascas towards the bottom. These are cool spots run by young chefs who are putting a modern spin on traditional dishes while keeping the prices very attractive. You can eat well without going broke.

Get a local to show you around Lisbon’s tascas on a serious food tour 🍴 I highly recommend Culinary Backstreets, who run four unique Lisbon food tours that dive deep into the city’s seafood traditions, colonial influences, and lesser-known neighbourhoods. They go deeper and longer than the average food tour, so I always look to see if they operate in cities I’m travelling to and I have a little discount for you.

➡ Get 5% off with the code DANIELA5 when you book! ✨

How to identify a good tasca

  • Paper tablecloths. These are essential. 
  • Bonus points for a paper tablecloth taped to the outside of the restaurant scrawled with the pratos do dia (plates of the day) – always only in Portuguese, so have Google images handy.
  • TV in one corner with news or sport. It’s not unusual to see people dining solo.
  • The couvert: The waiter will drop olives, bread and little packets of butter and sardine paté on the table when you arrive. I repeat, these are not free.
  • House wine comes from a box, but it’s better than you’d expect.
  • Specials on certain days of the week. For example, some do Cozido à portuguesa every Wednesday.
  • Desserts on display. You should be able to wander over and see the house-made desserts on show like jewels. Bonus points for a retro mirrored cabinet.
  • Interiors that haven’t been updated in at least 40 years. Think steel countertops and retro tiles.
  • Interiors that reflect the terra (land) or local sports clubs. Think old agricultural equipment or scarves and jerseys from Benfica or Sporting

How to eat and drink in a tasca

The lunch rush happens from about 1pm, so aim to be there by 12.45pm to beat the crowds. Sit down and snack on the couvert, which will likely be some olives, bread, butter and maybe cheese while you read the menu and decide.

At lunch I’ll usually try to order a prato do dia as these specials often offer better value and are more interesting than the standard menu, which might just have grilled meat or fish. During the week you can often access the menu do dia as well, which is a set menu that usually includes the bread, main plate, coffee and a drink, and sometimes also a soup or dessert – it varies from spot to spot and will cost between €10-15. These local canteens or bistros often have a house specialty, plus there will be daily specials that might repeat every week, for example cozido à portuguesa (meat stew) on Wednesdays.

At tascas you can also eat petiscos (starters or Portuguese tapas). These are things like grilled prawns (gamba á guilho) or octopus salad (salada do polvo). But at lunch you can skip straight to the main, maybe enjoying the sopa do dia (soup of the day) to start.

At the end of the meal, you can view the dessert menu, or wander over to the dessert cabinet to eye up your sweets. Pair it with an espresso. Ask for café com cheirinho if you want the espresso with a shot of liqueur, usually a grape-based moonshine known as bagaço. You could also ask for port wine, whisky, moscatel or bagaço on its own.

My favourite tascas in Lisbon (and what to order)

This is a big list, so I’ve tried to group them by area of Lisbon. I’ve also made a Google Map to make it easy to see where they are. It’s also my personal list, and I live over towards the west so it leans heavy in that direction. 

I have a long list of Lisbon tascas that I’m yet to try, and I’ll keep adding to this list. If you have a favourite Lisbon tasca from your travels or childhood, leave me a comment.

On that note, downtown Lisbon is changing fast and these places open 30, 40, 50 years are being priced out to make way for hotels and ramen bars. I’ll do my best to keep this up-to-date – and you do your best to support local places that are part of the cultural fabric of the city. Vamos!

Central & East Lisbon tascas: Baixa, Chiado, Mouraria, Cais do Sodré, Alfama

Zé dos Cornos

Ribs, ribs, ribs! They do them savoury style in Portugal, garlicky and salty instead of drowned in barbecue sauce. Share a rack straight off the charcoal grill for around €10 with a tomato salad and bean rice. There’s always a line at Zé dos Cornos but (as with most places) they’ll happily serve you beers while you wait on the street.

Where: Mouraria
Address: Beco Surradores 5, 1100-591 Lisboa
What to order: Piano (ribs)

Read next…Where to find the best Portuguese street food and snacks in Lisbon

Das Flores

This inner-city tasca is absolutely fantastic, but don’t go thinking you can just walk in. it’s definitely one of my favourite spots in the city but I’ve always found it’s best to book ahead. It’s only open for lunch, the prices are good, and the dishes are varied. 

Where: Chiado
Address: Rua das Flores 76 78, 1200-195 Lisboa
What to order: Bacalhau (salted cod) dishes, polvo á lagareiro (octopus), croquettes

Zé da Mouraria

I’ve had multiple top chefs tell me that Zé da Mouraria is the best tasca in the city, and who am I to argue? At first glance the prices might seem steep, but order a meal and an entire frying pan or tray of food will land on your table – enough to feed three.

Where: Mouraria, but there’s now a few location in the city
Address: R. João do Outeiro 24, 1100-292 Lisboa
What to order: bacalhau com grão (salted cod with chickpeas)

Casa do Alentejo

I’ve always loved visiting the tavern at Casa do Alentejo, a cultural centre set within a 17th-century palace in the heart of Lisbon. It feels like a hidden gem to walk in there and find a small courtyard with a huge olive tree, and it’s open all afternoon making it a good spot for afternoon cravings. This is less of a tasca and more of a snack bar or petisco (tapas) spot. You’ll get to try Alentejo dishes here, like migas, a sort of bread stuffing.

Where: Baixa
Address: R. das Portas de Santo Antão 58, 1150-268 Lisboa
What to order: chouriço (chorizo cooked at the table), migas com porco (bread stuffing with pork)

Read next… Best places to eat octopus in Lisbon

Sardinha

This is an Alfama classic with an elderly husband-and-wife team behind the counters. It’s said to do a great bitoque, but it’s not often you see quail on the menu  – especially not somewhere relaxed like this. I received two grilled quails with potato chips and change from €10. The bitoque is also very good though!

Where: Alfama
Address: R. Jardim do Tabaco 18 20, 1100-081 Lisboa
What to order: bitoque (thin steak with egg)

Maça Verde

If you’re catching an afternoon train to Porto, make Maça Verde your lunch stop. This snack bar apparently evolved into a proper restaurant in the late 90s and now it’s a favourite address for traditional Portuguese food.

Where: Santa Apolonia
Address: R. Caminhos de Ferro 1100, 1100-486 Lisboa
What to order: daily specials

Wish someone could shortcut your Portugal research? ➼ Talk to me – I offer 1:1 video calls to help people cut through the noise and plan a perfect Portugal itinerary. Find out more here.

Cantina das Freiras

Feel like a smug local when you climb the stairs of an unsuspecting inner-city building to find this lunchtime canteen. This isn’t quite a tasca, but it’s cheap and too good to skip. Grab a tray and slide along to choose from the traditional Portuguese fish, meat or vegetarian dish of the day and take your meal to the rooftop terrace to dine with views over the river.

Where: Chiado
Address: Tv. Ferragial 1, 1200-184
What to order: Each day the daily meals change, expect to pay around €6. Amazingly they update the daily menu on their website each week.

Tendinha Do Rossio

Open since 1840, Tendinha is a slice of history on the doorstep of Lisbon’s Rossio Square. But from the outside it’s not so obvious – the large terrace tables are covered in marketing with pictures of the snacks and prices of everything you might like to eat. I say close your eyes on the way in and soak up the vintage interiors of the small space. Here you’ll eat the best pastel de bacalhau, a codfish potato croquette, in the city.

Where: Baixa 
Address: Praça Dom Pedro IV 6, 1100-200 Lisboa
What to order: pastel de bacalhau

Read next… Where to eat in Baixa, Lisbon

Esquina da Fé

One of my favourite things about my next three suggestions is the location. Just a block back from Lisbon’s fanciest streets, where you’ll find boutiques for Prada, Gucci, and other luxury goods, you’ll find a normal Lisbon neighbourhood with fantastic tascas and cheap-and-cheerful dining options. I’m seeing it change rapidly, with construction and hotels going up, but if you can pop by “Faith Corner” then I highly suggest you do. Inside it’s very old school, with a changing traditional menu based mostly on northern cuisine from the Minho and Trás-os-Montes regions. Everything is made in house, including the desserts, and the prices are still favourable.

Where: Avenida da Liberdade
Adress: Rua da Fé 60, 1150-151 Lisboa
What to order: the dish of the day

Read next… 6 best food markets in Portugal

O Cartaxinho

No one could argue that this is not a true tasca – a place run by a husband-and-wife team who serve regional Minho dishes, only making some specials on certain days of the week. For the past 30 or so years Maria Júlia Cabral and her husband have been serving locals cozido (Portuguese boiled stew), cabidela (chicken blood rice), and more.

Where: Avenida da Liberdade
Address: R. de Santa Marta 20B, 1150-295 Lisboa
What to order: the daily special or bacalhau á bras 

Forninho Saloio

I recall reading a newspaper that said a tasca only open 40s years a young spot, and so Forninho Saloio is a spring chicken open only since 1995. While the prices are a little higher that what most locals would call a tasca, this is very much a traditional dining room serving top traditional Portuguese cuisine. The grill is fantastic, the daily specials are great, and the desserts are homemade. I loved the pernil do porco (pork knuckle) I had last time with very slow roasted potatoes.

Where: Avenida da Liberdade
Address: Travessa Parreiras 39, 1150-250 Lisboa
What to order: pratos do dia offer slightly better value than the menu.

Príncipe do Calhariz

Not many taverns are open on Sundays, let alone Sunday nights, which is why Príncipe do Calhariz is a bit special. The other reason it makes this list is the size. While it’s a popular spot, this big tunnel space has stacks of tables, making it easy enough to squeeze in or wait for a table. The food is usually good, the staff are super lovely, and the vibes and location are great.

Where: Chiado
Address: Calçada do Combro 28, 1200-012 Lisboa
What to order: steak or anything off the grill 

West Lisbon tascas: Santos, Alcântara, Campo de Ourique, Ajuda, Belém

O Tachadas

At the front of this tiny tasca, the grill chef’s eyes barely stray from whatever telenovela or old movie is on the TV as he flips steaks, squid and pork chops over the coals. Besides a curt greeting, the most you’ll hear from him is the loud thump as he cleaves huge chunks of steak on demand.  This small old-school tasca is the spot I return to again and again and again for the giant T-bone steak that comes the size of your (rather large) plate.

Where: Santos
Address: Rua da Esperança 178, 1200-808 Lisboa
What to order: Costeleta de novilho (steak), bacalhau à brás (salted cod)

Imperial de Campo de Ourique

Senhor João is one of Lisbon’s greatest characters. He has such an enthusiasm for the restaurant and the food from the Minho region that his wife, dona Adelaide, cooks up. You can’t help but be swept up in his genuine joy. As for the food, you’ll probably smell it wafting out the door before you even see the place, and the flavours live up to the hype generated by your nose. 

Where: Campo de Ourique
Address: R. Correia Teles 67, 1350-095 Lisboa
What to order: chanfana (goat stew), bacalhau à minhota

Jorge d’Amália

If you’ve had enough of tascas filled with red Benfica and green Sporting memorabilia, Jorge d’Amália will be a refreshing change. Here you’ll find a quite simply overwhelming number of jerseys, scarves, flags and other paraphernalia associated with the local side, Os Belenenses. More importantly, you’ll find a pica pau full of juicy tender steak and a generous dose of vinagery pickled veg, and one of the city’s best bitoques (steak with egg and gravy).

Where: Ajuda
Address: Calçada da Memória 20, 1300-396 Lisboa
What to order: bitoque (steak with egg), pica pau (chopped steak with pickles)

O Lutador

I come to O Lutador loads because it’s my local, but I’d suggest anyone looking for great petiscos (tapas) to drop by. There’s a massive terrace to enjoy a bifana and imperial (that’s a pork sandwich and baby beer) in the fading sun, or plates of tiny snails, pica-pau and beer in summer.

Where: Alcântara
Address: R. da Junqueira 1C, 1300-383 Lisboa
What to order: Pica pau (chopped steak with pickles) with hot chips, octopus salad, bifana (pork steak sandwich) 

Linha 27

The best tascas are like stepping into a timewarp – and are often only open for lunch. This local hidey hole in Alcântara is my time machine, packed with local workers every weekday. You can’t go wrong with a bitoque at almost any tasca, but this one is particularly good. Or why not opt for the “usual” order of the regular sat next to us – she asked for horse mackerel with Spanish sauce and a half-litre of house white wine. Linha 27 has been open since 1981 and updates the menu on its Facebook page.

Where: Alcântara
Address: Tv. do Conde da Ponte 3, 1300-141 Lisboa
What to order: pork cheeks with slow-roasted potatoes

Read next… How to spend 48 hours in Lisbon

50 Maravilhas

A homely spot that verges into restaurant territory, o Maravilhas – or 50 Maravilhas – is a local favourite where you can enjoy high-quality meals or share a “dose” for two for around €15. 

Where: Alcântara
Address: R. Gilberto Rola 20, 1350-155 Lisboa
What to order: arroz do polvo (octopus rice), carne de porco á Alentejana (pork with clams)

O Cantinho do Alfredo

The chalkboard out front scrawled with the day’s specials is almost illegible, a great sign. This tiny vintage dining room – with worn concrete tile floors and wooden tables – is a timewarp. Every lunch it is packed with workers enjoying meals for €5-6 and lunch with drinks and dessert giving change for €10. Anelderly man named Albino (not Alfredo) is in charge, and while the food is mostly simple – everything is still made in house, including the desserts.

Where: Campolide
Address: Rua General Taborda 44, Campolide, Lisboa, Portugal 1070-140
What to order: anything from the blackboard of specials, with prices around €6 for mains. Go on Thursdays for cozido (boiled meat stew) 

Tasca do Gordo

Think backyard barbecue but someone else is doing all the work. All you have to do is choose which animal to eat and whether you’ll be soothing your watering mouth with a grain- or grape-based beverage while nose fills with the smell of the churrasco. Tasca do Gordo is a gem in Belem with a massive backyard where the kids can run wild while you tuck into espetadas and plates of beans. It’s that simple.

Where: Belém
Address: R. dos Cordoeiros a Pedrouços 33, 1400-071 Lisboa
What to order: espetadas (meat skewers)

Read next… Where to eat in Belém

North Lisbon tascas: Alvalade, Lumiar, Benfica, Campolide

Tasquinha do Lagarto

Open since 1973, this tasca started as a café and snack bar with games tables and has since become one of Lisbon’s best addresses. The first thing you’ll notice in Tasquinha do Largato is the sports paraphernalia lining every wall, particularly that of Lisbon’s football team Sporting. Inside the menu is short but well priced. I’ve tried almost all of it and every visit the food has been fantastic. 

Where: Campolide
Address: R. de Campolide 258, Lisboa
What to order: atum cebolada (tuna and onions), polvo á lagaeiro (baked octopus with potatoes)

Read next… Guide to Lisbon’s hottest tables for 2025

Adega Solar Minhoto

Bitoque. It’s a Lisbon dish – basically a thin steak topped with a fried egg and served with chips. I’ve seen plenty of Lisboetas and Portuguese chefs name this Alvalade tasca as the top spot for a bitoque, so of course we tried it (and it’s great). This is one of the best tascas in Lisbon. It squeezes 45 people in and has almost as many dishes to choose from, so you don’t have to order a steak — but you should. Go early, no reservations.

Where: Alvalade
Address: Av. Rio de Janeiro 29F, 1700-111 Lisboa
What to order: bitoque

Read next… Lisbon restaurants open Sunday and Monday

Pirilampo

Whether it’s true or not, I personally consider Alvalade to be the most Portuguese city suburb of Lisbon. It’s a little bit out of the centre, but it has a supremely cosmopolitan feeling with a busy main street. I think its location means the expat crowd and tourists haven’t infiltrated the neighbourhood (yet). Everything in this area is for the locals, and this tasca – Pirilampo – is just off the main street is a classic that’s hit the mark on both visits.

Where: Alvalade
Address: R. Acácio de Paiva 4, 1700-005 Lisboa
What to order: anything, but I recall feeling particularly fond of the choco frito (fried cuttlefish)

Wish someone could shortcut your Portugal research? ➼ Talk to me – I offer 1:1 video calls to help people cut through the noise and plan a perfect Portugal itinerary. Find out more here.

Cantina do Mercado

Attached to Lisbon’s best fresh produce markethall – Mercado 31 de Janeiro – is Cantina, a relaxed lunchtime fish grill. Here you’ll choose from grilled market fish or meat, served simply. Go early as it gets busy with office workers from nearby buildings. 

Where: Saldanha, Mercado 31 de Janeiro
What to order: fish

Jaguar

When I eat out I’m often looking to try something new or different, and at Jaguar I finally got to try maranhos, which is a type of sausage from central Portugal made with rice, meat and mint inside. Strange? Yes, but I loved it. You’ll find this classic tasca close to the beautiful Jardim Gulbenkian. Inside the dining room is a timewarp to the 70s, outside is a large terrace in the shade.

Where: São Sebastião
Address: Av. Conde Valbom 87, 1050-067 Lisboa
What to order: maranhos if they have it

Adega das Gravatas

Best octopus in Lisbon at Adega das Gravatas

Many would argue Adega das Gravatas is a traditional Portugues restaurante not a tasca. But I’m not here to fight, just to tell you about good place to eat good food – and this is one of them. Here you’ll want to order the polvo á lagareiro as the portion is generous. Meat lovers will enjoy the naco na pedra (steak cooked on a hot stone at your table).

Where: Carnide
Address: Tv. Pregoeiro 15, 1600-588 Lisboa
What to order: polvo á lagareiro (octopus and potatoes), naco na pedra (steak)

Lisbon’s next-generation wave of modern tascas

O Velho Eurico

The first time I visited O Velho Eurico it was a killer, old-school tasca with some of the best polvo á lagareiro (olive oil octopus) and bacalhau no forno (baked salted cod) in the city, and one of those plate-dwarfing steaks that are becoming increasingly rare. When the owner retired, a young chef called Zé Paulo Rocha took over and flipped it into a menu of traditional petiscos (small plates like tapas), elevated just the tiniest bit while keeping the old soul of the place. A hand-written chalkboard details what’s on offer each day.

Where: Castelo
Address: Largo São Cristóvão nº3, 1100-179 Lisboa
What to order: Lamb croquettes, arroz de pato, chambao, 

Taberna Sal Grosso

Bring a group and order one of everything on the menu. A big black chalkboard dictates the dishes of the moment – usually small and medium-sized plates with everything from tuna pica pau to fried quail and sweet ribs. The food has a distinctively Portuguese root, but it’s more influenced by the world than other modern taverns in Lisbon.

Where: Alfama
Address: Calçada do Forte 22, 1100-256 Lisboa
What to order: chicken with leitão (peppery gravy) sauce, tuna pica-pau (seared tuna with pickles)

Cacué

I wasn’t sure where to place this gem, which stays true to traditional Portuguese cooking but in a beautiful space with great care. The prices are higher at Cacué than your lunchtime canteen tasca, but it’s a top spot to try the best version of traditional dishes, with no twists or turns. See also Suzana, another dining gem cut from the same cloth.

Where: Saldanha
Address: R. Tomás Ribeiro 93 C, 1050-227 Lisboa
What to order: cabidela, bacalhau á Brás

Tasca Baldracca

Tasca Baldracca is perhaps the most daring of the new wave spots on this list, mixing Portuguese flavours with more international influences. For example, the scotch egg with mortadela (Portuguese blood sausage) is fantastic, and I adore the steak tartare. 

Where: Castelo
Address: R. das Farinhas 1, 1100-177 Lisboa
What to order: you can’t really go wrong here

Read next… The Best Food Tours & Experiences in Lisbon

Petisco Saloio

While some spots blow up in international media (here’s looking at you, Velho Eurico), others continue to fly under the radar. Petisco is Portugal’s equivalent of tapas, and I’m a huge fan of this spot, which serves up slightly refined traditional small plates. Call ahead to book a table on the terrace – Petisco Saloio is a tiny space and popular with locals.

Where: Campo Pequeno
Adress: Av. Barbosa du Bocage 38, 1000-072 Lisboa
What to order: you can’t really go wrong here

A Obra

This little restaurant on Lisbon’s “Green Street” was a recently surprise. From the small kitchen A Obra serves a modern Portuguese menu to tables on the leafy street. Very charming, very delicious. It seems like the menu changes a lot but I loved the octopus rice, the asparagus and the prawn sandwich. 

Where: São Bento/Santos
Address: R. da Silva 21, 1200-446 Lisboa
What to order: seafood

Maps of my favourite tascas in Lisbon

That’s my list of what I think are the best tascas in Lisbon. I’m always visiting new spots and adding to my list – add your suggestions in the comments!

Keep reading….

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Lisbon restaurants open Sunday and Monday https://oladaniela.com/lisbon-sunday-monday-restaurants/ https://oladaniela.com/lisbon-sunday-monday-restaurants/#respond Mon, 29 Jul 2024 09:02:51 +0000 https://oladaniela.com/?p=12687 The beauty of being on vacation is that the day of the week doesn’t matter. It might be a Monday when you decide it’s prime time for a long Portuguese lunch with white wine in the sunshine. But of course, days of the week matter to the locals – especially since many restaurants and bars […]

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The beauty of being on vacation is that the day of the week doesn’t matter. It might be a Monday when you decide it’s prime time for a long Portuguese lunch with white wine in the sunshine. But of course, days of the week matter to the locals – especially since many restaurants and bars tend to be closed in Lisbon on Sundays and Mondays. 

But this isn’t a hard rule. Let’s look at what it’s like in Lisbon on Sunday and Monday, and then dive into where you can eat and drink in the capital.

See any errors in this article? Just let me know! I do my best to keep things updated around here.

General tips for finding restaurants open on Sunday in Lisbon

Sunday is a family day in Lisbon. Supermarkets and most mini markets will be open seven days, but in more traditional or local neighbourhoods you can expect most restaurants to be closed. In the centre of the city, where there is more tourism, this won’t be the case. Any restaurants by the beach – so along the Cascais train line (Carcavelos, Parede, Estoril) or south of the river (the beach bars in Costa da Caparica) will also be open. 

Compared to other European cities that shut down almost entirely on Sundays, I find Lisbon to be quite open. Sunday can be quite a good day for culture too. But note that in 2024, Portuguese residents have free access to a lot of museums and palaces for free, so this can make those spaces busier on Sundays.

Tips for places open on Monday in Lisbon

Monday is a workday, and the Portuguese love to eat out for lunch. Monday it is fairly easy to find local tascas or Portuguese restaurants open for a midday meal. If you’re in the city, use Monday as a chance to find a menu do dia or daily menu. Often you can enjoy a meal, wine, coffee and bread or soup for around €10. If you don’t have a place in mind, follow the suits!

Also note that on Mondays in Lisbon, many monuments and attractions tend to close – so plan ahead if you have any museums or landmarks on your list. 

Anyway, if you find yourself in Lisbon looking for restaurants or bars open on Sunday or Monday, take a look at my list below.

Read next… How to spend 48 hours in Lisbon: Two-day itinerary

Best Lisbon restaurants open on Sunday and Monday

Here’s where to eat in Lisbon on a Sunday and Monday. I’ve included the neighbourhood, address, and whether they are open for lunch or dinner.

Tascas or taverns open on Sunday and/or Monday


Galeto

Galeto is unlike anywhere else in Lisbon. This classic counter-dining spot has been open since the 1950s (without much change!) and is famously open until 3am or so seven days a week. It’s the sort of spot you can drop in for breakfast, stop by for dinner, or roll up for a midnight snack.

📍Saldanha – ​​Av. da República 14
⏱Sunday & Monday until 3am and 3.30am

Taberna Sal Grosso

This is one of my favourite spots to eat in Lisbon, and it’s open seven days a week. You’ll need to reserve a table online to dine at this relaxed modern Portuguese diner. Taberna Sal Grosso serves up traditional Portuguese dishes reimagined with some chef techniques.

📍Alfama – Calçada do Forte 22
⏱Sunday & Monday lunch & dinner

Read next… Guide to Lisbon’s hottest tables for 2025

A Valenciana

For frango de churrasco or grilled peri-peri chicken, A Valenciana is the most famous spot in Lisbon. This temple of charcoal chicken is open Sundays, but closed on Mondays. 

📍Campolide – Rua Marquês de Fronteira 157
⏱Sunday 11.30am until 11pm, closed Monday

Casa do Alentejo – restaurant and tavern

Casa de Alentejano restaurant, Lisbon
Casa do Alentejano

I adore visiting Casa do Alentejo – it’s a beautiful palace with Moorish-inspired architecture hidden in plain sight. Within there’s a ballroom, a restaurant, and a tavern with a courtyard, which is somewhere I often like to go with guests on private food tours. Upstairs is a mid-range Alentejo-cuisine restaurant set in some stunning tiled rooms. Downstairs the tavern serves Alentejo petiscos (small share plates or tapas).

📍Baixa/Rossio – Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 58
⏱Sunday & Monday lunch & dinner

Read next… Where to eat in Baixa, Lisbon

Taberna Os Papagaios

The mastermind behind Sal Grosso, Joaquim Saragga, opened Os Papagaios in 2024, and naturally it’s become an instant classic for modern Portuguese share plates that don’t deviate too far from their roots.

📍Arroios – Rua Lucinda Simões 13
⏱Sunday & Monday lunch & dinner

Adega das Gravatas

Best octopus in Lisbon at Adega das Gravatas

This Portuguese restaurant does one of the best polvo á lagareiro (baked octopus with potatoes) that I’ve seen in Lisbon. Its name, Adega das Gravatas, means Tie Cellar, and from the rafters hang hundreds of colourful men’s ties. 

​​📍​​Benfica – Travessa Pregoeiro 15
⏱Sunday lunch & dinner, closed Monday

Casa da Índia

Despite the name, Casa da Índia actually serves traditional Portuguese food. I’ve noticed this unrefined downtown tasca become insanely popular, so venture in early to secure a table.

📍Chiado – ​​Rua do Loreto 49
⏱Monday lunch & dinner, closed Sunday

Jorge d’Amália

Pica pau at Jorge d'Amalia in Lisbon, a gerat snack bar

This tiny husband-and-wife tasca in Ajuda, located in the western wings of Lisbon, is open Mondays lunch and dinner. Order Jorge d’Amália’s legendary bitoque, served in the pan with garlic, bay leaves, olive oil, and an egg.

📍Ajuda – Calçada da Memória 20
⏱Monday lunch & dinner, closed weekends

O Sardinha

In downtown Alfama, O Sardinha is a tiny, cheap tasca run by an elderly husband-and-wife who serve dinner on Sundays. Go for the bitoque.

📍Alfama/Santa Apolónia – Rua Jardim do Tabaco 18
⏱Sunday dinner

Read next… Best food tours in Lisbon

Mid-range dining – Portuguese and contemporary cuisine open Sunday and Monday in Lisbon

Find international food (tacos, Taiwanese…) suggestions further down


Gambrinus

This Lisbon classic first opened in 1936, and inside you’ll find an old-world European restaurant frozen in the mid 1960s. Gambrinus has a sit-down restaurant, but many prefer the bar where you can stop for a croquette with mustard.

📍Baixa – Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 23
⏱Sunday & Monday lunch & dinner

Tati

Tati is a fantastic modern bistro that combines creative share plates with natural wines. The chef is Argentinian, so expect a mix of flavours from across the globe.

📍Penha da Franca – Rua Carrilho Videira 20B
⏱Sunday dinner from 6pm

Pica-Pau

For perfect executions of traditional Portuguese food, Pica-Pau hits the mark. This relaxed yet elevated Portuguese restaurant is a good spot to try the classics.

📍Principe Real – Rua da Escola Politécnica 27
⏱Sunday & Monday lunch & dinner

Café de São Bento

Open since 1982, this very Portuguese spot has a reputation for its high-quality steak. The most famous is the bife à Café de São Bento, which is steak with a creamy sauce.

📍São Bento – Rua de São Bento 212
⏱Sunday dinner, Monday lunch & dinner

Read more… The best pastel de nata cooking classes in Lisbon

Bairro do Avillez

Portuguese chef José Avillez built a mini neighbourhood of restaurants in Chiado called Bairro do Avillez. They are open both Sunday and Monday, so you can try Portuguese petiscos at Taberna, seafood dishes at Pateo, and gastrobar snacks at Mini Bar. 

📍Chiado – Rua Nova da Trindade 18
⏱Sunday & Monday lunch & dinner, except Mini Bar only dinner

Cantinho do Avillez

Personally, I’m a bigger fan of ​​José Avillez’s Cantinho. Also in Chiado, this more intimate spot is a great place to try slightly elevated Portuguese dishes.

📍Chiado – Duques de Bragança 7 || Parque do Nações – Rua do Bojador 55
⏱Sunday & Monday lunch & dinner

A Casa do Bacalhau

Portugal is obsessed with bacalhau, the salted cod fish, and this reputable restaurant serves up excellent cod dishes in Lisbon on Sundays and Mondays too.

📍Marvila – Rua do Grilo 54
⏱Sunday & Monday lunch & dinner

Sea Me Peixaria Moderna

This modern Portuguese seafood restaurant serves fresh fish and shellfish as nature – and the Portuguese – intended, as well as with a twist. 

📍Chiado – Rua do Loreto 21
⏱Sunday & Monday lunch & dinner

Read next… Best places to eat octopus in Lisbon

Fine dining & serious seafood on a Sunday or Monday

We know what they say about fresh fish on a Monday – but we do have refrigerators now too.


Cervejaria Liberdade

If you love seafood, then you must dine at a “cervejaria” or “marisqueira” while in Portugal. This type of restaurant serves fresh shellfish and prawns by the kilo in a usually informal environment. Cervejaria Liberdade is located on Lisbon’s luxury avenue, so expect to pay for the privilege.

📍Avenida – Av. da Liberdade 185
⏱Sunday & Monday lunch & dinner

Cervejaria Ramiro

Ramiro is Portugal’s most famous seafood restaurant, made famous by its long legacy and a visit from Anthony Bourdain. Despite the fame, this bustling seafood house maintains its high quality – and it’s a brilliant spot to eat prawns, clams, and goose barnacles by the kilo. Treat yourself to the red scarlett prawns – carabineiro – if you have the budget to splurge.

📍Intendente – Av. Almirante Reis 1
⏱Sunday lunch & dinner, closed Monday

Nunes Real Marisqueira

You can find many more cervejarias and marisqueiras in Lisbon, so I’ll round out with Nunes. This famous spot in Belém recently had an Art Deco makeover, so from the velvet-clad, glitzy interiors you can tuck into fresh prawns and even a lobster bitoque.

📍Belém – R. Bartolomeu Dias 172 E
⏱Sunday & Monday lunch & dinner

Read next… Where to eat in Belém: Local’s guide to the best restaurants, snacks and bars

Brilhante

If you’re looking to treat yourself to an old-world brasserie experience, look to Brilhante. Get cosy in a booth or at the counter and tuck into the bife à Brilhante steak, or the arroz de lavagante (lobster rice).

📍​​Cais do Sodré – Rua Moeda 1H
⏱Sunday non-stop service, Monday lunch & dinner

Cura

For a very special treat, the Michelin one-star restaurant Cura is the spot for any day of the week. Celebrate your birthday or an anniversary on a Sunday or Monday night with the tasting menu here.

📍Marquês de Pombal – Ritz, Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca 88
⏱Sunday & Monday dinner, book ahead

Restaurante Bahr

This restaurant set within the five-star Bairro Alto Hotel is a great destination for modern Portuguese without needing to commit to a tasting menu.

📍 Chiado – Bairro Alto Hotel, Praça Luís de Camões 2
⏱Sunday & Monday breakfast, lunch & dinner

International cuisine open Sunday or Monday in Lisbon


Carnal – Mexican

This Mexican gastrobar comes from the team behind Bistro 100 Maneiras, a Michelin-starred fine diner. Carnal is a great date night spot.

📍​​Chiado – Rua da Misericórdia 78
⏱Sunday & Monday dinner

Pausa – Italian

This casual wine, pasta and focaccia bar comes from the team behind the acclaimed Italian restaurant Ruvida (also open Sunday!). At Pausa you’ll receive the entire pasta pan with a slice of focaccia so you can mop up the sauce. 

📍​​Alcântara – de Cascais 15
⏱Sunday non-stop service, Monday closed

Laranja Tigre – modern Goan

Portugal has colonial connections to Goa, and this spot is a modern interpretation from chef Hugo Brito.

📍​​Bairro Alto – Rua do Norte 17
⏱Sunday non-stop service, Monday closed

Taqueria Paloma – tacos

Paloma is a great spot for delicious tacos and good vibes. The eatery fills a huge warehouse in the east of the city, and specialises in Northern-style tacos.

📍​​Marvila – Praça David Leandro da Silva 9A
⏱Sunday non-stop service, Monday closed

Tapisco – tapas

This spot from famous chef Henrique Sá Pessoa combines Portuguese and Spanish tapas at Tapisco, a city classic open on Sundays and Mondays.

📍​​Príncipe Real – Rua Dom Pedro V 81 
⏱Sunday & Monday lunch & dinner

Formosa – Taiwanese

This might be Portugal’s only Taiwanese spot, and the fried chicken is fabulous. 

📍​​Príncipe Real – Rua de O Século 149A
⏱Sunday & Monday lunch & dinner

Gunpowder – modern Indian

This upmarket and modern Indian spot serves mostly seafood-focused dishes. My favourites at Gunpowder are the seafood pilaf and the meat doughnut

📍​​Chiado – Rua Nova da Trindade 13
⏱Sunday lunch & dinner, Monday only dinner

Cantinho do Aziz – Mozambican 

This casual spot is the most famous of Lisbon’s Mozambican restaurants. Here you could try muamba, a chicken dish with okra, or the prawn curry. 

📍​​Mouraria – Rua de São Lourenço 5
⏱Sunday & Monday lunch & dinner

Kefi – modern Greek

I really love Kefi, a gorgeous light-filled Greek diner. It keeps things traditional while also adding a modern touch to its share plates.

📍​​Estrela – Calçada da Estrela 187
⏱Sunday & Monday lunch & dinner

The Oven – Nepalese & Indian

I remember reading about a young Nepalese chef who wanted to elevate his cuisine. He’s achieved it at Oven, where you watch the fun of the proper tandoori oven and order top interpretations of Indian and Nepalese dishes. 

📍​​Baixa – Rua dos Fanqueiros 232
⏱Sunday lunch & dinner, Monday closed

Tozzi – pizza

I’m a fan of this creative pizza spot, that offers both traditional flavours and more creative pizzas.  

📍​​Saldanha – Rua Latino Coelho 69A
⏱Sunday lunch & dinner, Monday closed

Lupita – pizza

This is Lisbon’s most popular pizza spots. It’s fantastic and I crave it often but rarely go as you can expect queues and very long wait times, even on Mondays.

📍​​Cais do Sodré – Rua de Sao Paulo 79
⏱Sunday & Monday lunch & dinner

Bars open Sunday and Monday in Lisbon


Imprensa – cocktails and oysters

One of my favourite bars in Lisbon is Imprensa, which now has two locations. Both are open Sunday and Mondday. The original in Príncipe Real is open from 6pm daily, while the Baixa one opens from 4pm daily. 

📍Príncipe Real – Rua da Imprensa Nacional 46 & Baixa – Rua de São Nicolau 24
⏱Sunday & Monday from 6pm and 4pm

Toca da Raposa – creative cocktails

For really creative and off-beat cocktails, Toca da Raposa is super fun. It’s open 7 days a week too!

📍Chiado – Rua da Condessa 45
⏱Sunday & Monday 6pm – 2am

A Viagem das Horas – wine, vinyl and Basque cheesecake

This cool wine bar in Arroios is only open during the week. Drop in to buy wines takeaway, or sit down to listen to vinyl and eat cheesecake by Basqo.

📍Arroios – Rua José Ricardo 1
⏱Monday 5pm-11pm

Liquid Love – Italian snacks and drinks

This gorgeous wine and cocktail bar serves up Italian-inspired snacks on a Sunday night.

📍Intendente – Rua do Desterro 5
⏱Sunday from 7pm

Pharmacia Felicidade – snacks and cocktails

Chef Susana Felicidade serves up delicious cocktails and Portuguese snacks and share plates at this sunny pharmacy-themed terrace and garden bar. The river views at Pharmacia Felicidade are a bonus.

📍Santos – Rua de Santa Catarina 2 e 4
⏱Sunday & Monday 12pm-12am

Damas – share plates and music

Damas is a really cool spot to both eat well and connect with culture. Expect modern Portuguese food, and cool music you can dance too. There is sometimes live bands too.

📍 Graça – Rua da Voz do Operário 60
⏱ Sunday from 7.30pm

Onda – cocktail bar

This tiny Graça cocktail bar has served me some of the best drinks in Lisbon, and luckily Onda is open both Sunday and Monday nights.

📍Graça – Rua Damasceno Monteiro 45
⏱Sunday & Monday from 5pm

Find any great restaurants, tascas or bars open on a Sunday or Monday in Lisbon? Or see a mistake? Leave me a comment…


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Where to eat in Évora: best restaurants, cafés & sweets https://oladaniela.com/where-to-eat-evora/ https://oladaniela.com/where-to-eat-evora/#respond Thu, 16 May 2024 11:00:37 +0000 https://oladaniela.com/?p=12188 If I had to pick a favourite regional Portuguese cuisine I’d choose the Alentejo. This expansive land of cork trees, olive groves, and vineyards has produced some of my all-time favourite Portuguese dishes.  At the heart of it all lies Évora, the Alentejo capital, a small whitewashed city finished with yellow trim where you’ll find […]

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If I had to pick a favourite regional Portuguese cuisine I’d choose the Alentejo. This expansive land of cork trees, olive groves, and vineyards has produced some of my all-time favourite Portuguese dishes. 

At the heart of it all lies Évora, the Alentejo capital, a small whitewashed city finished with yellow trim where you’ll find traditional restaurants tucked down cobblestone alleyways next to Roman temples or medieval churches. Out here eating local is just known as, well, eating. In Évora the portions are hearty, the hospitality is warm, and I’m not sure you can have a bad meal. 

Évora may be a city with more than 2,000 years of history, but it has a young heart. Some young chefs have stayed, moved back, or found their feet with small restaurants slinging the unexpected or pulling modern takes on traditional Alentejo cuisine. Évora is a fascinating place to visit for the history and culture, but I promise you’ll want to linger for the food. 

Here’s everywhere I suggest you eat while in the small city of Évora. Make sure you try local dishes such as migas or sericaia, which are hard to find beyond the Alentejo’s borders.

Read next… Where to Shop in Évora


The best restaurants in Évora

Taberna Típica Quarta-Feira  – €€

One does not simply walk out of Taberna Típica Quarta-Feira – you’re all but guaranteed to roll your way down the rustic cobblestone alleyway after this meal. This family-run tavern works with a set menu. For around €35 the owner will bring out a seemingly never-ending parade of plates, big and small. You’ll try regional specialities, house inventions, and deliciously hearty mains. Think traditional Portuguese but with a homely twist. Booking ahead is essential.

Rua do Inverno 18, ÉvoraQuarta-feira Facebook | Google Maps

O Templo – €

For a cosy meal, O Templo is a great stop for a traditional Alentejo lunch or dinner. The rustic family-run restaurant is named after the city’s most famous sight, the Roman temple, and here they serve a mix of Alentejo petiscos (similar to tapas) and hearty meals.

Rua do Escrivão da Câmara 2B, Évora | Google Maps

Read next… 48 hours in Évora

Botequim da Mouraria – €€

For a taste of Alentejo cuisine, look no further than the bar at Botequim da Mouraria. Since 1995, Domingos and Florbela have been serving delicious snacks – like fried quail’s eggs and smoked meats, or scrambled eggs with wild asparagus – at the countertop of their nine-seater Évora tavern. It’s only open for lunch, and only during the week. It’s not possible to make reservations, so arrive early.

Rua da Mouraria 16A, Évora | Google Maps

Read next…. 48 hours in Monsaraz

Fialho – €€/€€€ 

This temple of Alentejo gastronomy is now in the hands of its third generation. An institution of local food and good wine, Restaurante Fialho has been open since 1945. Within you’ll find a charming European interior with antique plates on the walls, crisp white tablecloths, and waiters in waistcoats delivering old-school silver service. Here you can try more unusual or refined Alentejo dishes, such as pigeon rice, rabbit pies, dogfish soup, or partridge Convento da Cartuxa-style.

Travessa das Mascarenhas 14, Évora | O Fialho website | Google Maps

TascaTosca – €

This little wine bar is tucked down one of Évora’s most charming streets, Alcarcova de Baixo, where you’ll find a dozen or so tiny restaurants whose terraces sprawl out across the backstreet. We stumbled into TascaTosca one day after a light lunch when we saw the menu of Alentejo petiscos (tapas). There’s a great choice of cured meats made with porco preto – the prized black pork. Plus I love the cheeses from the award-winning Monte da Vinha.

Alcarcova de Baixo 53, Évora | TascaTosca website | Google Maps

Wish someone could shortcut your Portugal research? ➼ Talk to me – I offer 1:1 video calls to help people cut through the noise and plan their perfect Portugal itinerary. Find out more here.

Tua Madre – €€/€€€ 

On the same street as TascaTosca, Tua Madre is one of Évora’s most exciting restaurant projects. From this small and relaxed tavern space comes an ever-changing menu rooted in Italian and Portuguese cuisine. The chefs lean on small producers who grow seasonal, organic and bio products, and the wine list is also filled with organic, biodynamic and natural vinhos.

Alcarcova de Baixo 55, Évora | Tua Madre website | Google Maps

Café Alentejo – €/€€

Cosy, local spots are among my favourite places to eat, and Café Alentejo ticks that box. Step inside the moody, red cellar to find a bustling restaurant filled with local families celebrating mid-week birthdays and an extensive menu of Alentejo cuisine. This spot has been open since 1999.

Rua do Raimundo 5, Évora | Café Alentejo website | Google Maps

O Moinho do Cu Torto – €

Outside the old town, the “Crooked Arse Windmill” is a little restaurant set in the grounds of a charming old windmill. At O Moinho do Cu Torto there’s a little house, styled like a grandmother’s living room, serving up traditional Alentejo dishes in a rustic setting. Or you can sit outside in the garden beneath the mill, feasting on açorda do cação (dogfish soup), migas de espargos (asparagus migas – bread mash), or various grilled meats.

Rua de Santo André 2A, Évora | Facebook | Google Maps

Cavalariça Évora – €€/€€€

You should run a mile from most restaurants located next to the city’s star attraction, but thankfully that’s not the case in charming Évora. Cavalariça is a chic restaurant set within the expansive courtyard of the Dukes of Cadaval Palace, right next door to the famous Roman temple. Besides the modern Portuguese plates, the star here is panels painted by South African artist Esther Mahlangu in 2018. She was 82 at the time of the art exhibition here, and her colourful Ndebele tribal forms cover the columns, arch and wall of the courtyard. The first Cavalariça in beachside Comporta has a reputation for having the best food in town, and the  Évora edition is just as chic. 

Palácio dos Duques de Cadaval, Rua Augusto Filipe Simões, Évora | Cavalariça website | Google Maps

Bakeries & cafés in Evora

Pastelaria Conventual Pão de Rala – €

Across Portugal every village, town and city has a signature sweet – and these sweets are always linked to religious orders. Portugal’s most famous “convent” sweet is the pastel de nata from Lisbon. Évora’s equivalent might be azevias de grão, a cinnamon and sugar-dusted sweet from Convento de Santa Clara de Évora. This convent along with Convento do Paraíso are represented in the hand-painted tile panels within this small bakery. You could also try the namesake sweet, Pão de Rala, which is made of almond, egg yolk sugar and water, or little queijadas de Évora with egg yolk, almond, or ricotta filling.

Rua de Cicioso 47, Évora | Google Maps

Pastelaria Violeta – €

If you can resist the cake-stuffed windows of Pastelaria Violeta then you are stronger than I am. There’s something about the glistening layers of cake shining beneath the marble-carved sign that makes me weak at the knees. Pastelaria Violeta is the oldest in the city, with more than 120 years of history. Here you can try many Évora specialties, such as pão de rala or queijinho do ceú. Apparently they still make marzipan here over fire, the old-fashioned way!

Rua José Elias Garcia 47, Évora | Google Maps

Quiosque Jardim Diana – €

There are few places in the world where you can admire a 1st-century Roman temple while enjoying lunch and a drink for under €5. Quiosque Jardim Diana is nothing fancy – it’s much like any other no-frills park kiosk in Portugal. Expect to find simple drinks, snacks, toasted sandwiches, and ice-cream. Don’t expect five-star service or anything gourmet. Simple!

Rua Francisco Soares Lusitano, Évora | Google Maps

Other places to eat in Évora

I try to keep it real here and only write in-depth about the places I’ve personally visited myself. I live in Lisbon, so I’m able to return to Évora semi-regularly, and I’ll extend this article as I try new places.

Since I only have one stomach and a limited food budget, I don’t like to gatekeep – so instead I’m sharing my food research. Here are other restaurants you could try in Évora. 

More places to eat in Évora downtown

  • Híbrido – a very cool project from a young chef. 
  • Tasquinha do Oliveira – old-school spot with traditional Alentejo cuisine.
  • Cozinha da Catarina – homely Alentejo food in a rustic setting with cute terracotta crockery.
  • Dom Joaquim – this place is a bit of an Évora institution, which has even caught the eye of Michelin judges. Here you can try even more Alentejo cuisine including seasonal game dishes and rarer Alentejo dishes.
  • Origens – serves contemporary Alentejo cuisine using seasonal local ingredients. A female chef at the helm!
  • Do Largo – there’s no specialty coffee in Évora yet, but this gorgeous day-time café spills out onto a square, pulls a decent coffee and serves top-quality wines. It’s connected to an organic herb farm.

Is Évora worth a visit?

Absolutely! It’s one of the prettiest and unique towns in Portugal. Discover more than a dozen things to do in Évora with my travel guide, and read my blog about the best artisan stores and historic boutiques in town.

Where to stay in Évora

You can stay anywhere in the old city centre of Évora and be within walking distance of the top sights and best restaurants, tascas, or sweet shops. Évora is fairly flat, so it’s easy to navigate – it is filled with cobblestone streets that may be tricky to traverse if you have mobility issues.

That’s my list of the best restaurants, cafés and bakeries in Évora. Leave a comment with your favourite spot, or if you try any of these places!

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Where to eat in Porto https://oladaniela.com/where-to-eat-in-porto/ https://oladaniela.com/where-to-eat-in-porto/#comments Mon, 08 Jan 2024 22:18:43 +0000 http://oladaniela.com/?p=7806 Francesinhas (the everything sandwich). Pork steak sandwiches. Offal stew. Spicy hot dogs. The food in the north of Portugal is heavier, that’s for sure.  I adore Porto (and its food). It has everything you want and need from a city in a small walkable centre that’s cheaper than Lisbon. I’ve visited countless times now, and […]

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Francesinhas (the everything sandwich). Pork steak sandwiches. Offal stew. Spicy hot dogs. The food in the north of Portugal is heavier, that’s for sure. 

I adore Porto (and its food). It has everything you want and need from a city in a small walkable centre that’s cheaper than Lisbon. I’ve visited countless times now, and each time my goal is to get to know Porto’s food scene deeper.

In this guide on where to eat in Porto I’ve rounded up some of my favourite local spots and unmissable Porto institutions. The city punches above its weight with non-Portuguese eateries too, so I’ve included a few favourites international food spots in Porto.

Eat well, walk it off and enjoy getting lost in this old city.

➡ Want to join a food tour in Porto? 🍴 I can recommend this top-rated small-group food tour that visits Porto’s beautiful Bolhão Market, includes historic stops and a side of history.

Need help deciding what to order? Portuguese food isn’t easy to sum up in a sentence or two so it’s worth taking a look at my guide to 25 of the most common dishes before you get started.

Best restaurants and tascas for Portuguese food in Porto

Culture note: At local Portuguese restaurants table snacks will likely be dropped on your table at the start of the meal. They’re not free, so just shoo them away or ask for them to be removed if you don’t want them. Also a “dose” usually feeds two people, so a half dose (meia dose) is for one. Portuguese maths! 

Adega São Nicholau – €€

I’d heard Adega São Nicholau is where Porto chefs like to eat Portuguese food in the city, and they’re not wrong. Despite the downtown location in Ribeira, the riverfront area now overrun by throngs of tourists, Adega São Nicholau remains a top spot to eat in Porto.

I’ve been here five times now and often take visiting friends here as the quality, variety and price align nicely. Every dish is a hit and the menu changes frequently, but they seem to always have the bacalhau (salt cod) croquettes, and a polvo á lagareiro, which is octopus with roast potatoes. Arrive 15 minutes before opening to snag the first outdoor table, which enjoys partial river views.

Tip: The same owners run Terreiro, which is right next door. So if you can’t get a table at Adega São Nicholau and are wondering where else to eat lunch or dinner in Porto… just wander next door. The two have a lot of similar dishes. Terreiro has better views, a huge terrace, and it’s usually easy to get a table.

Adega São Nicholau Facebook

Restaurante Antunes – €€

Come here and order the house specialty: pernil assado no forno. A giant terracotta baking dish with a huge baked ham leg and the best potatoes and gravy I’ve ever tasted landed on our table. One thing I miss living in Portugal is proper baked ham at Christmas, but now I’ve found a source. Designed to feed two, we were beyond stuffed and saw others comfortably splitting it between three. The locals at the table next door were pairing it with espadal, a cheap, slightly sparkling pink rosé wine from the vinho verde region, so we did the same. Finish with a rabanada (french toast) and enjoy pouring the sweet sauce over the cinnamon toast yourself.

Restaurante Antunes on Google Maps

Read next: Best tiles in Porto: Where to find Porto’s most beautiful azulejos

O Buraco – €

At lunchtime on a Tuesday this tasca was pumping. Inside, big tables of work colleagues and solo diners were tucking into plates of bacalhau, fried fish and grilled steak. I’d heard this was a great spot for fish, and the house bacalhau might be the best we’ve had. Don’t skip the rabanada (french toast) for dessert. Curious about the changing menu? They post it daily on the Facebook page.

Read next… Best Porto wine tasting tours (that I’ve done)

Lado B – €

You’ve likely heard of the francesinha, a monstrous sandwich that can barely be called a sandwich. Stuffed with a steak, ham and two types of sausage, mortadella and cheese, then topped with a fried egg, slices of cheese and drowned in a special sauce, this dish is a Porto classic and a must-eat food while in there city. You’ll find restaurants and snack bars all over Porto where you can try them. I’ve tasted plenty – at least one per Porto trip – and my current favourite is Lado B. Order fries for the sauce, ask for more sauce (if you run low), and order beer to help wash it down.

Lado B Website

Below in the picture: Lado B’s francesinha on the left, Brasão on the right.

Brasão – €€

While usually bright white lights, steel countertops and paper tablecloths means you’re in for an excellent treat, this famous spot for francesinhas is somehow the opposite. Inside, moody lighting and raw brick walls covered in artisanal ceramics firmly place Brasão in the 21st century. Thankfully the prices still mostly align with other spots around town, making this is one of my favourite places for a francesinha in Porto. Brasão has multiple locations in Porto and serves other food too. Reserve a table!

Brasão Website

Read next: The best cooking classes in Porto

Casa Expresso – €

Interior of Casa Expresso, Porto, Portugal

If you’re wondering where to eat lunch in Porto, look for a cheap, cheerful, no-fuss, no-frills sort of spot like Casa Expresso. Tascas are Portuguese bistros, the type of place you could eat at daily. The menu is scribbled on a board in the window and changes daily, with all dishes between €5-6 a plate. The alheira here (a bird sausage with a long, interesting history) was the best I’ve ever had.

Casa Expresso on Google Maps

O Rápido – €€

Food at O Rapido, Porto, Portugal

Right next to São Bento station, in any other city this should be a tourist trap but here it’s a fantastic, classic tasca. This was our final meal before a long train ride back to Lisbon, and lucky us it was cabrito assado no forno (roasted goat) day. There’s a solid standard menu here, but on the website you can see the special plates they cook on certain days each week. For example, if you want to try tripas à moda do Porto pop by on Thursdays and Saturdays. I recommend booking a table online.

O Rápido Facebook

Solar Moinho do Vento – €€½ 

Arroz de costelinha, Solar Moinho do Vento, Porto, Portugal

A restaurant with plenty of history, there’s been a tavern on this corner since 1905, and by the name of Solar Moinho do Vento since 1955. Now the renovated space has white tablecloths, waiters with bow ties and a little old world European elegance with lively, traditional Portuguese food. In the kitchen they make an effort to source meat as locally as possible. We shared a pot of the arroz de costelinha, a savoury rice dish with little pork ribs and spinach. Booking recommended.

Solar Moinho do Vento Website

Read next: The best Portuguese cookbooks in English

Restaurante O Lusitano – €

The smoke of dozens of barbecues wafts high above this one street in Matosinhos, indicating you’re in the right place. Along this short stretch, known as Rua Heróis de França, there are more fish grill restaurants than I ever thought possible – all serving the freshest peixe in the Porto area. If it’s summer, don’t skip a plate of grilled sardines. At O Lusitano the grilled squid was also fantastic, as was the leite creme (creme brulee) that is flamed with tools from the barbecue.

O Lusitano Website

Related Blog: 25 traditional dishes to order in Portugal

Best modern Portuguese restaurants in Porto

Semea by Euskalduna – €€€

From the hands of who is arguably Porto’s most famous chef, Vasco Coelho Santos, comes this more casual gastrobar where fire is the centrepiece. While I’m still eager to take a seat at his Michelin-starred Euskalduna Studio, Semea was the perfect summer dinner with friends. Awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand – a mark of high quality, affordable dining – Semea has a sprawling terrace with views of the Douro River. Our parade of share dishes leaned on Portuguese produce and roots, but often veered wildly – in a good way – in new flavours and pairings. Order what you like – you can’t go wrong – but it’s essential to eat the baked rice.

SEMEA Websitemay be temporarily closed

Oficina dos Rissóis – €

The name roughly translate to “rissol garage”, which makes me giggle every time I think of it. This cheap and cheerful spot is no laughing matter though. This top Porto diner flies under the radar and specialises in rissóis, which are the crumbed pastry you see in the picture. Traditionally, you might find these in a pastelaria and they are usually filled with a prawn gravy of sorts. Here they’ve been given a chef treatment, and you can order a couple served with sides worthy of a smart casual Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant. Big fan of these for a cheap lunch.

Oficina dos Rissóis Website

Read next: How to spend 48 hours in Porto

Wish someone could shortcut your Portugal research? ➼ Talk to me – I offer 1:1 video calls to help people cut through the noise and plan their perfect Portugal itinerary. Find out more here.

Best Portuguese snack bars in Porto

Porto is the city for bread-based snacking so leave your gluten-free friend behind and indulge your food-loving heart to these carbs.

O Astro – €

Beer and bifanas, O Astro, Porto, Portugal

Bifana. It’s essentially just grilled pork meat in a bun. You can add mustard or piri piri if you wish. You can order bifanas just about anywhere in Portugal, and in the north they cook them with a bit of spice. O Astro is maybe my favourite bifana ever. Spicy tender meat sandwiched in a bun. Best enjoyed with a beer and caldo verde (cabbage soup) of course. I’ve been back multiple times just to confirm it really it the best – and it stands up. O Astro is opposite Campanhã railway station. Get off the train there and enjoy.

O Astro Facebook

Conga – €

Beer and bifanas, Conga, Porto, Portugal

In the centre of Porto, this is a famous food spot for spicy northern-style bifanas. But while it’s cured a hangover more than once, Conga’s bifanas are fantastic – but for me O Astro is the king.

O Conga Website

Cervejaria Gazela – €

Spicy hot dogs, Cervejaria Gazela, Porto, Portugal

Mr Anthony Bourdain famously ate one of Gazela’s spicy hot dogs here. Thankfully this publicity hasn’t ruined the joint, and around the tiny counter you’ll still find Porto’s most colourful types throwing banter with the waiters. Go to the original one, snag a seat at the counter, and enjoy the ride at this Porto institution. Good luck stopping at one.  

Gazela Website

Casa dos Presuntos “Xico” – €

When we stepped into this tiny snackbar the counter was full of men standing shoulder-to-shoulder downing a pre-dinner bite and a vinho or cerveja. Above them, antique jugs and a dozen or so hams hung from the ceiling, and near the door a canary was chirping away. With only €10 in our pocket and a cash-only sign we worried about covering the bill for our two inch-thick prosciutto sandwiches and half-litre of vinho verde tinto novo (new red green wine…). We shouldn’t have. There was plenty of change for two more beers and a tip.

Casa dos Presuntos “Xico” on Google Maps

Casa Guedes – €

It’s the sandes de pernil that you have to try. This sandwich of roasted pork meat is a new classic in Porto from this snack bar that opened in 1987. Yep, that “new” label can be hard to shake. Now with three locations in the city, come hungry for a sandes and opt to add sheep’s cheese if you like.

Casa Guedes

Read next: The best Portuguese street food and snacks in Lisbon

Where to eat international food in Porto

Portuguese food is incredible, but after a few days – especially in the north where the traditional dishes are heavier – you’ll need a break too. So here are the best restaurants in Porto cooking food other than Portuguese.

Shiko – €€½ 

This izakaya was a real surprise. Portuguese people love sushi but it’s harder to find spots focused on anything but raw fish rolled in rice and seaweed. I guess it’s like how much of the world thinks Portuguese food is piri piri chicken and natas. Anyway, I kept my expectations for this cool, small Japanese tasca really low, so it ended up blowing my mind a little. It’s clear the small plates at Shiko, like slow-cooked miso eggplant, okonomiyaki and salmon tataki, are designed with a lot of passion. You’ll need at least 2-3 plates each, so it’s not a cheap meal.

Shiko

Ondo Korean Kitchen – €

Serving up Korean comfort food, at this casual diner you’ll find authentic bibimbap, kimbap, tteokbokki, fried chicken and kimchi fried rice. if you can handle the spice, ask for the off-menu kimchi soup – the Portuguese locals can’t handle it, so the owners don’t have it listed. This spot gets busy, so message or call to book a table even during the week.

Ondo Korean Kitchen Instagram

Related Blog: The best specialty coffee and cafes in Porto

Curb Burger – €

I still dream about the burgers from Curb. Sure, eating meat squeezed between bread isn’t so different to half of Porto’s options, but knowing the classic American-style burgers here are so good that it stops me from ordering them in Lisbon.

Curb Burger Website

Thailander – €€

Food at Thailander, Porto, Portugal

Finding good Thai food in Portugal isn’t easy. There are only a handful of restaurants in Lisbon and so far I remain unimpressed, which made this stop all the better. Thailander ~might~ be the best Thai joint in the country, serving up dishes like pad krapow and pad see ew. At lunch there’s a menu that includes a drink and starter.

Thailander Facebook

Bao’s – €

This Taiwanese street food shop is another great surprise, especially since there’s not much open on a Sunday in Porto. There are around eight different fillings for the steamed buns, including a few vegetarian and vegan options. Our favourites were the fried chicken and traditional pork gua bao.

Bao’s Instagram Instagram

Looking for where to eat in Lisbon or for my favourite restaurants in the Algarve? Going to San Sebastián soon?

Read next… Guide to the best Douro Valley winery tours or Portugal Road Trip: Where to stop between Porto and the Douro Valley

To-eat list

This is my personal to-eat list to remind where I’d like to explore on my next visit. It’s usually recommendations from friends, food journalists I admire and Portuguese-speaking media.

  • Casa Nanda
  • A Cozinha do Manel
  • Mistu
  • Mito
  • Apego
  • Almeja
  • Taberna Santo António
  • Gruta
  • Pata Gorda
  • Lessa, Matosinhos
  • Salta o Murro, Matosinhos
  • A Capoeira, Foz
  • O Balcao, Foz
  • Casa do Pescador, Gaia

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Where to eat in Viana do Castelo https://oladaniela.com/where-to-eat-in-viana-do-castelo/ https://oladaniela.com/where-to-eat-in-viana-do-castelo/#respond Tue, 05 Sep 2023 18:43:24 +0000 https://oladaniela.com/?p=10850 One thing I love about dining in Portugal is how each city, town and village offers something new. Same ingredients, a whole new world of food. I recently visited Viana do Castelo for the annual Romaria de Nossa Senhora d’Agonia festival, but I have to say I was as excited about the hearty Minho food […]

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One thing I love about dining in Portugal is how each city, town and village offers something new. Same ingredients, a whole new world of food. I recently visited Viana do Castelo for the annual Romaria de Nossa Senhora d’Agonia festival, but I have to say I was as excited about the hearty Minho food and vinho verde as I was about the beautiful clothing and events. 

Look out for the seafood

Located in the far north-west of Portugal, Viana do Castelo is a pretty and historic city with a long seafaring history and rich fishing industry adding to its food scene. While you think it would be all about fresh fish here, Viana actually has deep links to the cod fishing industry so you’ll find fantastic salted cod dishes such as bacalhau à Minhota and bacalhau à Gomes de Sá at seemingly every restaurant. There are also regional takes on arroz de polvo à moda do Minho (local style octopus rice) and other fish dishes.

And hearty Minho meats

Rojões (fried pork), papas de sarrabulho (savoury meat porridge), and arroz de cabidela (chicken blood rice) all originate from the far north, so you’ll likely see these Minho dishes popping up on menus in Viana do Castelo too. Also look for cabrito assado (roast kid), and arroz de pato (duck rice). If you’re keen to learn more about Minho cuisine, Oh My Cod has a great write-up.

Always order ‘green wine’

Whatever restaurant you choose to eat at in Viana do Castelo, be sure to order a glass, jug or bottle of vinho verde, the refreshing and zesty wine from the north. The vinho verde region produces both light and refreshing white wines and reds, and at restaurants you’ll notice menus offer either verde or maduro wine – meaning “green” or “mature”. 

The slightly effervescent white vinho verde is much loved and commonly found across Portugal. But vinho verde tinto is less universally loved and mostly only found in the north. This rich, fresh and juicy red stains the glass a ruby tone and I love it for two reasons. First, the young and tart reds are often served slightly chilled and are super different to the rich, mature red wines in the rest of the country. And second, in Minho you’ll traditionally drink vinho verde tinto from a small ceramic bowl called a malga. This small ceramic bowl is usually white, showing off the sticky ruby colour. 

Want to learn more about vinho verde? This great vinho verde guide dives into the long history.

Read next: 15 best things to do in Viana do Castelo

Where to eat in Viana do Castelo

Casa Primavera – Taberna Soares – € / €€

For lunch in Viana do Castelo I can’t recommend Taberna Soares more. This is a perfect Minho tasca with two plates of the day, hand-painted wine jars, and a bustling local vibe. The day I visited I could choose from carne estufada or pescada frita as the €10 “pratos do dia”, but there’s also a full menu if they don’t take your fancy. I ordered the pescada, which arrived with a generous portion of perfectly fried fish, rice, and beans with an insanely delicious vinaigrette. I love that they serve the vinho verde da casa (house wine) in the traditional hand-painted vases, and if you order red you’ll get the cups to match. 

For sobremesas (desserts) the pão de ló (half-baked sponge cake) called itself “o melhor do mundo” (best in the world), so naturally I had to find out and I’m happy to report it wasn’t oversold. The square slice of this rich, sweet and eggy sponge cake was awesome.

When I asked my slightly salty waiter for advice on where to go for dinner in Viana, he suggested I return here. After all, it’s the best.

O Manel – €€

For great value dining in an upmarket setting, go to O Manel. You’ll want to make a reservation at this traditional Portuguese restaurant, which serves a wide range of dishes and has a friendly host. I ordered the house-style bacalhau (salted cod), which arrived fried with house-sliced potato discs and sweet sliced onions. It was maybe the best cod dish I’ve eaten in recent memory, and sadly I only made it through half – even with my massive appetite.

Tasquinha da Linda – €€ / €€€

At the port in an old fishing warehouse, this upmarket seafood restaurant makes the most of what comes from the sea. Take a seat and, if you’re lucky, watch the fishermen at work as you sip ice-cold white wine and take your pick from the catch of the day. Tasquinha da Linda is one of ~the spots~ to dine, especially for seafood, in Viana do Castelo.  

Read next: Portugal Road Trip: Where to stop between Lisbon and Porto

Tasquinha da Trincheira – €

At the opposite end of the price scale, this little tasca surprised me. At Tasquinha da Trincheira a sweet local family serves extraordinarily cheap meals at lunch and dinner. Don’t expect anything fancy, just home-style cooking and a handful of choices. It offers a “pilgrim menu” but you don’t have to be walking the Caminho de Santiago to take advantage of this deal. I believe I paid €9 for a delicious vegetable soup, drink and plate of the day. 

Pattaya Thai – €/€€

As an (admittedly snobby) Australian, I never thought I’d be recommending a Thai restaurant — the only Thai restaurant — in a small, regional city in Portugal. But here we are. I was feeling slightly unwell one morning so I was craving the comfort only noodles can provide. With great reviews and an €8 lunch menu, I felt the need to try it. Pattaya Thai was genuinely really good! I ordered the pad see ew, a favourite of mine and dish of the day, and the flavours were spot on.

Manuel Natário – €

A doughnut with a cult following, that’s Manuel Natário. Each day at 11.30am and 4.30pm piping hot bolas de berlim arrive hot at the counters of this small vintage bakery. I think it’s one of my favourite sweets shops or bakeries in Portugal. You can go inside and sit in the stunning retro interiors, which would have been top class at the time. 

On my final day I slipped into the café (a separate door!) at around 6.30pm and received one of the last hot doughnuts to my table. Sure, how good could it be, I thought. Really. Bloody. Good. The hot bola de berlim is dusted in cinnamon sugar, something I’ve not seen elsewhere in Portugal, and the egg custard filling has a more natural tone than most of those you can buy on the beach.

But Manuel Natário is also more than doughnuts. This full-service bakery has super friendly staff and strong Portuguese-style coffee. I enjoyed breakfast here twice. Ham and cheese wedged in bread or pastry is a common breakfast in Portugal, and here they have a meat slicer to cut the ham fresh each day, and they slice the cheese by hand. Order it in bread or as the locals do — in a sweet brioche croissant that also has the egg custard filling. 

Read next: 15 best things to do in Viana do Castelo

Other places to eat in Viana do Castelo

I try to keep it real here and only write in-depth about the places I’ve personally visited myself. I wish I could have eaten at every restaurant in Viana do Castelo, but I only have one stomach and a limited food budget. Rather than waste my food research, here are my notes with other spots you could try. 

Places to eat in Viana do Castelo downtown

Places to eat in the wider Viana do Castelo region

Is Viana do Castelo worth a visit?

Absolutely! It’s one of the prettiest and unique towns in Portugal. Discover more than a dozen things to do in Viana do Castelo with my travel guide.

That’s my list of the best places to eat and drink in Viana do Castelo. Leave a comment with your favourite spot, or if you try any of these places!

Keep reading…

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Where to eat in Coimbra https://oladaniela.com/where-to-eat-coimbra-best-restaurants/ https://oladaniela.com/where-to-eat-coimbra-best-restaurants/#respond Tue, 07 Mar 2023 10:14:38 +0000 http://oladaniela.com/?p=9225 At the centre of Central Portugal lies Coimbra, an ancient city with a young student heart. The food scene in Coimbra covers it all, from fine dining and chic restaurants to rooftop bars and late-night kebab shops. There are half a dozen must-try regional sweets, plus hearty local specialities like chanfana (rich goat stew) and […]

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At the centre of Central Portugal lies Coimbra, an ancient city with a young student heart. The food scene in Coimbra covers it all, from fine dining and chic restaurants to rooftop bars and late-night kebab shops. There are half a dozen must-try regional sweets, plus hearty local specialities like chanfana (rich goat stew) and Bairrada-style leitão (roast suckling pig).

Here’s my pick of restaurants and where to eat and drink in Coimbra.

Where to eat in Coimbra


Zé Manel dos Ossos €

Ossos. Bones. The specialty of the house. When you order this dish you receive a small silver tray loaded high with the spine bones of a pig that have been simmered and stewed in a peppery broth. Delicious? Absolutely. But that’s just to start.

At this tiny six-table true tasca it’s also essential to order wild boar. Ask for a half dose of the feijoada de javali (bean stew with boar) or oven-baked boar and a jug of white or red wine. This place isn’t a secret and has very few tables, so arrive early and be nice to Mario, your host. Be early or be prepared to wait for the next sitting – like we had to. Cash only.

Address: Beco do Forno 10 122, 3000-192 Coimbra
Facebook

Refeitro da Baixa €€

The best date night restaurant in Coimbra must be Refeitro da Baixa. Slightly more upmarket, this gorgeous little restaurant shares the space with the last ceramic factory in Coimbra (which has apparently been open since 1824).

Our table was next to a roaring fireplace and beneath the giant flue of the former kiln. We could see right into the workshop through big glass windows. Finally, a restaurant that combines my two loves – artisanal ceramics and food! Food-wise, the tuna ceviche might be the best and most interesting I’ve tried in Portugal, and the confit bacalhau (salted cod) was a perfect modern take on bacalhau com o grão-de-bico (salted cod with chickpeas). Pair with a local wine from Bairrada, of course.

Address: Quintal do Prior, Terreiro Erva Nºs 2 a 4, 3000-339 Coimbra
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A Cozinha da Maria €€

The best chanfana (goat stew) I’ve ever eaten is at this small restaurant in downtown Coimbra. The waiter ran over with huge oven mitts grasping a bubbling terracotta pot loaded with our dark, rich goat stew. Once we stuffed ourselves silly on the generous portion of meat, we wanted to bottle up the remaining broth and flavour our lives with it. The alheira (smoked brid sausage) croquettes and vegetarian mushroom risotto were also great, and the staff were super kind.

Address: Praça do Comércio 110, 3000-116 Coimbra
Facebook

Read next: 36 hours in Coimbra

Doppo €

Doppo is a double threat, peddling both the best specialty coffee AND artisan Italian gelato in Coimbra. We stopped for a great (and cheap, compared to Lisbon) flat white and returned later in the afternoon to try classic and fun gelato flavours. I had the chocolate, fig and almond gelato, and Jorge tried the banoffee rum. Excellent texture and consistency.

Address: Praça do Comércio 9, 3000-116 Coimbra
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More top restaurants, tascas and bars to try in Coimbra

I can’t eat everywhere, but it’s on my list. Here’s where else I’d love to eat at in Coimbra:

  • Arcadas: Coimbra’s top fine-dining restaurant
  • O Palco: Kilometre-zero that opened early 2023 
  • Solar do Bacalhau: This is a Coimbra institution with high-quality, low-price salted cod
  • Sete: modern Portuguese food
  • Praxis: local craft beer brewhouse and pub
  • Cordel Maneirista: Chic spot with views from the opposite side of the river
  • O Mimo: a cheap, traditional tasca (tavern)
  • Tapas nas Costas: petiscos and drinks
  • Fangas Veg: Vegetarian and vegan petiscos in Coimbra

Where to drink with a view in Coimbra

Loggia

For brilliant views over Coimbra as the sun sets, venture to this little cafe for a beer or drink. Loggia is set on an ultra-modern terrace within the former Bishop’s Palace and the Machado de Castro Museum. Alternatively, grab a takeaway beer from a small bar and join the students at the miradouro viewpoint next door.

Address: Largo Dr. José Rodrigues, 3000-236 Coimbra
Website

Passaporte

Another killer spot for drinks with a view in Coimbra, Passaporte’s location is unbeatable. This very cool ‘lounge bar” is set in a historic manor where sunset drinks can turn into a special dinner date.

Address: Largo Dr. José Rodrigues, 3000-236 Coimbra
Website

Related Blog: Tile of the day: Step inside Capela de São Miguel in Coimbra

Sweets and desserts in Coimbra

Every single town in Portugal seems to have a local sweet and they always relate back to the church. Coimbra is filled with ancient convents and monasteries, and – surprise, surprise – there are half a dozen traditional confections to try, some whose recipes date back hundreds of years.

  • Pastéis de Santa Clara 
  • Arrufadas
  • Pudim das Clarissas
  • Crúzios
  • Bolo de Santo António
  • Biscoitos Académicos

In the city you can also find pastries from the greater Coimbra egion, including:

  • Pastéis and queijadas from Tentúgal
  • Nevadas de Penacova
  • Queijadas de Pereira

Cafe Santa Cruz

Legend has it that this cafe, located next to the namesake monastery, opened in 1530 as the “church of the poor” so patrons didn’t bother the monks or aristocracy. After the 1822 revolution, the smaller building wasn’t needed and so it became a cafe. This all said, Café Santa Cruz only officially opened in 1923 and has since been a meeting point for writers, journalists and literary types.

The space feels distinctly medieval inside with vaulted ceilings and dark wood features. Drop by for a bica (espresso) inside or on the terrace, and return for Fado later on. Here you can try the Crúzios sweet.

Address: Praça 8 de Maio, 3000-300 Coimbra
Website

Pasteleria Briosa

Where to eat local sweets in Coimbra? Briosa! This bakery has served the population of Coimbra since 1955. Order a Pastel Tentúgal, Queijada Coimbra, Pastel de Santa Clara or Suspiro Briosa to taste some of the award-winning sweets.

Address: Largo da Portagem, 3000-201 Coimbra
Website

That’s my guide on where to eat and drink in Coimbra. If you have more suggestions, leave me a comment below… 

And… if you want that late-night kebab you’ll find half-a-dozen spots along Avenida Sá da Bandeira.

More Coimbra: 36 hours in Coimbra and inside Capela de São Miguel

Where to stay in Coimbra

Keep reading…

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Where to eat in Guimarães: the best restaurants and taverns https://oladaniela.com/where-to-eat-best-restaurants-guimaraes/ https://oladaniela.com/where-to-eat-best-restaurants-guimaraes/#respond Mon, 27 Feb 2023 17:00:07 +0000 http://oladaniela.com/?p=9119 When it comes to where to eat in medieval Guimarães, the answer feels like it should be snacks at a tavern, a homely bistro or an old-man bar. This surprising smaller Portuguese city serves up all three, along with a few dining gems, from a chic French-inspired bistro to a Michelin-starred diner. Eating out in […]

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When it comes to where to eat in medieval Guimarães, the answer feels like it should be snacks at a tavern, a homely bistro or an old-man bar. This surprising smaller Portuguese city serves up all three, along with a few dining gems, from a chic French-inspired bistro to a Michelin-starred diner.

Eating out in the north of Portugal is always a joy. Up north the traditional Portuguese cuisine is heartier and heavier, and you’ll taste the best enchidos (smoked sausages) of your life. Surrounded by valleys and mountains, and in close proximity to the coast, you’re guaranteed to eat well in Guimarães.

Make sure you order a glass of vinho verde with each meal. While you can find this fresh, zesty and slightly effervescent white wine across the country, it’s only up here in the Minho region that it’s common to find a red (or vinho verde tinto). It’s served in small, white porcelain bowls, which makes the experience all the more fun. Just watch out for sediment and purple-red teeth.

From Michelin-stars to five-star sweets, read on to discover my guide to restaurants, bars, cafes and where to eat in Guimarães.

Read next: Weekend guide to Guimarães


Taberna Trovador €

There’s nothing I love more than snacks. At Taberna Trovador the menu is based around petiscos (small plates) so you can order widely, sample lots and pay little. My favourite dishes were the rojões, a dish from the north that is pork with cumin and other spices, and cordoniz (fried quail). Since we’re in the heart of Vinho Verde country, we opted for a bottle of local vinho verde tinto da casa (red wine from the vinho verde region), served in little bowls. I would recommend booking a table for this tiny tavern to avoid disappointment.

📍 Address: Largo do Trovador 10, 4810-451 Guimarães,
🍴 What to order: vinho verde tinto da casa and whatever takes your fancy
🗓 Reservations: By phone, recommended

Tasquinha do Tio Julio €

The doors at Tasquinha do Tio Julio have been open since 1981. Drop in for a fino (small beer), caldo verde (cabbage soup) and prego (steak sandwich). Apparently there are no opening hours, but Tio Julio is almost always there to welcome you. On a sunny day, there are no better seats than the ones scattered outdoors in the small square.

📍 Address: R. de Couros 20, 4810-225 Guimarães
🍴 What to order: beer, caldo verde and and prego (steak sandwich)
🗓 Reservations: No

A Cozinha €€€

It had been a long time since I stepped into a fine dining spot, and chef Antonio Loureiro reminded me about what a joy they can be. A Cozinha is a neat little Michelin one-star restaurant tucked in the old town. Loureiro pays respect to Portuguese flavours, using local and seasonal produce. Being a smaller destination, this is one of Portugal’s more affordable Michelin dining experiences. Definitely get the wine pairing.

📍 Address: Largo do Serralho 4, 4800-472 Guimarães
🍴 What to order: tasting menu, with wine pairing
🗓 Reservations: Online, recommended

Le Babachris €€

This little slice of Paris in Guimarães offers a great value three-course lunch menu. French chef Christian Rullán changes up the menu every couple of weeks and the standard is high, consistently earning Le Babachris a spot in the Michelin guide.

📍 Address: Largo Condessa do Juncal 19, 4800-159 Guimarães
🍴 What to order: Menu changes with the seasons
🗓 Reservations: Online, recommended

Read next… 48 hours in Guimarães

Adega do Ermitão €

Unique is the word to describe Adega de Ermitão. Set within the forest park of Monte da Penha, the giant rock boulders shape this canteen. In the kitchen is a family affair with the senior matriarch creating flatbreads and managing the wood-fired oven, set in a rock under a tent structure. Order flat bread and fried sardines, really excellent rissois (savoury pastries) and pork ribs. To order wine, you have to visit the bar, tucked in a different cave between a couple of boulders. Bring cash.

📍 Address: Largo Condessa do Juncal 19, 4800-159 Guimarães
🍴 What to order: flat bread and fried sardines, rissois (savoury pastries) and pork ribs
🗓 Reservations: No, and if the weather is bad it won’t be open. Cash only.

Tasca Expresso €

For a unique spot to snack, step back in time at Tasca Expresso. Here antiques hang from the ceiling of this rustic bar. Senhor Clemente the owner pours white or red wines from the local vinho verde region into bowls. Knock a couple back with homemade bread and smoked meats or cheeses.

📍 Address: Largo da República do Brasil 34, 4810-225 Guimarães
🍴 What to order: vinho verde tinto!
🗓 Reservations: No.

Casa Costinhas €

Eat a Torta de Guimarães at Casa Costinhas

Every town in Portugal is proud of its doces conventuais (convent sweets). Essentially, it seems the nuns had access to sugar, leftover egg yolks and ingredients like cinnamon, lemon and almonds. With that and some imagination, each village, town and region has celebrated local sweets with an eggy side. In Guimarães we have Toucinho do Céu and Torta de Guimarães. I prefer the latter, a crunchy slightly savoury half-moon pastry with buttery layers and a stringy, rich egg and almond centre. Turns out the savoury note isn’t butter, but pork fat. Vegetarians – you’ve been warned.

The best place to try both sweets is at the original Casa Costinhas. Legend has it that a nun from the Convent of Santa Clara took in two orphan nieces. The establishment of the Republic meant they were no longer allowed to live in the convent with their aunt. So they found a house close to the convent and the three women started baking sweets to make a living.

📍 Address: R. de Santa Maria N° 68, 4800-043 Guimarães
🍴 What to order: Toucinho do Céu, Torta de Guimarães and coffee!
🗓 Reservations: No.

Read next: Devil on the loose: 7 traditional pagan carnivals to attend in Portugal

Bonus: Mercado Guimarães

I always visit the mercado municipal when travelling throughout Portugal. It’s a chance to pick up locally-grown produce, discover regional products and spy on cute old ladies. The Guimarães market hall was actually incredible – full with vendors selling fruit and vegetables, meat, fish, baskets, flowers and more.

What I found most interesting were the temporary vendors – as it was Feira day. In the giant enclosed balcony off the market people didn’t have stalls, just a couple of metres of floor space and a few buckets of goods. You know the food miles are low when you’re buying seasonal plums off a lady who only has half a dozen cabbages, a bucket of lemons and some fresh flowers to sell. It takes farm-to-table to a whole other level.

More restaurants to try in Guimarães

MÁ VONTADE cantina – modern Portuguese spot
Norma – has the Michelin Bib Gourmand stamp for quality, good-value cooking
São Gião – for game meat or fish
O Talento – for cabrito (goat)
Outeiro – traditional cuisine
Restaurante 34 – chic Asian fusion

For coffee, simply choose somewhere on one of the central squares and enjoy the atmosphere.


Where to stay in Guimarães

Is there anywhere else I should eat and drink in Guimarães next time I visit? Let me know in the comments….

Read next… 

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